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Yea he made no effort to ask me any questions. He did mention injectors and I told him they were new.
What I wrote up was a page and a half but it seems like it should have been right on. Maybe he knew some of the shops I mentioned and didn’t want to have to say they did something wrong? He was real positive and acted right on the phone then he just well, I left knowing less than I thought I did when I drove in. That is never a good sign.I went in at 8:45 for a 9. I gave the guy my write up. He asked if I would leave it. I have no idea even after asking what they are going to do beyond drive it and use the computer to check codes. I asked that they drive it up hills at 25-30mph and take it on the hwy at least 65mph. the Service counter guy would not be any more specific about what they might do and was rather discouraging about whether or not they would figure it out. He was not sure if I would be hearing from him today or not.
bananaspree, Here is a link http://www.serpentinebeltdiagram.com/toyota/toyota-celica/2001-toyota-celicas/
Each one of the 4 choices seems to have a different setup read which one fits your car, click on it and robert’s you fathers brotherI feel for ya brother. If I had the tools….. I have often suspected such shenanigans and it does happen. But unless you can prove it try to let the idea go and find a better place to go. It is a swirling sucking eddy of paranoia and anger when you let that idea drive you especially when you cannot prove it.
Ask around to people you know for good shops. Remember good shops sometimes get bad results or make mistakes but they usually admit to it without you having to ask.They do it because people who do not know the difference pay.
They would also say they are not overcharging and give you a list of things like the overhead for keeping up the shop and minimum charges of at least one hour labor to have a mechanic do it, the insurance and whatever benefits they pay the mechs.
$150 is probably higher than it should be,Hmm. We did the compression test on #2 first. I had changed the oil and added the Risolone last Thursday. The intent of the Risolone was to loosen up any stuck rings. For ten years before I bought it this rig mostly sat only moving out of the garage occasionally for dump runs. The theory for the better reading on #2 is that the Risolone is working.
It doesn’t matter what the guys I have spoken to and let do tests have said, i have written up a page of all that has taken place for the dealer mechanic so that they know what they are dealing with.
He was talking in percentage points on the leak down test something like 15% was min and it met that standard.on #2 and I thing #6 was 14%I yam I yam already. 🙂 I let ya know tomorrow after noon what they say. I’m expecting the worse and hoping for the best.
Only one guy worked on the tranny. The second opinion I got the guy only hooked up his computer and we drove a bit. I did the compression test and the guy today did the leakdown on the two low cylinders and found no leaks. The last mechanic had an MT2500 Solus scanner but he said he could not do the Injector sync with it. Dealers on the TTD list. I will tell them everything I can think of and hope they figure it out.
OK The mechanic took out all the plugs but he only checked the two low cylinders from my compression test, 2 & 6. There was no detectable leaking in any direction! In fact we did a compression check on number 2cyl first and it was 115psi up from 105 when I did it before the oil change with Risoline.
He drove it and well he had nothing much to say. I think he is not sure why it is off. He didn’t have any recommendations for reman and he hated Jasper for sending him a bad motor. He did say was he would send motors to a shop near Portland for reman.
I went to the guy who had a Solus scanner and he hooked it up but said he couldn’t check the Injector Sync. One thing he said as he showed me the O2 reading constantly going back and forth from rich to lean that it meant my O2 sensor was good. I think that reading means something is wrong and I think it is the sync setting. I cannot find any info online describing how to use the Solus or MT2500 to check the Injector Sync which is what the dealer does with the DRBIII.
Still have the electrical guy on Wednesday and both the 1st mechanic and the mechanic with the Solus said he should be able to check the Sync. Fingers crossed. Any specific knowledge on how to use a MT2500 for this and what cartridges I would need would be great.Thanks. I am on it. I wonder though I have had really bad luck in the last decade. The folks around here really buy into the consumer culture scam and do not seem to understand keeping a perfectly good thing working instead of buying new unless they can charge you like its new.
The two places I had found have a lot of do not live up to warranty complaints. Jasper seems to have a bunch of bad reviews as well and they are waaay expensive after the fees they want $3690 before I even see it. No thanks.
It looks to me like the motors are not as well QC’d as the sites selling them like to claim. Most of the complaints I saw were for poor craftsmanship installing gaskets and O rings or obvious defects like cracks in the heads piston rings and bores not properly done causing loss of compression.Then apparently the “small print” comes up. One guy said the shop he bought from brought up overheating in the first phone call he made about the issue he was having before he was done telling them the problem.To be very clear I saw a second tranny guy (referred by the guy I mentioned who did the rebuild for 4k. Both of them said they hate the guy who rebuilt my tranny. The first one told me he could literally do anything.) who hooked up his computer and we went for a drive on the flats up to 55-60 and he said it was doing what it should. This has me wondering if I should try to find the guy who just paid 4K to have his rebuilt so I can ride or drive in his rig to get an idea if what I am seeking is possible in this OEM machine. I may do that before I build even if all signs say to build. If that is the case then this is a project for someone else and the last time I buy an automatic truck. It was the $900 price tag and how straight and rust free it was that got me.
Yea it seems the folks I have learned from may have been conflating “Big” with “Long” and “Short” with “Small” I guess.
I’m on it leak down test coming will get dealer and tell them my issues and concerns. I think I want them to drop the pan and valve body to make sure its been done right. I know one part is the 1-2 accumulator which is plastic OEM and falls out when you remove the valve body. The updated version is aluminum and holds itself in by compression when it is installed.
Great minds. 🙂
That is new info to me. Hmmmm A lot of guys I know were full of it then. Very funny. I was always told by motor heads long/short was an indication of the type/size of motor it was. Very Funny.
Not a long block a 3.9 V6 Magnum.
I had done a lot of work and eliminated the motor. Then took it to a shop who also told me that the motor was fine rebuild the tranny. They sent me to the guy who did it.
The tranny is rebuilt. It is shifting funny. At random times it runs right up to 3rd and seems like it starts in 2nd. It will lose RPM’s randomly which I have been assuming if lockup/OD. The main danger/prob is that it does this when I am accelerating and when I am climbing hills. Just an hour ago I took it out and it would not hold 50 MPH on rolling hills if O got up to 55 and then let off to cruise it was and often does drops RPM’s at 49mph and I have to mash the peddle again. It won’t let me drive smoothly.
I took it back to the tranny guy and he had it over night and said it was the motor. I posted yesterday about the Compression test I did and what the mechanics I consulted had to say.
I’m still dubious about the tranny since what it did earlier is not normal. I have had automatic cars before and they simply do not just drop RPM’s while accelerating. It is dangerous I nearly got hit yesterday when it did it to me on an on ramp merge.
I’m taking the compression test to mean something is off even though there are no codes and it functions pretty good under 40 as long as I am not on a hill. I am having a leak down test done Monday. That will tell me more. IDK if it will confirm anything or not as I do not know how good this mechanic is. I think I need my own DRBIII scantool.
Edit
I think I did a WP when I did the Timing chain and Hughes plenum.