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I understand. I have done a belt and a chain and they are substantially similar. Basically set TDC and don’t move the motor.
I think you suggested you have to pull the motor out of the car to get at the chain. If so the only thing I can think of, you will get other replies if they have more, is to find a Factory Service Manual or whatever BMW calls their service manual.I searched this term on You Tube. “Timing chain replacement BMW N47 engine” It looks like there might be a common problem with these timing chains. Sorry. IDK if Eric has a vid specific to your motor.
UPDATING
Last week I finally got to it and I replaced the entire exhaust from the Manifold back with the Walker Y pipe and a Walker CAT and Walker exhaust kit About $350 all told plus my labor. The quote I got for just a CAT replacement was over $400! The Walker pipes fit well and I had to cut the end of the CAT and weld the reducer they supply since they only give 3 Ubolt clamps. I still needed another U bolt clamp.
Two exhaust manifold studs were broken and I had to drill them out. I posted about that in Repair Central forum.
It runs a lot better. It shifts smoothly and the ticking I thought may be tappets/lifters is gone. The RPMs go up as they should. I’ve reset the fuel Sync to +1 which is as close to zero as I could get and I have new tires. I got 19mpg’s on a 500+ mile road trip.The exhaust leak and clogged CAT seem to have been the source of a lot of my problems. I wish I would have done this before I paid to rebuild the tranny.
It is not perfect, I want more responsiveness and power but now its at least doing what it was designed to do.The best way to check your CAT is a $20-$30 laser temperature gauge. drive it get it hot and then take the temp of the pipe just in front of the CAT and the pipe just behind the CAT. The back should be much hotter. If it is the reverse your CAT is bad and needs to be replaced.
The rest of this stuff aside from taking it off to clean as in ETCG videos are not good ideas and might seriously damage your vehicle.This is a business model that started taking hold in the 80’s.
You are correct it is right to expect that a dealer would have on hand all of the commonly replaced or used up parts for their vehicles and they mostly used to. What happened is that in some places they never sold them and had to carry them and account for them which during the 80;s seemed like just to much of an expense for the “investors” busy stripping US industry for parts. So they rarely have anything on hand that their mechanics do not use right away and order from a central local anything that is needed. Thus they have as few unused parts on the books as possible. It, having to hassle with getting OE parts, also works to discourage people from keeping their car in good repair with OE parts so the dealer can blame any problems on after market parts which will I am sure lead to them eventually telling you its beyond repair and you need to buy a new one. Dealers really really really hate keeping their old vehicles running. It discourages new sales, they think.
It is basically a corporate thing.
Independent guys know that being prepared is a good idea, as well as finding a parts supplier that has a big warehouse and can get things inside 24 hours.
Seems like you should be able to find a good parts source in the Southland.I suppose it all depends on what you mean by “work”.
What you are doing is destroying the ceramic honeycomb that the platinum and other alloys is coating. The OE condition is that the alloys on the ceramic heat up and burn the un-burnt fuel in your exhaust. Over time the honeycomb gets coated with carbon and eventually plugs up the CAT then you replace it. Or you can try cleaning it. Eric has a couple videos on that . YMMV on cleaning it.
You can get away with tapping it lightly to knock carbon off the honeycomb to see if doing so make the motor run better, but to bust it up you have destroyed the thing and eventually it will clog the muffler so you have to spend even more money when that comes up cause there aint no amount of beating on the muffler that will fix that problem.Just dropping by to say I have been busy so I’ve been diving it as is. I have the Y pipe, manifold gaskets and bolts for the Y pipe at the gasket. I have not gotten a CAT yet. I am still wobbling between getting a California one which is what it was OE or a 48 state one. I live in a no test state but I would like it to run as designed so it pollutes less. The price difference is huge..
Lets see oh yea after the MT2500 adjustments the ticking noise came back (probably a lifter or maybe a loose rocker). I got 15mpg’s on the next tank which seemed low. Then the tank after that I got 17+. The only diff being I haven’t been using the AC. That seems like a very big diff for the AC so down the road that may be another project. It got 19+ right after I did the intake plenum, timing chain and replaced all of the sensors in the TB. I have read posters on other sites say they get 23mpg’s so that’s what I am shooting for.
Oh yea there may be a small rad leak when it gets real hot. The overflow tank is losing fluid. That is new since the tranny guy took it overnight to “check” if there was anything wrong.If it is intermittent it may not show up while scanning. It could be caused by the movement. Isn’t there a sensor in each wheel? IDK I never had a rig with ABS
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Can you hook up the scanner and drive it? Often you can run the wire under the hood near the base of the windshield and through the passenger window. Make sure they don’t get caught in rotating parts. Maybe that will show you if the ABS is activating while you are driving. Of course that is a two man job.This is a total guess. Could it be that your ABS is malfunctioning causing the calipers to brake outside of your control?
I forget it was an 85 or 86 Datsun Honeybee. Going over mountain pass in serious snow storm it slowly kept losing power and the gas gauge went down like it was leaking. Eventually I figured out when the gauge was on E- that the intake in the grill had sucked in so much snow it made the air cleaner totally wet and very little air was getting to the motor. I removed the air cleaner and of course it ran like a champ. I get paid if you use this in a movie. 🙂
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I suppose I should describe the danger. The snow was feet deep on the sides at the top of the pass and the road had not been plowed since the storm started. It was up to a foot deep in some places. This is White Pass on Hwy 12 in Washington in the 80’s. There had been no signs. When I got to the bottom of the east side and figured out the air cleaner issue I was still many miles from a gas station and the snow was now 18 inches on the flats down there. When I did make it to a gas station I was informed that the pass had been closed before I ever exited I5 but no one had bothered to put up a sign.I’m guessing that the previous owner messed with the Dizzy the locking bolt wasn’t all that tight and the plug that block you from changing the idle was removed like someone had to turn it up. It idled way high when I got it.
I’m more concerned about the lies I’ve been told by people I paid to do this for me!
I’m thinking the improvement is also resetting the IAC since the one in there is new when I did the plenum last summer and it was set by the box instructions which means screwing in or unscrewing it so the tip looks to be the same extension as the one I removed!? What if that one is not set right? sheesh. Anyway its good I could reset it. I’m guessing I’ll get even better MPG’s once I get the exhaust fixed.I ordered the Walker Y pipe still looking at CAT’s. I want an exact fit one and it looks like Rock Auto for that too since everyone else has an O2 hole in the Cat pipes they claim are OE and my rig has it on the Y pipe.
My O2 is fine its a practically new Denso. It had thread stuff on it out of box. Pretty sure the CAT is plugged since it started running better when I tapped on it with the rubber mallet. Once I have the CAT and Y pipe in hand I will take it apart from the Manifold back. It seems to be doing OK for now. I hope that stud comes out easy.[quote=”fordranger” post=15454]im thinking of going with Lucas and seafoam anybody heard any good or bad on that? and another question flushing transes can u just unhook theri trans cooler lines and dump new fluid in till it bleeds clean any thoughts? bc a trans flush is 180 by me[/quote]
NO! You have to drain it the normal way and then replace the filter and then fill it with the correct fluid to the correct amount.
You did not say what vehicle. If you started a new thread and simply asked for coaching on how to change your tranny fluid, say what car, motor and tranny you are doing it on as well as if it is automatic or manual, you’ll get help. Post that request in the Service and Repair questions forum.As for injector cleaner they are all pretty similar. Some believe in them some don’t. Last mechanic I had checking my motor said to add a bottle of Lucas to every tank. That may be overkill since its only got 143K and the injectors are new but I did do it on the next tank because I said I would. You’ll figure it out, you won’t hurt you car.
BTW alcohol drives water away and makes it separate form any thing it is mixed with so that it can evaporate away, it does not absorb it.MDK22,
OK Nothing new on the headers but I did get an MT2500 off eBay.
I finally got to check the fuel sync and it was at -5 and fluctuated to -10 or more! I got it to sit at +1 and it occasionally went up to +5
I reset all the items it let me reset to relearn IAC and something else I think maybe two other things and I drove it.
It seems much different. First of all no valve or lifter noise going up the big hill near my house. It did drop the RPMs out from under me but it also responded as soon as I pressed the peddle down.
It drove better, accelerated better and it did not feel like that out of round thing was happening. I still think I need to do the CAT I will probably replace the Y pipe too and hopefully the muffler is not full of CAT pieces.No worries. I have to do some other things before I can get to this issue. The research I have done this morning shows this is common and that it may be the source of my ‘lifter noise’ issue. Hopefully it has not warped any valves which apparently is a possibility. So I won’t be able to get to this until late next week when my other rig is free for me to drive. I plan on removing both manifolds and replacing all fasteners.
I wonder if going with a more restrictive exhaust on the 94 has lead to this?