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I understand that part but would I just take a center punch and a hammer and hit directly on the top of the bolt? Maybe I am just over thinking it but I feel like if it seized up in that non-threaded part it is going to take a lot of force to punch that out.
So I finished my finals and have the next couple weeks devoted to these bolts. If I can’t get them out by then I’ll just replace the caliper and pads. It took me longer to buy a breaker bar then it did to break it, and propane is definitely not hot enough to make much of a difference. I went to the salvage yard and got some spare bolts for when I get the others out, of course they came out easier then pie. I also got this Freeze off stuff so maybe that will help. I’m also going to try Deep Creep.
Can someone explain why an extractor wouldn’t work? Or at least just drilling the bolt out.
Also I am confused on what you guys mean by using a hammer and punch to smack the bracket/rotor off.
Thanks for any help
So I finished my finals and have the next couple weeks devoted to these bolts. If I can’t get them out by then I’ll just replace the caliper and pads. It took me longer to buy a breaker bar then it did to break it, and propane is definitely not hot enough to make much of a difference. I went to the salvage yard and got some spare bolts for when I get the others out, of course they came out easier then pie. I also got this Freeze off stuff so maybe that will help. I’m also going to try Deep Creep.
Can someone explain why an extractor wouldn’t work? Or at least just drilling the bolt out.
Also I am confused on what you guys mean by using a hammer and punch to smack the bracket/rotor off.
Thanks for any help
:blink: I have driven over 5,000 miles with this broken fastener… When I broke two ratchets on them I had spent 3 hours beating on those bolts. Having said that I would still like to do this job right and replace those rotors. So if I understand what Fopeano said, those caliper bracket bolts are threaded only where the bracket is, so I would not have to rethread anything, considering I would replace the bracket. So lets say I can get the whole assembly of hub, rotor, and bracket off I would still need to remove the bolts to get the core back right?
Besides changing a brake line and the belts my experience is null. I am hoping to be able to do this myself, and with limited tool access. Think a breaker bar would give me a better chance to get the remaining bolts off?
Also, have you guys heard of heating the bolt area up then spraying penetrating fluid around the head in an attempt to get the heat to suck the liquid through? Heard it was effective with rusty bolts.
:blink: I have driven over 5,000 miles with this broken fastener… When I broke two ratchets on them I had spent 3 hours beating on those bolts. Having said that I would still like to do this job right and replace those rotors. So if I understand what Fopeano said, those caliper bracket bolts are threaded only where the bracket is, so I would not have to rethread anything, considering I would replace the bracket. So lets say I can get the whole assembly of hub, rotor, and bracket off I would still need to remove the bolts to get the core back right?
Besides changing a brake line and the belts my experience is null. I am hoping to be able to do this myself, and with limited tool access. Think a breaker bar would give me a better chance to get the remaining bolts off?
Also, have you guys heard of heating the bolt area up then spraying penetrating fluid around the head in an attempt to get the heat to suck the liquid through? Heard it was effective with rusty bolts.
I guess the question I should be asking then is it even worth it? I could just replace the pads and the caliper. My brakes are in working condition but with all that rust I cant be sure on how long. The rotors don’t have unusual wear on them besides that inner ring of rust so if I can avoid the daunting task of removing those bolts I will.
Thanks for the suggestions.I guess the question I should be asking then is it even worth it? I could just replace the pads and the caliper. My brakes are in working condition but with all that rust I cant be sure on how long. The rotors don’t have unusual wear on them besides that inner ring of rust so if I can avoid the daunting task of removing those bolts I will.
Thanks for the suggestions.Thanks for the reply,
I think I might be confused by when you say beat the bolt through after I remover the rotor and caliper bracket. The caliper bracket is bolted over the rotor to the knuckle, so I have to get those bolts out first. Since that seems to be the case I don’t see how I could punch them out. At 2:59 in the video dtidman posted below they take em off before getting the rotor off. Also if I was able to punch the bolts through, wouldn’t I ruin the threads on the knuckle and have to tap the holes. Am I missing something or is this a bigger mess then I thought?
Thanks for the reply,
I think I might be confused by when you say beat the bolt through after I remover the rotor and caliper bracket. The caliper bracket is bolted over the rotor to the knuckle, so I have to get those bolts out first. Since that seems to be the case I don’t see how I could punch them out. At 2:59 in the video dtidman posted below they take em off before getting the rotor off. Also if I was able to punch the bolts through, wouldn’t I ruin the threads on the knuckle and have to tap the holes. Am I missing something or is this a bigger mess then I thought?
