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I don’t have a honda but I found this diagram of the seat belt https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2005-honda-accord–4dr_ex_v6-ka_5at/interior_bumper/seat_belts.html
I’d look for a leak inside the plastic covers on the column. Did you feel the floor to see if it is wet?I did the test manually and the cap and radiator passed. I found no leaks. I returned the kit. Then looking over the FSM I saw a rad pressure test with it running up to full temp.
My question here is do I need to test this with the motor running at full temp?
I haven’t been here in a while. Sorry to anyone who needed this info.
I ended up by putting a filter in the PCV line and the oil breather hose that goes to the air cleaner from the other valve cover. It turns out there is oil getting through the oil breather which is new. The back pressure from the filters caused a seal leak that went away once I removed the filters. I make sure I get good air filters that seal top and bottom and check them every couple months.Just to update. I managed to replace the rear window myself with the rope method shown in the video right after the one linked. I got myself a suction cup tool with two cups and a handle between for $12 at sears online. It held the glass fine. The only trouble I has was in using the gasket I followed advice to soap up the glass slot. Well I almost broke the glass w few times. I finally gave up cleaned off the soap, let it sit in the sun for 20 minutes and it went right on.
The rope went into the slot just fine and it only took me a minute to figure out that I shouldn’t start with the lip over the edge of the pinch weld it was supposed to hang on. I just held it with some pressure in the exact position it was meant to be in then pulled the rope which lifted the lip up and over the pinch weld. There was no problem at all.
I ended up doing a lot of other work and now winter weather has come. I have the front seal from Steele Rubber. Now I only need a good bid for the work.I’m pretty sure muffler’s do not have weep holes. If exhaust is coming out anywhere but the end of the tail pipe there is a leak that should be fixed.
I have replaced the PCV. When I removed the air cleaner I noticed the new filter had left a ring of oil on the top and bottom lid. This makes me thing the previous aftermarket filter was letting oil from the breather get by over the top since it wasn’t sealing. I sprayed carb cleaner and used a paint stir stick and hanger to rub a rag around trying to get as much as I could removed. I am going to replace the breather and put a filter in the hose like I have done with the PCV to see if anything is getting by that way.
If it isn’t it can only be a failure of the plenum gasket. The pictures are taken with the throttle body off looking down into the intake holes.How many tanks of gas have you gone through since this started? If its only one or two the fuel level may be a red herring.
I’m with CollegeMan on the pump issue. Since its new maybe the wires leading to it are failing? Or there is a bad connection? Bad ground?When I placed the filter in the PCV line the valve was oily all the way through.
It has 147K+ miles. I suppose blow by could be an issue. I have added Risolone on recommendation a while back. I recently changed the oil. I used a method an Aussie told me about where I drain it and put the dirty filter back on after emptying it, and poured in half the full amount of new oil and some cleaning agent and drove it a bit. Then I drained it and put on the new filter and new oil. That seemed to make it run better, solve the valve noise/knock issue and give me better mileage until the EGR code popped up about a week ago. Mileage has dropped off significantly in the last week.I was considering it a while back and it was hard as heck to get good answers or advice. What I found online did not inspire confidence. You should try auto recycle yards where they bring in wrecks and you know they take them apart and test them properly. Unless of course you intend to rebuild it them I suppse as long as it is not cracked you’re golden. Good luck . Here is a 3rd gen dodge specific forum where you might get more info. http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-trucks-41/
You probably already know this but just in case. I think you are supposed to put the belt over the wheel with no grooves last. That way yo don;t have to try to get over the outer edge of the grooved pulleys. According to that diagram I would place the belt on all the pulleys including the tensioner pulley. Then rotate the tensioner and slip it under the small smooth roller just above and to the right of it.
Side note- I have a pickup and the serpentine belt kept squealing. I replaced the tensioner no joy. Then I removed the belt and using sand paper, wire brush and brake cleaner I went over each groove all the way around on all of the pulleys. My hand hurt when I was done There was a LOT of black gunk from old belts wearing out and leaving materiel behind. The pulleys were all shiny when I was done. I also sprayed the belt and brushed it down to remove any buildup on it and let it dry completely before putting it back on.
No noise at all now.The click was the solenoid failing to work when power hit it. I usually just replace the whole starter as I have never taken them apart. An old trick when this happens is to tap on the solenoid with something hard usually a wrench a few times and that often helps it to go. But once it starts doing that it is time to change it if you can because its days are numbered and you won’t know when the last time it will work is until it has already passed you by 🙂
If its running fine I would just keep on doing what you have been and keep an eye on things when you change it again. Its probably wear fleks that had been stuck in odd corners of the motor and the synthetic oil broke it free.
My question is this. You say “I get an engine light and my traction control stops working.”
I assume you mean the Check Engine light comes on but how do yo know your traction control has stopped working? I’m guessing by traction control you mean ABS. I would expect an ABS code or light to come on if there was a problem. Either way I don’t think that would affect how the motor ran.
As for the codes I would make sure the crank sensor is working properly. Crank sensors can make a huge difference in how the motor runs.
