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I’ll check the fuel pressure as soon as i can. And the transmission was behind a chevy 350 beforehand, a different block that was mildly built. The transmission did awesome beforehand the fluid never smelled burnt or looked bad, the guy i bought the truck from said it was recently rebuilt. You could feel the 2.73 rear end being a problem but for the most part the transmission was strong. However, the truck sat with no engine in it for quite some time and i feel like theres a chance the torque converter couldve been slightly out enough to leak tranny fluid or something. My gut tells me that the vacuum might be an issue. Beforehand with the previous engine, the vacuum modulator line was hooked up to the front of the carb rather than in the intake manifold. I hooked it up to the manifold this time and plugged the one on the carb.
I was thinking as such. I just wanted some more experienced opinions. Get some ideas. I’m really having a tough time figuring out where i should go next. This project was a build my dad and I have been slowly buying parts for over 4 years. His health has been much worse over these years and I have to keep a budget in mind. I wqnt to get as much information as i can before i spend money on it. And as i said his health is so bad he can’t really get out to help me figure it out himself. I appreciate qny knowledge or advice you guys give. I’m open to all ideas.
Its as if something is bogging the engine down and not letting rpms go up. It’s not like a slipping problem where you give it more rpm and nothing happens. Its you hold it to the floor and its almost as if the truck is trying to pull out in 3rd gear.
It has an edelbrock 650 mechanical choke. And an aftermarket performance fuel pump. Can’t remember the exact specs but i remember making sure it had a decent fuel flow. The only thing fuel wise I can think of is if maybe I have a vacuum leak somewhere or if the secondary metering rod springs need to be changed since it’s such a lopey cam.
Bump for help. You can be driving down the road and let off the throttle and it keeps slightly accelerating on its own. I put it in neutral and the rpms shoot up to 3500 for about 15 to 20 seconds then immediately back down to normal. I cleaned the throttle body. I didn’t consider vacuum leaks because itTruns perfectly fine otherwise and immediately returns to normal operation when the rpms drop back down
Ide say it’s more likely the pump being weak. That seems to happen more often. But you may get your hands on a fuel pressure tester and find somewhere to hook it up. I know there’s usually a port for it. And lookup the fuel pressure psi specs for your car. Not sure if you can rent a fuel pressure tester at an auto parts store or not, I just bought one. If your getting weaker pressure than spec Ide go with the fuel pump being bad. But if your getting the right fuel pressure up to that point. It’d have to be somewhere in the fuel delivery after where you tested it. Testing fuel injectors and such. But take what I say with a grain of salt, I’m no veteran mechanic. Just several years into learning. The fact that the gas just barely dribbles out when you press the valve leads me to believe maybe its just a weak pump with not enough pressure.
The tps only went up to a maximum of 92% on the floor WOT. It seemed to return decently fast but the obd scanner im using isn’t the fastest. The tps is only an idea. Any other thoughts?
I know this is an off shot, so im only throwing it out there based on how well detailed your description is that you know enough to check most of obvious places. But have you checked for electrical arcing around the coil packs wires etc.. ? Just an outside the box thought. I would check everything else you think it could be first.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYU8qtPzQOY&index=36&list=PL968D5AF70B82EC06[/video]Erics video may help
Sounds like its just a seal problem. Im not an expert on hyundai heads so you would have to find out what all seals it has, but likely its a seal that goes right where the plug goes into the head considering you replaced the valve cover gasket, and you said you found oil on both sides of the plug. Or less likely it could be the seal that goes on top of the inside of the valve cover that keeps oil out of the tube that your ignition coil slides into. But im not an expert on overhead cam engines. Just telling you what i know.
Not sure if it helps, but I had the same problem on my dodge dakota, the problem was a harness connector on my transmission getting hot and not making a good connection, when hooked up to a scanner, it read the gear selector jumping allover the place wildly and erratically. Had to get a new plug
Other than you finding oil on the spark plugs, how does the car run? How does it act? Could be an oil seal somewhere.. the valve cover gasket isnt the only one that could cause that, there are several seals in the head. Are you for sure its oil on the plug?
If your sure its oil and not gasoline on them, It could be several things letting oil into the cylinder. A more common thing is valve stem seals going bad and letting oil down by the valve into the cylinder. Does the car burn oil and smoke alot? What is the makemodelyear etc.. of your car? If it does smoke does it get worse as it warms up ?
I’m no expert, but you said you replaced the rotor and cap. did you have it running after that but before you started on the vacuum lines?
Thanks for the reply eric, i love the youtube videos. Also, an update on the stealth. i banged my head against a wall for long enough to fall back to one of the initial things i did to the car. one of the first things i did when i bought the car was clean out the throttle body, which led me to finding the iac needed to be replaced and replaced it. I recalled it being excessively gummed up, however this seemed to be the last possible thing to me to check. I took off the throttle body and disassembled it including sensitive parts. and dipped it in cleaner, scrubbed it out and even used wire to push gunk out of holes. I suppose whatever crackcrevice the cleaner got in was enough to clean out whatever was causing the problem. It runs and idles just fine. Now to change belts, valve seals, brakes, tires, and maybe hunt down why my computer keeps throwing the coolant temp sensor code..