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The car makes the same noise in drive, reverse, park and neutral although the sound is less apparent when in drive or reverse i guess because the cars on load.
Thanks for replying, i ran my car for 30 min and drove it a bit and the long term fuel trims never set they stay at 0. My short terms are still apparently maxed out. I know i have p0141 (bank 1 sensor 2 malfunction) so i have a new sensor coming in. Could it be beacuse my downstream sensor on bank 2 is bad that my long terms are never being set?
My car is idling like crap i checked everything the only thing suspicious is the fuel trims.
Yes this is a duplicate thread. I waited like 5 hours and havent recieved a reply on my last thread. I noticed college man replying to everyone elses thread but mine the whole time. I never attacked anyone directly all i said was its fucked up how he would awnser everyones questions but mine.
I already read that whole excerpt off google. I’m not asking about closed loop and how it fricking works. I asked if a car doesnt idle correctly and or stalls while in open loop mode then there is a problem is there a problem with the car.
If its a cel for TDC sensor why bother replacing the distributor again? Just diagnose the tdc sensor/cirquit and move on from there
forgot about the reservoir as long as your radiator is full at all times you shouldnt have any leaks.
Get a block tester to test for a blown head gasket cause that can cause coolant loss that wont drip to the floor.
well i did that and the car finally started without having to hold the throttle down. Which makes me pretty sure its an iac issue because when the throttle is closed it wouldnt start and stay on meaning the cars lacking air.
The car idles pretty well in neutral and park but does jump around a bit. starts at like 1500 rpm and drops to around 700 when the engine is warmed and my car is suppost to idle 700 +-100.
So when i put it in drive/reverse the car rpms drop and tries to go back up but stalls. This tells me its something with the iac because thee ste throtte was cosed the whole time and it idles fine in neutral/park. However when it goes into drive/reverse the iac isnt moving fast enough or extending/retracting enough to catch the idle after putting load on the engine(putting it in drive/reverse). I was able to turn the heat and ac on while it was idling in park and that diddnt have much of an impact as well as turning the steering wheel.
I noticed when i have the iac out and cylce the key on and off my iac barely moves in or out. One of them doesnt move at all.. So i’m thinking because the iac is able to move a tiny bit it can handle park/neutral flunctuations. But because it doesnt extract/retract as much as i would think it should be thats why it doesnt catch the idle when i put the car in drive/reverse.
I think something in the iac is stuck or a coil is bad maiking the iac motor range restricted and or slow.
i just tried with it the positive and got same result. I really appreciate the help i ordered a replacement of the new sensor i recently got and will see if that sensor works out. If not then either im not jumping the sensor right or the new sensor is bad aswell. The battery is 12v so i cant see why else the motor wouldnt move when jumped
2 of the iac that actually did something were old ones i had laying around. The new one i got back in February while i was still building my engine was the iac that didnt do anything at all when jumped.
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Oh wait i was touching the positive wire to 1/4 and the negative to 2/5 would that make a difference?Edit: i tried it with positive to 2/5 and neg to 1/4 and got same reactions…