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Thank You
OK I got it done.
I found this vid just after posting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcHDWsDRE54
I went directly to the AZ to get a tool. The tool I chose did not work. I tried several other stores on the way back to return it no joy pretty much the same offerings anbd staff who did not inspire confidence. Then I went to Napa and the guy had just done his. He sold me this tool (Pic to be posted) and to just file it down if it was too large to fit. I had/have about <1/2 to fit the tool in. The tool of the right size had an extension of more than that. As you can see I ground down the one side more than half and it worked. I removed the threaded connector on the other side and used the tool on it when I took the rad out.
Side note. I watched Eric vids again before doing this. I did not look to see what product he was using. I bought a Lisle spill free from O'Reilly's online. they had it to pick up in the store in a couple hours. It did not seal and was next to useless. There was nothing to seal the caps they supplied only one worked and it was loose. The nipple connection to the cap they supply is also flaky. They told me they would take it back. I suppose I could use caulk and some rubber gasket materiel to make it work but I paid $40 I think Lisle should have done that.It is possible to have a steering wheel appear normal and for there to be no air bag in it. It is a common scam for scummy people to remove the bags to sell them separately when they sell the car.
I had a used 99 Passat, I was T boned and spun around and slammed into a tree practically bending the car in half. It looked like an hourglass that had the top half leaning over. There was no steering wheel airbag only the ones on the side went off when the one in the steering wheel obviously should have. The belt kept me from being injured much worse.[quote=”Stewielax8″ post=169235]Hello all, I was replacing my thermostat, and whoever did the work before me used thread lock on the bolts. When I took them out the threads came with it.[/quote] What does this mean?
[quote=”Stewieax8 post169235] I tried to tap them, but the threads keep coming with it.[/quote] What does this mean?Stop tapping the holes.
IDK the answer to the question about disconnecting the IAC and motor stopping but College Man did say it controls idle so it makes sense that it would.
Your best bet at diagnosing the problem is to follow the instructions given and don’t do anything else. That way the people offering advice know what is happening and can understand what you report back in that context. If you remember something you forgot just say so and report it here. It is common to do this having a vehicle fail can be very stressful.My apologies I misread the reply I had got on the other forum here it is in full; “If the front hubs have a tone ring and sensors, it’s 4 wheel.” Apparently I skimmed and only got the end of the sentence. mea culpa.
So it is only 4wheel ABS if the front wheels meet that condition.I am aware Evil-i. I don’t expect any as the truck was dry and rust free in all the places these things rust when I bought it. I sprung a leak last year which spread across the floor fooling me into thinking it was the cowl. After I was told these gaskets give out I looked over both front and back and the back had pulled away right in the area it was wet inside. I think the leak is actually in the rear seal I am just being thorough and doing the front as it is original as well. I want to do it myself but I will pay if I can’t get instructions.
I am going to sand and clean with spirits then paint with Rustoleum Auto Primer to ensure the metal stays rust free. I’m pretty sure the glass guy isn’t going to care as much as I will especially since it is so old.I’ve checked with another Dodge specific website that I belong to and this rig is a 4 wheel abs truck which actually is good news. That means you can probably figure out what exactly is going bad and fix it. It is probably an abs component or sensor going bad.
Thank you. I’m still leery, I would like to see a windshield with gasket installed. :). I have been told by guys who own these on another site that its fairly easy to break the windshield. if you try to remove them without cutting the rubber. I am going to do the rear glass per the video in the credits of this one Steele Rubber install with cord. I think they also have my front gasket so I might cut the front window out if I think I can install it. After seeing that rear window vid the $175 price to install a gasket I supply just seems crazy.
I was of the same opinion as you Evil-i but Eric has a section on MPG’s and one point he makes is that you should use the manufacturers recommended brand. I was asking just to get an opinion on the mixing of brands as I wanted to eliminate the possibility that this is why my MPG’s have dropped. The odd ball plugs one was an NGK a perfectly good brand and the other was an E3.20 a brand I never heard of that had a forked tang and claimed to work better than normal plugs. They were both warn much less than the older dealer rec plugs.
I’ve bought and installed them. On the plugs I removed, one was gapped to narrow and a couple others were too wide all seemed worn about the same at the tang but some had more black on the threads than others. I broke one of the new ones putting it in so I cleaned up the best one of the correct brand with a wire brush, gapped it right then put it in an easier hole to replace it from.Thank You
Edit; for anyone with the same rig the dealer says the recommended brand is Champion. If I remember correctly the exact type is on a sticker under the hood.Seems like the problem is with the blower (fan) motor. Maybe this will help. http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Suzuki-Aerio-Verona-2002-06/Blower-Motor/Removal-Installation/_/P-0996b43f80379e47
Give this a watch. This poor victim has done some work to help everyone in getting BMW to correct the design flaw. Looks like the recall on the tensioner is a cop out by BMW to avoid taking responsibility for the design flaw. Here is the note under the vid
“Published on Jul 23, 2015
The timing chain design fault on the BMW N47 diesel engine whereby the teeth on the camshaft sprocket are excessively sharp and eventually cause the chain to snap. The damage to the engine runs to thousands of pounds and it’s everybody’s fault but BMW.”Haynes is a repair manual not a Service manual. It won;’t have the detail you are looking for to do the job. The factory service manual is what the dealer mechanics use. Even so the one for my Dodge does expect me to know somethings when it describes how to.
Good Luck.
