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To tension the belt correctly:
This is what I missed. I did it at TDC.
-Turn the engine over counterclockwise so 3 teeth come up on the intake cam pulley
Then tighten the tensioner.
I used the older spring that was there. It was a double spring, one inside the other. Probably OEM. The new spring was a single, came with the gates tensioner.
In many of the Acura/Honda forums, people say the spring isn’t tight enough. They give it just a little more. They run high rpms. That’s a Honda, below 4k, there’s no torque. Above 5k they scream. I’m not saying tightening it is right, that’s why I’m getting more input. These Honda tuner guys live with their cars. Some know a lot, some don’t. I barely pushed a little tighter, not much. It jumped a tooth while during the initial installation, as I was trying to get it adjusted. They call it an interference Engine. One tooth off and the valves hit the pistons.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=178195]Why does the key way in the crankshaft look enlarged? It should be the same size and shape as the key.[/quote]
Most likely, they lost the key and put what ever they could find in there, or it wasn’t torqued correctly and got loose.
Those are the only two reasons I can think of.
This is very hard to get to. The curve at the top of the photo is the wheel well, and only 1-1/2″ between the two. I’ll have to drop the engine a couple inches to get this off. I ordered a jaw puller. I think I’m just going to try and yank it off.
.I have the original Honda Service Manual, issued for my specific car. It does not have much info on this specific procedure. Not much of an index either. I am also doing the timing belt, so the driver’s side mount has to be detached….considering it mounts dead in the middle of the timing belt.
Ummm, I just realized, where the trans mounts to the engine is on the other side. It won’t help me to support it there. I have to take out the engine mount just above the harmonic balancer….the other side of the block. If I need to lower the engine any further, the mount on the front side will have to be undone. That one is in the middle/front of the block. Supporting the trans won’t take any of the load. Wrong side of the engine.
I’ll have to get underneath and look at the trans. I’ve seen many videos of people using wood under the oil pan, mostly on newer models. Mine is a bit different then later models. I would have to put wood on one end or the other. A small area of rigid support. So I’ll look at the trans and see if there’s a good spot.
The ’90, being the 1st model year of the DC2 was slightly different than even, the next year. Acura started changing things immediately. It’s a great car, no matter what they did to the next ones.
….and I’m still waiting on the water pump from Acura in Florida. It’s shipping today.
Thanks! This car makes me feel like I’ve got something special. The 1990 version. I even like the b18a1. I’ve put just a little bit of stuff to improve performance, not much. 4 hole – high impeadence injectors, K&N Cold air intake, 2″ exhaust with Magnaflow Cat and Muffler, though I had to put in a resinator to quiet it down. That worked very well. It gets just a little louder around 3/4 throttle, but sounds like engine, not a tuba. It’s surprisingly quick after 4500 rpms, and if you shift right, it really goes.
….I don’t run it hard very much, I want to keep it.
I also did the suspension bushings, skunk2 LCAs and AGX struts, brakes-rotors-calipers-hubs, front coils….some electrical, and got the AC working.