Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
its an 85 Ram 50 100Kmiles. The temp sensor did indicate hot when I noticed it, it was already almost maxed out. I was cruising down the highway and the motor gave no signs until minutes before the overheat. I had just enough time to get off the road.
The head is definitely bad I’ve had it to a shop and they told me it was toast just looking at it. They pointed out the big crack where it failed. I have found a replacement and while I wait for it to arrive I have turned my mind to figuring out whether or not the radiator was bad.
Since I posted I have found a used rad for $45 and its another $20 to test and flow check it but the rad guy said in his opinion just from seeing all the junkyard rads he gets and how many trips people have to make to get a good one, I should just buy new and save myself the gas and aggravation, if that’s my intent.
I think that will have him pressure and flow test the one I have, and go from there. He says the flow test is very subjective according to who is doing the work as it is essentially a matter of eyeballing it.its an 85 Ram 50 100Kmiles. The temp sensor did indicate hot when I noticed it, it was already almost maxed out. I was cruising down the highway and the motor gave no signs until minutes before the overheat. I had just enough time to get off the road.
The head is definitely bad I’ve had it to a shop and they told me it was toast just looking at it. They pointed out the big crack where it failed. I have found a replacement and while I wait for it to arrive I have turned my mind to figuring out whether or not the radiator was bad.
Since I posted I have found a used rad for $45 and its another $20 to test and flow check it but the rad guy said in his opinion just from seeing all the junkyard rads he gets and how many trips people have to make to get a good one, I should just buy new and save myself the gas and aggravation, if that’s my intent.
I think that will have him pressure and flow test the one I have, and go from there. He says the flow test is very subjective according to who is doing the work as it is essentially a matter of eyeballing it.I found one online and I hadn’t gotten back here yet when your post came in.
Its ready to install, it has 2v instead of 3v* which is what I want since I’ve got a Weber instead of the stock carb, with a prepaid return shipping label for the core and no core charge for 30 days as long as I send the core back. All for only $15 over the list price that guy I mentioned had it at and it comes to my house saving what will probably be the price of the gaskets and new bolts in gas money. Yea
I’ll update when it comes in next week and thank you.*Apparently that spot where there is a fitting at the base of the spark plug hole is what is considered the 3rd valve on this head.
I found one online and I hadn’t gotten back here yet when your post came in.
Its ready to install, it has 2v instead of 3v* which is what I want since I’ve got a Weber instead of the stock carb, with a prepaid return shipping label for the core and no core charge for 30 days as long as I send the core back. All for only $15 over the list price that guy I mentioned had it at and it comes to my house saving what will probably be the price of the gaskets and new bolts in gas money. Yea
I’ll update when it comes in next week and thank you.*Apparently that spot where there is a fitting at the base of the spark plug hole is what is considered the 3rd valve on this head.
Went to shop and there are many more cracks in the head than I showed in that pic. The one in the pic is the worst and they figure the one that blew it. They said there were signs it had burnt coolant. If I can find a junkyard head and it is not cracked max rebuild will be $400. The guy who said he had a rebuilt one on the shelf ready to go for $395+ core now doesn’t and he only has a new one which does not have the jet valve. He’s gonna call me back with a price.
Any idea how to tell if a motor is 2.0 or not by looking at it? I ask because the local says they don’t have one but I’ve been taking parts off two of them for years and it sure looks like the same rig motor and all to me.
One yard offered to order me a used on for $275 “guaranteed” I asked if they had pressure tested it and they said no. So the guarantee is they will take it back if its defective which is not a guarantee its the law.Went to shop and there are many more cracks in the head than I showed in that pic. The one in the pic is the worst and they figure the one that blew it. They said there were signs it had burnt coolant. If I can find a junkyard head and it is not cracked max rebuild will be $400. The guy who said he had a rebuilt one on the shelf ready to go for $395+ core now doesn’t and he only has a new one which does not have the jet valve. He’s gonna call me back with a price.
Any idea how to tell if a motor is 2.0 or not by looking at it? I ask because the local says they don’t have one but I’ve been taking parts off two of them for years and it sure looks like the same rig motor and all to me.
One yard offered to order me a used on for $275 “guaranteed” I asked if they had pressure tested it and they said no. So the guarantee is they will take it back if its defective which is not a guarantee its the law.I had a 99 Passat that did this every time I filled up. Turns out it is a common problem and indicative that the charcoal canister which is part of the fuel vapor catching system was plugged up and needed a new insert. Put it in and it never happened again.
IDK about the dieseling when you get home.I had a 99 Passat that did this every time I filled up. Turns out it is a common problem and indicative that the charcoal canister which is part of the fuel vapor catching system was plugged up and needed a new insert. Put it in and it never happened again.
IDK about the dieseling when you get home.Thank you Karl. I ate something and went out found the bolt that was in the way and it came right off.
the head is cracked in Cyl 3
It’s at TDC with the timing belt zip tied to the cam sprocket and resting on the bottom cover lip meant for it. The two cylinders I can feel are smooth. It cranked over smoothly no problems by hand.Here are some pics let me know if you guys think this looks OK to go ahead and put another head on it. Miles are 100900
I haven’t checked the junk yards yet. I know there are at least two of these guys out there in one yard.Thank you Karl. I ate something and went out found the bolt that was in the way and it came right off.
the head is cracked in Cyl 3
It’s at TDC with the timing belt zip tied to the cam sprocket and resting on the bottom cover lip meant for it. The two cylinders I can feel are smooth. It cranked over smoothly no problems by hand.Here are some pics let me know if you guys think this looks OK to go ahead and put another head on it. Miles are 100900
I haven’t checked the junk yards yet. I know there are at least two of these guys out there in one yard.I was in getting my other rig checked and asked about a head gasket for this rig. They were very down on the idea of fixing it sight unseen. Then said a rebuilt head would cost $700-$900 plus install it would be $2K+ for the job!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I haven’t taken it apart as I haven’t gotten it up into the driveway yet but I know if the existing head is that bad I can get one ready to install for less than $400 and its only an hour away. They did relieve my mind about the cam and timing marks as I was worried about getting the cam mark reset. They said it would be set in the new head and I’d just have to line up the marks. When I asked how to loosen that cam bolt they said get a bigger impact wrench. I am using hand tools and I tried to loosen it when I was doing the timing belt a few months ago and I could not hold it still so that I could turn the bolt.
Any ides?I was in getting my other rig checked and asked about a head gasket for this rig. They were very down on the idea of fixing it sight unseen. Then said a rebuilt head would cost $700-$900 plus install it would be $2K+ for the job!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I haven’t taken it apart as I haven’t gotten it up into the driveway yet but I know if the existing head is that bad I can get one ready to install for less than $400 and its only an hour away. They did relieve my mind about the cam and timing marks as I was worried about getting the cam mark reset. They said it would be set in the new head and I’d just have to line up the marks. When I asked how to loosen that cam bolt they said get a bigger impact wrench. I am using hand tools and I tried to loosen it when I was doing the timing belt a few months ago and I could not hold it still so that I could turn the bolt.
Any ides?Sorry for the confusion. I do intend to get the tranny rebuilt now that it was diagnosed properly. $1922.70 or less is a good deal. Since I have it I’ll have him put in the new TV cable and return spring.
The guys who checked the motor before sending me to the transmission shop told me that other guy who wanted to do the Torque converter sounded fishy to them too, The guy in Indiana that Hughes gave me the number for said the same thing.
Dirt in the pan does not equal new tc which is how it was presented to me at the time. I allow that experience may have lead them to the recommendation but by not saying so or making a better case related to my symptoms to me it I cannot give the credit for it. I’ve also been told an old tranny will often break down in a few thousand miles if you put a new TC in it without rebuilding it.I forgot to mention the main reason for this thread, The tranny man said the low RPM’s are probably an OEM thing that it is supposed to be doing (lower RPM’s better MPG’s) and he also felt the tach may not be reading true. It seemed to him the real RPMs were about 100 more than was showing at idle.
The head I was talking about is on another vehicle which I posted about on here an 85 ram 50.
I do intend to fix the tranny but I have to figure out how to go without a truck for 3 days or fix the Ram so I have something to drive. I just added that at the end of the post because I was tired and being lazy. I should have put it in the correct thread.Sorry for the confusion. I do intend to get the tranny rebuilt now that it was diagnosed properly. $1922.70 or less is a good deal. Since I have it I’ll have him put in the new TV cable and return spring.
The guys who checked the motor before sending me to the transmission shop told me that other guy who wanted to do the Torque converter sounded fishy to them too, The guy in Indiana that Hughes gave me the number for said the same thing.
Dirt in the pan does not equal new tc which is how it was presented to me at the time. I allow that experience may have lead them to the recommendation but by not saying so or making a better case related to my symptoms to me it I cannot give the credit for it. I’ve also been told an old tranny will often break down in a few thousand miles if you put a new TC in it without rebuilding it.I forgot to mention the main reason for this thread, The tranny man said the low RPM’s are probably an OEM thing that it is supposed to be doing (lower RPM’s better MPG’s) and he also felt the tach may not be reading true. It seemed to him the real RPMs were about 100 more than was showing at idle.
The head I was talking about is on another vehicle which I posted about on here an 85 ram 50.
I do intend to fix the tranny but I have to figure out how to go without a truck for 3 days or fix the Ram so I have something to drive. I just added that at the end of the post because I was tired and being lazy. I should have put it in the correct thread.I didn’t say anything but “please check if the engine is running right”. That way I avoid creating a problem of them looking for my inexperienced impressions.
The mechanic says on paper he is unsure if its enginemiss ir transmission. They told me the engine was fine. He recommended a rebuilds as he felt it was slipping. There were two codes (I hadn’t checked in a while) 37 & 45. Apparently what I have been describing as jumping is slipping. They recommended a guy named Guy!
I went to see him. He said the codes for TC are basically a way of saying its slipping. He drove it. He felt it wasn’t slipping as much as it seemed to be losing pressure. He figured the pump or internal seals or both either way the fix is a rebuild. $1922.70 or less.
I finally got the numbers off the side of my transmission as it seems if this is a late 94 it will be a 95 transmission and the problem may be a circuit board where the items for both codes would meet on a 95 transmission.
I’m gonna research it and then have to figure out how to get 3 days without a rig. Maybe I will tear into that Ram while I’m home bound.
EDIT The truck in this thread is a Dakota the Ram50 I am referring to after this has a blown head gasket. I should have posted what follows in that thread instead of here but I was tired and being lazy. Sorry for any confusion. I intend to rebuild the tranny as soon as I work out how I am going to go 3 days without this rig.The mechanics told me the head would cost $700-$900 for a rebuilt one and 2 grand total to install it!!!!!
I kept my mouth shut I can get one for less than $400 ready to install. I figure if the block looks good and the existing head is trashed or needs rebuilt I will get the new one and just let them have the old one for core. Oh yea they would not install a head if I got it myself. I suppose that’s normal.
