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What I understand from your post is that you have not been able to remove the starter because you can’t disconnect the positive feed wire.
One Idea I have is that if you have enough play in the wire cut it as close to the starter as you can and remove the starter. O Then put a new end on the wire when you install the new starter which won’t have a loose stud. If its too short it would still probably be easier on you with the broken hand to cut the wire to remove the starter and get a new one. If there is enough room maybe even just disconnecting the wire at the battery and removing the whole wire with the starter.What I understand from your post is that you have not been able to remove the starter because you can’t disconnect the positive feed wire.
One Idea I have is that if you have enough play in the wire cut it as close to the starter as you can and remove the starter. O Then put a new end on the wire when you install the new starter which won’t have a loose stud. If its too short it would still probably be easier on you with the broken hand to cut the wire to remove the starter and get a new one. If there is enough room maybe even just disconnecting the wire at the battery and removing the whole wire with the starter.[quote=”PanicMechanic” post=117967]No.
Firstly, I am not an imbecile, who can’t understand what dirty fuel influence on and what it does not.
Secondly, the service intervals for oil and all filters change are halved by the recommendation of the manufacturers. But, car dealers abused that recommendation to halve all the service intervals in order to earn more money.
Thirdly, it is not a theory, it is a fact.[/quote]
I guess you told me. Good luck to you.
[quote=”PanicMechanic” post=117967]No.
Firstly, I am not an imbecile, who can’t understand what dirty fuel influence on and what it does not.
Secondly, the service intervals for oil and all filters change are halved by the recommendation of the manufacturers. But, car dealers abused that recommendation to halve all the service intervals in order to earn more money.
Thirdly, it is not a theory, it is a fact.[/quote]
I guess you told me. Good luck to you.
Well as for your theory on why times are halved the timing belt should never be in contact with oils etc so the theory would not apply. The belt should be always dry if there is oil on it or in the area around it which should also be dry, you should probably replace it and try to find/fix that leak.
Here is a link to the parts, I’m sure you can find them on your own as well.
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump/dacia-sandero-1-4-75hp_v27576_g3096.htmlIf it becomes necessary to do it I encourage you to try to do it yourself. Never having done one I did on my small 4cyl truck and it was a great experience and also saved me over $1000 US when it came time to replace a blown head because of the confidence to do it myself I gained from that and another big job on a different truck. You can find info online from manuals and here on how to do it.
If you can trust that your mechanic whatever they charge is doing the job right then you have it better than most as usually we have to trust, hope and pay until we find out if the advice and work is good.Timing belts work fine for long stretches of miles or time (mine was 30 years old) all the time and timing chains do need to be changed because they stretch and brake as well as jump teeth. With the belt the auto tensioner takes up the stretch as it happens so that in theory the timing should never change over its lifetime.
Well as for your theory on why times are halved the timing belt should never be in contact with oils etc so the theory would not apply. The belt should be always dry if there is oil on it or in the area around it which should also be dry, you should probably replace it and try to find/fix that leak.
Here is a link to the parts, I’m sure you can find them on your own as well.
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/timing-belt-kit-with-water-pump/dacia-sandero-1-4-75hp_v27576_g3096.htmlIf it becomes necessary to do it I encourage you to try to do it yourself. Never having done one I did on my small 4cyl truck and it was a great experience and also saved me over $1000 US when it came time to replace a blown head because of the confidence to do it myself I gained from that and another big job on a different truck. You can find info online from manuals and here on how to do it.
If you can trust that your mechanic whatever they charge is doing the job right then you have it better than most as usually we have to trust, hope and pay until we find out if the advice and work is good.Timing belts work fine for long stretches of miles or time (mine was 30 years old) all the time and timing chains do need to be changed because they stretch and brake as well as jump teeth. With the belt the auto tensioner takes up the stretch as it happens so that in theory the timing should never change over its lifetime.
Rad came in and I had to cut the bottom turn off the existing hose from the WP to the bottom of rad but otherwise fit exactly. In fact it has two connections for engine oil cooling or tranny cooling if I want to hook that up. I drained that quart of oil I had put in and even jacked it up on one side to get as much out as possible before I put the 4 new quarts in.
It started up with a jumper and some carb cleaner as start fluid. Just because it happened to me once, I’ll mention that belt dressing will work for start fluid in a pinch too. It threw a bunch of water out the tail pipe and made valve or lifter noises for a while. I have driven it 35 miles (10 hwy) or so and it is quiet. I do not know if the timing is dead on but it idles nicely.
Weirdly IMO it only took one gallon to fill the rad and a half gallon after I started it. In fact once the thermostat opened and some bubbles ran out several times, it was pushing water out (It looks dirty) with no bubbles for around 5 minutes when I decided to put the cap on. During this time if I revved it the water level dropped but came right back up when I let off the throttle. Temp was at halfway on the temp gauge (new sensor) while filling and when I drove it went down to about 1/3. The heater worked pretty good considering I haven’t been able to find a shroud for this thing yet. Apparently it came with a two piece metal shroud. (maybe there isn’t a direct relationship here?)
How do you drain an entire system so that all the dirty coolant is removed? I figure I’ll put a hundred miles on the oil and run some flush through and change it as long as it has no problems.Rad came in and I had to cut the bottom turn off the existing hose from the WP to the bottom of rad but otherwise fit exactly. In fact it has two connections for engine oil cooling or tranny cooling if I want to hook that up. I drained that quart of oil I had put in and even jacked it up on one side to get as much out as possible before I put the 4 new quarts in.
It started up with a jumper and some carb cleaner as start fluid. Just because it happened to me once, I’ll mention that belt dressing will work for start fluid in a pinch too. It threw a bunch of water out the tail pipe and made valve or lifter noises for a while. I have driven it 35 miles (10 hwy) or so and it is quiet. I do not know if the timing is dead on but it idles nicely.
Weirdly IMO it only took one gallon to fill the rad and a half gallon after I started it. In fact once the thermostat opened and some bubbles ran out several times, it was pushing water out (It looks dirty) with no bubbles for around 5 minutes when I decided to put the cap on. During this time if I revved it the water level dropped but came right back up when I let off the throttle. Temp was at halfway on the temp gauge (new sensor) while filling and when I drove it went down to about 1/3. The heater worked pretty good considering I haven’t been able to find a shroud for this thing yet. Apparently it came with a two piece metal shroud. (maybe there isn’t a direct relationship here?)
How do you drain an entire system so that all the dirty coolant is removed? I figure I’ll put a hundred miles on the oil and run some flush through and change it as long as it has no problems.I had to remove the fuel pump as the intake gasket had a gasket for it built in. I have it all back together including the distributor which is sitting dead on the #1 plug. I have not yet put the oil in.
I would recommend to anyone using this post to wait on putting the fuel pump on. You should hook up the hoses to the pump and set it on the bottom of the compartment as the bottom intake bolts are almost impossible to tighten with it in. I did it but its a huge pain.
One of the trades I worked at was welding and waaaay back in 1982 the Army trained me to repair radiators, well I got to try it once. I definitely forgot more than I realised and did more harm than help. I got a new one on order and it should be in on Monday. Hopefully the copper & brass for the OE rad and the heater coil will be worth some money. I also got a another valve cover since I had a crack in the existing one at the PCV valve.
Hopefully Monday afternoon I will be posting how it went when I started it. The shop I went to for the radiator had the spill free funnel but I couldn’t get myself to spend the $40 on it since I have no idea when I might use it again. I’m pretty sure now with the replaced heater and a good water valve it will fill properly.I had to remove the fuel pump as the intake gasket had a gasket for it built in. I have it all back together including the distributor which is sitting dead on the #1 plug. I have not yet put the oil in.
I would recommend to anyone using this post to wait on putting the fuel pump on. You should hook up the hoses to the pump and set it on the bottom of the compartment as the bottom intake bolts are almost impossible to tighten with it in. I did it but its a huge pain.
One of the trades I worked at was welding and waaaay back in 1982 the Army trained me to repair radiators, well I got to try it once. I definitely forgot more than I realised and did more harm than help. I got a new one on order and it should be in on Monday. Hopefully the copper & brass for the OE rad and the heater coil will be worth some money. I also got a another valve cover since I had a crack in the existing one at the PCV valve.
Hopefully Monday afternoon I will be posting how it went when I started it. The shop I went to for the radiator had the spill free funnel but I couldn’t get myself to spend the $40 on it since I have no idea when I might use it again. I’m pretty sure now with the replaced heater and a good water valve it will fill properly.Updating
Today While waiting I tried to solve the heater problem. I discovered the water valve is frozen. I took the heater out and the controls were bad too. Discovered I got ripped off 10 years ago when I paid a shop $275 to clean the heater out*. After much searching and no luck I drove out to the place that as telling me they did not have one. I walked the yard and found one in very good shape. $75 It is installed with new hoses.
* When I took it out it was too rusted up for that shop to have taken it apart and done what they claimed they did and the core was coated in an inch of nest materiel! I expect the line about there being holes in it was to cover themselves for the lack of heat.
Edit
Found this video which shows the distributor install at about 13 minutes. Funny I forgot about it since that was the video that most helped me do the timing and balancer belt on this rig a few months ago. That’s what my motor would look like if I felt like dumping a lot of money this thing but since the body isn’t great I just like to keep it running right.When I did it the round spot on the tines on his was what looked like a center punch mark on one of the tines on mine. I marked it with silver sharpie. I don’t expect to see it again though. Went right in as shwon and the rotor lined up on number one plug in the cap.
Updating
Today While waiting I tried to solve the heater problem. I discovered the water valve is frozen. I took the heater out and the controls were bad too. Discovered I got ripped off 10 years ago when I paid a shop $275 to clean the heater out*. After much searching and no luck I drove out to the place that as telling me they did not have one. I walked the yard and found one in very good shape. $75 It is installed with new hoses.
* When I took it out it was too rusted up for that shop to have taken it apart and done what they claimed they did and the core was coated in an inch of nest materiel! I expect the line about there being holes in it was to cover themselves for the lack of heat.
Edit
Found this video which shows the distributor install at about 13 minutes. Funny I forgot about it since that was the video that most helped me do the timing and balancer belt on this rig a few months ago. That’s what my motor would look like if I felt like dumping a lot of money this thing but since the body isn’t great I just like to keep it running right.When I did it the round spot on the tines on his was what looked like a center punch mark on one of the tines on mine. I marked it with silver sharpie. I don’t expect to see it again though. Went right in as shwon and the rotor lined up on number one plug in the cap.
I rotated the crank mark back to the spot just that little bit and the cam mark lined up as I expected since I moved it to tighten the cam sprocket bolt.
So I’m on delay because suddenly the guy who ordered the intake bolts “Be here Wednesday!” doesn’t know if they will be in today or tomorrow. I’ve put the valve cover, plugs and wires, top timing belt cover back on.Do I need to use RTV on the intake manifold?
Should I rotate the motor fully before I install the intake and Distributor? Yea you have to remove the distributor to get the intake off on this one.
Oh yea there is a long crack in my distributor cap! its only a few months old. It doesn’t go to the metal parts so I can start it with this one but still its a bummer to have to replace new parts so soon.I want to clean the whole distributor but because I am unfamiliar with them I have just set it down as I pulled it out so that nothing moved. How do I set the distributor so its TDC if I were to move it?
I rotated the crank mark back to the spot just that little bit and the cam mark lined up as I expected since I moved it to tighten the cam sprocket bolt.
So I’m on delay because suddenly the guy who ordered the intake bolts “Be here Wednesday!” doesn’t know if they will be in today or tomorrow. I’ve put the valve cover, plugs and wires, top timing belt cover back on.Do I need to use RTV on the intake manifold?
Should I rotate the motor fully before I install the intake and Distributor? Yea you have to remove the distributor to get the intake off on this one.
Oh yea there is a long crack in my distributor cap! its only a few months old. It doesn’t go to the metal parts so I can start it with this one but still its a bummer to have to replace new parts so soon.I want to clean the whole distributor but because I am unfamiliar with them I have just set it down as I pulled it out so that nothing moved. How do I set the distributor so its TDC if I were to move it?