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I had the truck in for a recall and I was told the PS fluid was low. I filled it and the squeak is gone. So it was at least part of the serpentine squeak problem I mentioned in another post I realise as I write this.
I have found the Snap On MODIS will show the status of the injector sync and it actually has a “sync” function for the purpose. Apparently you hook it up and dial the dizzy down to zero out the reading. I don’t have the few thousand dollars necessary to buy one so I am still looking to get it done.
Thanks for the help College.I just spoke to two dealers and an independent mechanic. None of them seem to be aware of or willing tosimply “check the fuel injector synchronisation” in the way described in your link and in other places I have read about this.
IDK why but they seem confused by my desire to have it checked. When we discuss what they will do they just schpeel out the scripted long list of stuff scan tools look at and then say “depending on what we find..:” completely ignoring the “check fuel synchronisation” request that is the reason for scanning. When I point this out they get “confused” again and the one guy started getting attitude that I was pointing out he wasn’t addressing the issue. He also said if there was no check engine light there was no problem.
The other dealer was more helpful but couldn’t actually be specific about anything and contradicted himself. the independent guy said an OBDI wouldn’t have that kind of “data stream” to read.The issue that lead here is; I have had lifter & or valve noise and power loss under load since I bought it. I have fixed it up a lot and it is doing very well but I still get (to a lesser extent now) the lifter & or valve noise and power loss under load. I was thinking it might be the PCM because it improved a bit when I retaped the harness near the PCM and cleaned the contacts. During that search for a new PCM I spoke to a guy at Hughes Engines looking for a rec on where to look, he thought I should check the injector sync to be sure it was correct since I had done the Intake Manifold plenum before getting into PCM replacement.
It makes more sense to eliminate this first, that is how I get to being here and asking about fuel injector synchronisation.Am I off in asking for just that check? Should I be asking for some other more generalised kind of check that includes the injector sync?
Missed my appointment so I never got to ask the dealer. I don’t think I did and well this thing had the lifter or valve noise from before I did all this work.(see prior posts) The idea is that its out of sync comes from a guy that specialises in Magnum motors. I was thinking it needed more, but it seems that eliminating this first is probably the best way to isolate the issue.
I have heard that volt meter method can be 6 degrees off. When I did the intake plenum I stood over the distributor and the mark lined up on between the distributor body, the switch plate, and the rotor. It’s still possible its a tiny bit off. I am going to reschedule the dealer and add ask that they check the sync.
Sorry I forgot.
94 dakota 3.9L magnumEdit
I have learned that Chrysler used a DRB 2 scan tool. I don’t know if any other scan tools can also deal with reading OBDI motors. Apparently you don’t actually change anything with the tool you read it as you adjust something to set the Injector valve synchronization.
I may end up asking the dealer when I go in tomorrow for a steering wheel back cover recall.Thanks. I have already done the Timing chain and added tensioner that took care of the ticking coing from there. I also put in a hughes engines plenum. This is noise that I believe is mainly from the valve train that happens under load or on hills. The stethescope doesn’t show me much in park. I expect I might need to get that thing form Eric’s video so I can drive it around and listen to each head separately.
I’ve been focused on the heads since I owned it and as each repair or improvement was added the ticking keeps making think heads.Drove this morning and the belt chirps when I first put it in gear and when going slow. Is this something I need to check?
The truck felt stuck or like it was struggling at 45mph going up hill and at 50mph on the hwy. I expect some of this is the computer learning how to handle the rebuilt tranny but I’m not sure.
I have driven it about 45 miles since replacing the belt and I noticed when I was going up the big hill while it was cold the noise was more of a ticking (which it has had since I owned it) and it didn’t feel like it was losing a lot of power (was some) and held the speed limit as I pressed the pedal down as it climbed instead of kicking down to go faster or slowing down anyway. .
That’s all good but I would still like to know how to discover the source of the ticking. The motor still feels a bit wrong and like it could be more responsive and tight if I fixed that tick. I think the tranny is fine now but we’ll see if it stays tight.
I cleaned and wiped the pulleys &I replaced the belt. No squeaks at idle.
I got a stethoscope and I honestly do not hear much. There is a valve noise on the drivers side valve cover and the PCV which is only a few months old is very loud without the scope.
It wasn’t making that noise and losing power like I described either though.Edit: I forgot to mention there are no codes and looking down the throttle body the intake is clean and dry.
Torque converter?
My Dakota did this and it would stall when I tried to go just before I brought it in for a rebuild it has been needing and the tranny guy said it was the TC causing it to stall out. .My AC doesn’t work either but the defrost gets warm and I have heat. If putting the relays back in doesn’t get the defrost to warm up I don’t know what to do. Maybe someone else will post a response.
the radiator fan draws air through the radiator to cool the coolant. Some people will partially cover the front of the radiator with cardboard in winter to reduce the effectiveness of the rad making the engine warmer which makes the heat better. That’s what those zip up covers over the front of Big Rigs are for. I do not recommend it since I don’t know your car or you. I suspect you may be having to get to a mechanic if no one else comes on here to offer advice.
My AC doesn’t work either but the defrost gets warm and I have heat. If putting the relays back in doesn’t get the defrost to warm up I don’t know what to do. Maybe someone else will post a response.
the radiator fan draws air through the radiator to cool the coolant. Some people will partially cover the front of the radiator with cardboard in winter to reduce the effectiveness of the rad making the engine warmer which makes the heat better. That’s what those zip up covers over the front of Big Rigs are for. I do not recommend it since I don’t know your car or you. I suspect you may be having to get to a mechanic if no one else comes on here to offer advice.
If by “scraping” you meant clearing off fog or moisture then this applies if you meant ice ???
Here’s the thing if you use the defrost on warm it has to warm the glass and the windows to be close to the same temp as the inside air which gets warmer & moister the longer you are inside the car. If your heater/defrost is weak the side windows will fog. If you can stand the temp inside you want the air intake to be set to take in outside air which is closer to the temp of the glass and will clear it faster.
Don’t know anything about the relays but I am told my defrost works off the AC and my AC don’t make cool air but the defroster does make warm air so?????
Crack a window open a bit if it gets real bad, the problem is the air temp inside is a lot warmer than the glass temp.If the door mechanism is freezing up it may be the lubricant, otherwise I am unsure maybe water is getting inside something.
If by “scraping” you meant clearing off fog or moisture then this applies if you meant ice ???
Here’s the thing if you use the defrost on warm it has to warm the glass and the windows to be close to the same temp as the inside air which gets warmer & moister the longer you are inside the car. If your heater/defrost is weak the side windows will fog. If you can stand the temp inside you want the air intake to be set to take in outside air which is closer to the temp of the glass and will clear it faster.
Don’t know anything about the relays but I am told my defrost works off the AC and my AC don’t make cool air but the defroster does make warm air so?????
Crack a window open a bit if it gets real bad, the problem is the air temp inside is a lot warmer than the glass temp.If the door mechanism is freezing up it may be the lubricant, otherwise I am unsure maybe water is getting inside something.
If you have access and an arc welder stick an electrode to it? Or stick something like another piece of tool steel to it with epoxy or crazy glue? Tips it over and shake it 🙂