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Alright so I filled the almost empty reservoir for the ABS system and that didn’t help. I didn’t notice anything until I was about 5 mins from where I live. I stopped at a stop light and I noticed the clicking and the pressure on the break peddle for a moment. I pulled into a parking lot and it had stopped. I turned off the car and realized the window was down so I tried to turn the car back on to roll it up but the car wouldn’t start. All the dash lights were dimly lit unlike normal and I could hear the starter trying to spin but there was not enough power. I popped the hood and didn’t see anything. I shook the battery cable but that didn’t help either. I closed the door pretty hard and closed the hood to see if that would shake what ever was not connecting fully into place. It worked. The car started and I backed up then it stalled. It lost power again for a second. I turned the key to restart it and no lights came on. Then they came on and I was able to start it. I let it idle for a moment and the idle rpms were only at 600 and the car sounded like it was about to die again, so I kept my foot on the accelerator until I got home. I tested the battery and its holding at 12 volts with the car off and when the car is running, its at 14.24 volts but the car still runs at 600 rpms. It normally sits at 900 to 1000 rpms at idle. What could cause this?
I’ll try that when it happens again. It has only given me trouble twice so far so I’m going to see if I can fill it with the dot 3 fluid an if that doesn’t work, I’ll just unplug the fuse. Thanks for your help with everything!
I’ll try that when it happens again. It has only given me trouble twice so far so I’m going to see if I can fill it with the dot 3 fluid an if that doesn’t work, I’ll just unplug the fuse. Thanks for your help with everything!
I thought this too but it occurred when the temperature was around 60 but I haven’t found any issues or problems so it may just be normal as I just didn’t notice it before. I did however find out (sort of) what was causing the missfire and the source of the click sound I heard the other day. It was coming from the high pressure system for my ABS and is why my ABS flashed code 18. It would pop twice ever second and every time it would do this it would cause an energy draw on the engine and all the electrical systems. The radio and lights would cut out at each click and the engine would bog down. I suppose the click (energy draw) would happen at the same time as when a spark was to fire, disallowing the spark to fire, causing the missfire. I don’t know what this means though or how to fix it. I tried to add fluid but I’m not sure how, if at all, I’m supposed to get the cap off. An ideas?
I thought this too but it occurred when the temperature was around 60 but I haven’t found any issues or problems so it may just be normal as I just didn’t notice it before. I did however find out (sort of) what was causing the missfire and the source of the click sound I heard the other day. It was coming from the high pressure system for my ABS and is why my ABS flashed code 18. It would pop twice ever second and every time it would do this it would cause an energy draw on the engine and all the electrical systems. The radio and lights would cut out at each click and the engine would bog down. I suppose the click (energy draw) would happen at the same time as when a spark was to fire, disallowing the spark to fire, causing the missfire. I don’t know what this means though or how to fix it. I tried to add fluid but I’m not sure how, if at all, I’m supposed to get the cap off. An ideas?
I was doing all the test that I could starting from the code reading (only the ABS code 18)and made it to the voltage leak test and so far I haven’t found any issues. I did notice that the white smoke was almost unperceivable and the miss firings have stopped…for now. I have yet to preform a leak down test but hopefully will tomorrow. I don’t see why the problem would just stop like it has. Does that give any clues? I wish I had more info.
Thanks for the guidance. I’ll keep on testing down the list on the link.
I was doing all the test that I could starting from the code reading (only the ABS code 18)and made it to the voltage leak test and so far I haven’t found any issues. I did notice that the white smoke was almost unperceivable and the miss firings have stopped…for now. I have yet to preform a leak down test but hopefully will tomorrow. I don’t see why the problem would just stop like it has. Does that give any clues? I wish I had more info.
Thanks for the guidance. I’ll keep on testing down the list on the link.
Alright so I drove to work today and noticed some new issued. The first thing I noticed was when I pressed on the break, I heard two repeating click noises spaced about 2 seconds apart. The second click put pressure back on my break peddle. When I started driving, I think it began miss firing. It would, for about a second, lose pressure, the check engine light would flash on and the rpms would drop about 500 and speedometer would drop about 5mph. This would last for less than a second and usually begin at about 3500 rpms. It must be a head gasket. I replaced the spark plugs when I changed the timing belt. I also added a new gasket to the oil pan and valve cover because they were both leaking. Maybe all this additional sealing of the engine and added pressure from properly firing spark plugs (the ones I was using we terribly corroded, to the point where I could hardly see the leads at all) might have caused the head gasket to blow? The car does currently have 290,000 mile on it. I’m going to do a compression test and see which cylinder it is. How difficult is changing the head gasket?
Alright so I drove to work today and noticed some new issued. The first thing I noticed was when I pressed on the break, I heard two repeating click noises spaced about 2 seconds apart. The second click put pressure back on my break peddle. When I started driving, I think it began miss firing. It would, for about a second, lose pressure, the check engine light would flash on and the rpms would drop about 500 and speedometer would drop about 5mph. This would last for less than a second and usually begin at about 3500 rpms. It must be a head gasket. I replaced the spark plugs when I changed the timing belt. I also added a new gasket to the oil pan and valve cover because they were both leaking. Maybe all this additional sealing of the engine and added pressure from properly firing spark plugs (the ones I was using we terribly corroded, to the point where I could hardly see the leads at all) might have caused the head gasket to blow? The car does currently have 290,000 mile on it. I’m going to do a compression test and see which cylinder it is. How difficult is changing the head gasket?
I just drove home and noticed the smoke was less than it was yesterday. I checked the coolant and it does appear to be a little lower than when I filled it last week. How to I check if its running rich? The exhaust does smell a bit heavy with gas, but not like its burning oil. It doesn’t sound like its misfiring or have any problems mechanically, no shaking or anything.
I just drove home and noticed the smoke was less than it was yesterday. I checked the coolant and it does appear to be a little lower than when I filled it last week. How to I check if its running rich? The exhaust does smell a bit heavy with gas, but not like its burning oil. It doesn’t sound like its misfiring or have any problems mechanically, no shaking or anything.
No noises and I haven’t noticed any loss of fluids so far. I’ll keep an eye on the levels. Could I have caused it during my water pump replacement because I didn’t notice this before?