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I’m not sure if the non turbo blocks have the bolt on the side of the block that is removable to check to make sure the balance shaft is in phase. You can remove this bolt to allow a phillips head screw driver to enter into the block. If you can get the screw driver in all the way, then the weighted part of the balance shaft is in the proper position. If the screw driver runs into the balance shaft causing the screw driver to not go in all the way, the balance shaft needs to be rotated. When the screw driver goes in all the way and the timing mark is lined up, then you’re good.
also, the non turbo blocks don’t have oil squirters that the turbo blocks have and the threads and aren’t tapped for them to be installed. Compression is also higher since the motor was naturally aspirated. Just some things to think about if you are trying to build a high horse motor.
I’m not sure which engine you are working on. If it is a turbo DOHC 2.0L 4G63 or the non turbo version (NOT the chrysler engine) I can help you out since I have done more than a few of these. Great advice by HondaTechJoe. If it is one of the motors I previously mentioned, there is a little trick to aligning the cam gears when placing the belt back onto the cam gears. Marking the belt and cam gears is important because one of the cam gears will rotate slightly once you take off the belt due to the cam lobes. Since you are doing a headgasket job, you need to have the head checked for warpage. The machine shop will also steam clean the head. If you used a paint marker, your timing marks will get steamed off the cam gears. So you may want to remove the cam gears before sending it off….or mark them by lightly scoring the teeth. Just make sure you don’t score the gears where the the belt rides because it could get torn. When you put the new belt on, you will have to use a wrench to move that cam gear to its proper position. I used to use the 1 inch paper clips (not regular paper clips, but the black clamps with the metal arms that swing out…sorry can’t remember what they are called). Once the cam gears are lined up and you slip the belt on, clamp the belt on with these. Use one each on the outer side of each cam gear to keep the belt from popping off the cam gear. You will be dealing with a hydrolic tensioner. BUY A NEW ONE!! The tensioner pulley is extremely important to get right. The pulley is actually going to keep most of the tension correct. The hydrolic tensioner works with the pulley, but will not tension the belt by itselt. DON’T pull the grenade pin on the tensioner until you make sure you have the correct tension on the belt by way of the pulley. Hope this helps.
-Jason
Correct me if I’m wrong Eric…..Find out the firing order of the engine cylinders. On my civic, I believe it was 1,3,4,2. Set cyl 1 at TDC. Then rotate cam 90 degrees and do cyl 3. Rotate another 90 and do cyl 4. Then another 90 and do cyl 2. Thats how my honda manual had me do it. I assume this would work universally because they are 4 stroke engines.