[Goldie]

Thanks sunset, yes that is what i deduced after finally getting to the other side and duplicating the problem but on the other side i also had to shim out the caliper to match the washer bump out on the rotor.
I also tested the old rotor on the new bearing on the other side and it spun free. I am going to contact R0ck Aut0 and see what they say, the rotors where a manufacturer closeout special low price item.
Figuring it is the inside height dimension of the top hat as someone else said or maybe the 2nd lip as i talked about earlier

[Goldie]

Thanks sunset, yes that is what i deduced after finally getting to the other side and duplicating the problem but on the other side i also had to shim out the caliper to match the washer bump out on the rotor.
I also tested the old rotor on the new bearing on the other side and it spun free. I am going to contact R0ck Aut0 and see what they say, the rotors where a manufacturer closeout special low price item.
Figuring it is the inside height dimension of the top hat as someone else said or maybe the 2nd lip as i talked about earlier

[Goldie]

When I do the other side i am going to do more intense measuring and examination to see what is up. The one suspect now is the double lip on the under side of the rim, it is a single lip on the old rotor but looks like it might have been double before severe corrosion. I put a picture on here t oshow what i am talking about.

Attachments:

• Rotor.jpg

[Goldie]

When I do the other side i am going to do more intense measuring and examination to see what is up. The one suspect now is the double lip on the under side of the rim, it is a single lip on the old rotor but looks like it might have been double before severe corrosion. I put a picture on here t oshow what i am talking about.

Attachments:

• Rotor.jpg

[Goldie]

I will take a look at the shoes more closely, No hammering required.
Also I have not used the parking brake in years and kind of afraid to now as I fear it might stick, I just don’t have the need to park on hills round these parts.

[Goldie]

I will take a look at the shoes more closely, No hammering required.
Also I have not used the parking brake in years and kind of afraid to now as I fear it might stick, I just don’t have the need to park on hills round these parts.

[Goldie]

Oh sorry I forgot to mention, the parking brake is the completely separate from the caliper system type… with big shoes that push on the inside of disc rotor (kind of)bell shape and here is an illustration to better illustrate WTH I am talking about. almost done getting the other side off so i will compare and try all combos of parts…i bought 2 bearings both sold as “SKF – private label” both came in NAPA boxs, one of the 2 was unmarked made in China, the other was a NTN…which is true Honda OE(NTN is Honda’s “child” bearing company like Toyota’s is Koyo) I put the SKF(unmarked) one on.

Attachments:

• rotor.jpg

[Goldie]

Oh sorry I forgot to mention, the parking brake is the completely separate from the caliper system type… with big shoes that push on the inside of disc rotor (kind of)bell shape and here is an illustration to better illustrate WTH I am talking about. almost done getting the other side off so i will compare and try all combos of parts…i bought 2 bearings both sold as “SKF – private label” both came in NAPA boxs, one of the 2 was unmarked made in China, the other was a NTN…which is true Honda OE(NTN is Honda’s “child” bearing company like Toyota’s is Koyo) I put the SKF(unmarked) one on.

Attachments:

• rotor.jpg

[Goldie]

If you remove the rotor does the hub spin free? YES
did you line up the rotor correctly? YES
is this the hub and bearing assembly? The hub and bearing spin fine, that is until the rotor is put on
[i]
I actually got it to work by putting washers between the hub and rotor but i wonder if this will cause other issues[/i]

[Goldie]

If you remove the rotor does the hub spin free? YES
did you line up the rotor correctly? YES
is this the hub and bearing assembly? The hub and bearing spin fine, that is until the rotor is put on
[i]
I actually got it to work by putting washers between the hub and rotor but i wonder if this will cause other issues[/i]

[Goldie]

Are you trying to say that the wheel will not spin? YES

I would make sure the rotor is the correct one for your vehicle. Did you match it up to your old one before install? It lines up, I measured old vs new and compared to specs only difference is there is a 2nd lip on the inside that is not present on the old rotor, that may be be snugging against parking break guts

Do you have the same issue if you install your old rotor? [b]nope
[/b]
And no you do not really need to secure the rotor by those screws. I know but it seemed to help align the rotor centrically otherwise i got rub against the parking break pads

My next question is did you kink the flexible brake hose for the caliper? Did you install the pads correctly? All i did for the pads(in terms of fluid) was I popped the cap off the Master before i compressed the caliper cylinder enough to get it open enough to accept the new width. I plan to do a full 4 wheel fluid flush after i get the car road worthy…other rear wheel needs a bearing in a bad way and i am drilling out a lug nut that a belle tire guy spun but that’s another story.

Update: I put 5 identical washers on the studs between the bearing hub and rotor and now the wheel spins freely.

So my questions are now if this will cause any other issues?…there is a air gap now where the components would normally be flush together

[Goldie]

Are you trying to say that the wheel will not spin? YES

I would make sure the rotor is the correct one for your vehicle. Did you match it up to your old one before install? It lines up, I measured old vs new and compared to specs only difference is there is a 2nd lip on the inside that is not present on the old rotor, that may be be snugging against parking break guts

Do you have the same issue if you install your old rotor? [b]nope
[/b]
And no you do not really need to secure the rotor by those screws. I know but it seemed to help align the rotor centrically otherwise i got rub against the parking break pads

My next question is did you kink the flexible brake hose for the caliper? Did you install the pads correctly? All i did for the pads(in terms of fluid) was I popped the cap off the Master before i compressed the caliper cylinder enough to get it open enough to accept the new width. I plan to do a full 4 wheel fluid flush after i get the car road worthy…other rear wheel needs a bearing in a bad way and i am drilling out a lug nut that a belle tire guy spun but that’s another story.

Update: I put 5 identical washers on the studs between the bearing hub and rotor and now the wheel spins freely.

So my questions are now if this will cause any other issues?…there is a air gap now where the components would normally be flush together

[Author]

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