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I torqued it and then proceeded to press the crank seal in the timing cover crooked and destroyed it. I should a took the hint my body was giving me and stopped when I last posted. So its one more trips to the store in the morning.
The intake isn’t getting very clean. I am thinking I might look for a place to tank it. Anyone know what those 3 sensors in the front of the intake are? Two are one on either side of the thermostat and one is up on the barrel on the left side facing the truck.I’ve got the new chain on and I’m brain freezing.
I’m sure I need to torque it to around 50lbs and then just button up the timing cover and put the water pump back on but I’m questioning it and I can’t find good fully detailed instructions.More gatorade.
I’ve got the new chain on and I’m brain freezing.
I’m sure I need to torque it to around 50lbs and then just button up the timing cover and put the water pump back on but I’m questioning it and I can’t find good fully detailed instructions.More gatorade.
My body said take a break. Here are some pics of the inside of the intake manifold. I already brushed a bunch of the carbon off. The lifters and the galley under the intake look about as bad. Nothing like as clean as the guy in that link I am using to guide me.
Oh yea I found a local to loan me the puller the socket and the breaker bar so I cancelled buying the socket.My body said take a break. Here are some pics of the inside of the intake manifold. I already brushed a bunch of the carbon off. The lifters and the galley under the intake look about as bad. Nothing like as clean as the guy in that link I am using to guide me.
Oh yea I found a local to loan me the puller the socket and the breaker bar so I cancelled buying the socket.Thanks. I found more stuff that was not mentioned that should have been, I’ll try to write it up when I’m done.
I need to find out what the sensors are in the front of the manifold one bent over and it is not breaking loose with the open end and the box end won’t go down over it. I need to know what it is to replace it since I’m probably gonna break it getting it off. This is the one to the right of the thermostat facing the motor from the front. The one on the left and the one near the top of the barrel on the left front came off fairly easy (no hammers:).
The heads may be replacement heads as I now have the manifold off (bolts were just past hand tight! No effort at all to break them free.)I can see the heads have that metal marker written on the it, it says 620 or 650. I figure someone has replaced them at some point in this things history and used silicone was on some paces where the intake manifold sat. I’m hoping that was just from the impregnated stuff melting.Since the intake manifolds bolts were so loose I may not have had the plenum problem but I know I won’t now.
Back outside to take the plenum off and soak the mani in chemtool. I’ll be back to check in an hour or so.I’ve ordered a 32mm socket for the crank bolt to be in tomorrow.
Thanks. I found more stuff that was not mentioned that should have been, I’ll try to write it up when I’m done.
I need to find out what the sensors are in the front of the manifold one bent over and it is not breaking loose with the open end and the box end won’t go down over it. I need to know what it is to replace it since I’m probably gonna break it getting it off. This is the one to the right of the thermostat facing the motor from the front. The one on the left and the one near the top of the barrel on the left front came off fairly easy (no hammers:).
The heads may be replacement heads as I now have the manifold off (bolts were just past hand tight! No effort at all to break them free.)I can see the heads have that metal marker written on the it, it says 620 or 650. I figure someone has replaced them at some point in this things history and used silicone was on some paces where the intake manifold sat. I’m hoping that was just from the impregnated stuff melting.Since the intake manifolds bolts were so loose I may not have had the plenum problem but I know I won’t now.
Back outside to take the plenum off and soak the mani in chemtool. I’ll be back to check in an hour or so.I’ve ordered a 32mm socket for the crank bolt to be in tomorrow.
Thank You Shoptech.
I just remembered the guy who sold it to me said he had it mostly parked for ten years and I expect he only added fuel to it for the dump runs he made.
At some point someone changed the lower rad hose but the rest seems to be OE with no signs of leaks.
The job I’m doing is because of performance issues but it never made me think the heads were cracked and there has been no smoke.Thank You Shoptech.
I just remembered the guy who sold it to me said he had it mostly parked for ten years and I expect he only added fuel to it for the dump runs he made.
At some point someone changed the lower rad hose but the rest seems to be OE with no signs of leaks.
The job I’m doing is because of performance issues but it never made me think the heads were cracked and there has been no smoke.Why do the plug wires need cleaning? Seems like that is a bigger issue to me. If they are getting sprayed with oil then the oil leak is more important to fix.
Otherwise a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to get stuck on grime off and a dry cloth to wipe off wet oil. You have to let the coating soak in something for it to be affected, I’d say whatever you are cleaning off them is probably worse than what you use to do it.If you mean the connections I do not know about cleaning them inside the hoods on the wires, but I do use WD-40 (Water Displacement-40th Attempt) on all electric connections under the hood.
Why do the plug wires need cleaning? Seems like that is a bigger issue to me. If they are getting sprayed with oil then the oil leak is more important to fix.
Otherwise a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to get stuck on grime off and a dry cloth to wipe off wet oil. You have to let the coating soak in something for it to be affected, I’d say whatever you are cleaning off them is probably worse than what you use to do it.If you mean the connections I do not know about cleaning them inside the hoods on the wires, but I do use WD-40 (Water Displacement-40th Attempt) on all electric connections under the hood.
[quote=”college man” post=102253]If the truck ran fine with what you got why change it. I can’t
see what the real gain would be.[/quote]Well that’s just it, it has never run fine since I got it in Sep 2013. I’m going to add the Plenum and timing chain fix along with new MAP and IAC and TV cable. The TPS and all the tuneup parts wires, plugs, cap, rotor, switch plate, as well as Oil sensor, O2 sensor and PCV valve are new since I bought it. I’m hoping the timing chain plenum fix gets it running right. I want to know about what injectors would be best because while I don’t want to do cams or any mods like that I do want maximum performance from the Stock setup and the existing ones look to be OE.
EDIT
More research. No dealer or parts dealer knows what the LB’s is on the OE Injector Chrysler Part Number 4554127AB. My dealer wants $135+ each!
They are not cheap the best price is in the $70’s so far unless I go with after market from Hughes where I have to buy 8 new ones for $294.99. I have decided to wait until I do the Plenum to look at what I have in right now and from that make a decision.Any knowledge or experience you guys have will help.
[quote=”college man” post=102253]If the truck ran fine with what you got why change it. I can’t
see what the real gain would be.[/quote]Well that’s just it, it has never run fine since I got it in Sep 2013. I’m going to add the Plenum and timing chain fix along with new MAP and IAC and TV cable. The TPS and all the tuneup parts wires, plugs, cap, rotor, switch plate, as well as Oil sensor, O2 sensor and PCV valve are new since I bought it. I’m hoping the timing chain plenum fix gets it running right. I want to know about what injectors would be best because while I don’t want to do cams or any mods like that I do want maximum performance from the Stock setup and the existing ones look to be OE.
EDIT
More research. No dealer or parts dealer knows what the LB’s is on the OE Injector Chrysler Part Number 4554127AB. My dealer wants $135+ each!
They are not cheap the best price is in the $70’s so far unless I go with after market from Hughes where I have to buy 8 new ones for $294.99. I have decided to wait until I do the Plenum to look at what I have in right now and from that make a decision.Any knowledge or experience you guys have will help.
