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November 17, 2016 at 12:08 am in reply to: Clunking sound from front passengers side when hit #872130
Would a broken motor mount cause alot of vibration while driving? I just had all my tires changed and balanced but my driving vibration is still very bad. The guy at the tire shop said I have a bent tire but he said he balanced it to 0. But it still has vibration when driving.
November 15, 2016 at 9:12 pm in reply to: Clunking sound from front passengers side when hit #872080I think that’s it. I noticed that the motor mount looked smashed and was thinking about replacing it. But I didn’t realize that could cause the noise. Thank you!!
It worked perfectly after I bench bled the master cylinder. I have a new problem. I drove the car around to be sure everything was working properly. I then checked the the line to be sure there’s no leaks. Well the brass nut that attaches the clutch line to the slave cylinder is now leaking. When I attached it I made special care not to double thread the connection. But it is leaking out of there. Do I need to use plumbers tape or did I most likely strip the nut? And If I did, what do I do to fix that?
I watched the video and it was indeed the master cylinder. I replaced it and the slave cylinder. I spent 2.5 hours with a friend trying to bleed the system and nothing happened at all. What am I doing wrong. I lossen and press, tighten and pull over and over but the reservoir never dropped or showed that fluid was leaving it. What could I be doing wrong? It seems so simple.
The brake fluid in the old master cylinder was clean before I replaced it. I haven’t tried to adjust the brakes like that so I think I’ll give that a try.
I bled the brakes properly and bled until there was no air at all coming out of the lines. And I think I went through three of the medium sized containers just to be sure. However I may not have bench bled the master cylinder correctly as I only did it for about 5 mins. I watch a youtube video of a guy bleeding one like mine and he said it could take up to 30 mins of constant pumping to get all the air out of it. I’ll have to.check that out as well. And the wheel cylinders are not too expensive so I might just replace all of them if I still have problems.
I checked the wheel cylinders and I didn’t see any problems. None were stuck and both sides operated the same. I checked the brakes lines, especially the rubber tubing, and I didn’t see any moisture. But there may be a micro leak somewhere I cannot see. I did replace all the fluid in the lines when I replaced the master cylinder. But I haven’t replaced the flex hose ever so it may be letting some moisture in somewhere. I’ll change the hoses just to see if that improves anything.
Sorry for my incorrect terminology. By calipers I meant wheel cylinders and by pads I meant brake shoes. I tried to accelerate then slam on the brakes to see if it would get stiffer/better but the car wouldn’t lock up at all and it didn’t change the braking power. As far as bleeding goes, I’ve bled it three times since I put the new master cylinder on. Thats why I’m stumped. I suppose I could bleed them again. No harm in it right.
That does sound plausible. I’ll give it a try and see what happens before I change the fluid out.
Yep that’s the first thing I checked. Then I checked the vacuum line and I looked alright. No cracks or leaks. I know very little about transmissions so I’m not sure where else to check. Maybe I’ll change out the fluid and filter.
Alright so I’m a bit embarrassed to say but I think it was just corrosion around the connections. I did not see any but I took the connectors off and washed them with vinegar and scrubbed them down very well. Then I put them back on and the car started. This would make sense as the problem stopped after I had the battery tested at o’reilly’s. When I took it off I cleaned the connectors off to be tested. Then the problem stopped. What is causing the corrosion to build up so quickly? Thanks everyone!
Alright so I’m a bit embarrassed to say but I think it was just corrosion around the connections. I did not see any but I took the connectors off and washed them with vinegar and scrubbed them down very well. Then I put them back on and the car started. This would make sense as the problem stopped after I had the battery tested at o’reilly’s. When I took it off I cleaned the connectors off to be tested. Then the problem stopped. What is causing the corrosion to build up so quickly? Thanks everyone!
That’s the direction I’m thinking but would the ignition switch cause a draw on all the power? When I lock my doors, it doesn’t have the energy to even activate all the locks, or roll up the windows, or even light the dome light. And that’s without the key being engaged. It only gets worse when the key is turned. I would say its a bad battery but the battery tested good and the connections are good as well. Is there something that controls the power supply to the car from the battery that’s located under the dash?
That’s the direction I’m thinking but would the ignition switch cause a draw on all the power? When I lock my doors, it doesn’t have the energy to even activate all the locks, or roll up the windows, or even light the dome light. And that’s without the key being engaged. It only gets worse when the key is turned. I would say its a bad battery but the battery tested good and the connections are good as well. Is there something that controls the power supply to the car from the battery that’s located under the dash?
I had the battery tested a about a month ago when this problem first occurred and they said it was fine. I’ve also checked the terminals. That was the first thing I checked and they are very tight. I don’t know if this is useful information but I can’t push start the car when its doing this, like I can when the battery is dead. Could it be the ignition switch? Could I post a video of the sound and the actions of the problem and where the noises are coming from? Would that be helpful?
Thanks!I had the battery tested a about a month ago when this problem first occurred and they said it was fine. I’ve also checked the terminals. That was the first thing I checked and they are very tight. I don’t know if this is useful information but I can’t push start the car when its doing this, like I can when the battery is dead. Could it be the ignition switch? Could I post a video of the sound and the actions of the problem and where the noises are coming from? Would that be helpful?
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