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I’m looking at a remanufactured replacement. The folks I have talked to are calling that a “crate motor”. If I have to buy one I just want a stock motor with all the updates and OEM issues fixed. It is basically the block and heads ready to go, I’ll have to put my tranny, intake, etc on it.
I spoke to a guy trying to work out what my compression test meant and if I have tranny issues and he said he just rebuilt a 3,9 2 weeks ago and it was 4K?! I didn’t think to ask what he did. He really wanted me to let this go. That price seems way high. He heard it run after that and later gave me the advice about changing oil and adding Risolone for one of the qrts.
I have found two reman motors so far both delivered to where I want for about 2K and say $1700 after core refund. The other guy whom I am going to have do a leak down test to help me make the decision whether or not to change motors, said he would install it for $650. I assume that means the parts that do not come with it are extra. He made a big deal out of saying he follows the book which later caused me to pause. I want it to run right and these things did not run right OEM.Do you know the specs for when the 94 Dak 42RH auto trans are supposed to shift? I only get how to adjust the bands results when I try to search the specs.
I found this. It was inscrutable to me except I searched Ignition switch in the page and it says that if you have power coming from the fuse box to the switch the switch is very likely the problem. http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=64603.0;wap2
I also found this just answer instruction page for changing it. http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/3ytsv-replace-1998-1999-chevrolet-tahoe-ignition-cylinder.html
There really isn’t much saying how to test one. I suggest you cold call several mechanics and see if any of them will tell you how to isolate it as the problem.Thanks. I’m waiting for a call to let me know if I can get the compression/leakdown done today. I have an appointment with an electrical diagnostics guy who is going to make sure the electrical system is functioning properly.
I think I mentioned earlier that the tranny guy thought the Alt could be bad and said I should try driving with the Pos wire disconnected. I did and it improved how it shifted and had more response at the throttle. It also felt weak going up a hill without trying to accelerate I just held it steady. The Kickdown hesitated but it was still better.
Edit- I spoke to a mechanic and he felt he should just do the Leakdown test to pinpoint the exact type of problem and I will go in next week.Fuses that look good aren’t always good. I’ve had perfectly good looking fuses and replaced them in desperation and it fixed the issue. They don;t always show it when they fail.
Thank You.
I knew a lot of that from experience an dErics videops.
I am hoping I can slow walk the shop into doing the leak down test because these motors apparently had head cracking and gasket issues. I’m hoping against reason that the problem turns out to be the valves or head. If nothing else it running so smoothly and being fairly well maintained until it got parked for most of the 10 years before I bought it might mean that I can just get new rings and maybe a valve job. Fingers crossed.In case I have to rebuild which is better/cheaper, rebuild this one or just get a rebuild motor to install?
Thank You. I only have a small compressor it wouldn’t hold enough pressure and I do not have the gauges necessary. I am going to try to find a shop that will do a proper compression test and then if its similar results ask if they will do the leak down.
Does anyone know if that info I found about the compression for this motor being 100psi is correct? Or am I reading this page wrong? http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/3_9v6.htmI took it to a mechanic. He looked at those readings and told me how badly I was screwed. He had just rebuilt one for a guy 2 weeks ago $4K.
Then I asked him to listen to it. He then said “there is no way this motor has those readings.” He figured I either did it wrong or it was the Harbor Freight gauge I used. He then referred me to a guy who also said the motor was good. Truth be told they only listened to it.
Then I called him to ask if he would do a compression test and he told me it would be a waste of money “I’ll take your money but I think it is a waste”. He said to change the oil and put in one quart of Risolone or Mystery Oil for one of the quarts. He also suggested I look under the valve covers. Then he gave me the name of a tranny guy “Chrysler expert” The tranny guy hooked up a computer and we took a drive and it seems that on the flats at least it is acting normally. He explained how I could do adjustments of the TV cable. We talked about the one side being weaker but he had no ideas of how to determine what was the issue. All that came up was leak down test. He did mention that while driving it felt like a cylinder was not firing right. I’m hoping it has something to do with the injector synchronization. I’ll know Monday afternoon I finally found a guy that will do it..
He also thought that maybe the alt could be going off and sending a bad signal through the system which would cause all the random stuff. I told him about how the battery was swollen when I bought it and how the charger says it is overcharging and he really lit up. He told me to buy a good digital something electronic reader and find out what was running through my system saying it should not be more than 14 volts when running.
I got the oil changed (it was low@ 900 miles short of 3K since last change. The tech said 1qt but I checked earlier and it was halfway up the safe zone with the engine warm. It was hot for several hours when he saw it.) & they told me my rad cap was bad (That’s weird since it was good when I did the timing chain & plenum) and I replaced a turn signal forgetting to get the digital reader. One thing I did during the compression test was to unhook the battery and turn the key for 30 seconds to make it brain dead. Since then it seems a little better. But then it has improved each time I have done something for a little while.
So it may not be such dire news
I will get to trying a leak down or having someone do a leak down. I’d like to know if it is the head or the rings leaking. I suspect the rings may be sticking since the previous owner said it sat a lot for about 10 years.There was a TSB on this http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/24-01-96a.htm
Thank You. The symptoms went away in an hour or so. I expect I splashed something onto my lips.
I made the call because I do not have a vacuum pump or the correct gauge set on the AC system being tight because it had a pretty good amount of pressure when I depressed the Schrader valve. It is still cold and if it changes I’ll go in to have it checked out.I just spoke to an AC guy about testing my system and he says that you should add dye to the system whenever you add refrigerant just to make it simpler to find a leak if one occurs. Of course that means you need to have the 3 hose high side low side connectors and the filler/evac hose to add the dye with. or to go pay a guy to do it. The guy here in western Or was going to charge $70 to evac the system and add R134a refrigerant with dye.
I spoke to an AC guy. He said that was not a known symptom of breathing R134A he ever heard of. So I probably did splash something onto my lips at the car wash.
He also recommended that I add dye to the system and since that will cost $70 I decided to drive it until it shows me symptoms. It still had pressure when I added the refrigerant so maybe it had leaked off naturally via the suspiciously loose looking connectors around the evap canister.Thanks College.
I expect if it is a leak that it must be small the air is still very cold. It’s just possible I splashed myself with something at the car wash and didn’t take notice while I was scrubbing the truck. .Hi,
I did my 3.9 Hughes kit last summer. About 140K miles on the clock. I posted what I thought important here. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/common-problems-pattern-failures/50534-94-02-chrysler-3-9-5-2-5-9-engines-intake-gasketOn the oil change; when I put it back together I drove it a few hundred miles then had the oil changed after running an engine cleaner through it. I had no problems with the radiator and the V8 has more room. I also did the Timing chain and added the tensioner they failed to use when first built.
I had the throttle body and the intake tanked and I have all new sensors on the intake and TB. Whatever is down under the AC on the top front of the motor should be replaced even if it looks good just to avoid having to take it all off again when it does fail. It really improved gas mileage.
Good LuckHere are the instructions for doing what I am calling setting the fuel injector synchronisation with the Dealers DRB scanner.
CHECKING DISTRIBUTOR POSITION
To verify correct distributor rotational position, connect the DRB scan tool to the data link connector. The data link connector is located in the engine compartment. Gain access to the SET SYNC screen on the DRB.
WARNING: WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING TEST, THE ENGINE WILL BE RUNNING. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STAND IN LINE WITH THE FAN BLADES OR FAN BELT. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Follow the directions on the DRB screen and start the engine. With the engine running, the words IN RANGE should appear on the screen along with 0 degrees. This indicates correct distributor position.
If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to the degree number. and/or the degree displayed is not zero, loosen but do not remove the distributor holddown clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor until IN RANGE appears on the screen. Continue to rotate the distributor until achieving as close to 0 degrees as possible. After adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5 Nm (200 in. lbs.) torque.
The degree scale on the SET SYNC screen of the DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is not referring to ignition timing. Because of this, do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this method. Rotating the distributor will have no effect on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM).