[6speeddakota]

So the problem ended being caused by a bad blower motor, it was drawing far too much juice, melted the connector and shorted the two pins together, which the short to ground ended up frying the blower pack resistor/transistor unit.

So if you have a bad blower motor, bench test it, if it doesn’t work, replace it, and if it still doesn’t work, it probably took out the blower pack resistor as well. I did a bunch of tests on it as per mitchell on demand, and that resulted in the condemnation of the BPR as well.

Man these cars are expensive to fix, and I even have 30% off at my local parts store

[6speeddakota]

So the problem ended being caused by a bad blower motor, it was drawing far too much juice, melted the connector and shorted the two pins together, which the short to ground ended up frying the blower pack resistor/transistor unit.

So if you have a bad blower motor, bench test it, if it doesn’t work, replace it, and if it still doesn’t work, it probably took out the blower pack resistor as well. I did a bunch of tests on it as per mitchell on demand, and that resulted in the condemnation of the BPR as well.

Man these cars are expensive to fix, and I even have 30% off at my local parts store

[6speeddakota]

Ok, so here’s the update, I replaced the motor because it was shorted, the new one didn’t work when I plugged it in. I noticed that the connector was melted so badly that the pins were actually touching each other, causing a direct short to ground, I replaced the connector with new terminals, AND STILL NOTHING, AARGH!!!! So I jumped the ground side of the motor to ground and it runs at full bore all the time.

By bypassing the blower pack resistor, the motor runs. The blower speed control is on the ground side of the blower fan, so the climate control always delivers power to the motor with the key on, and it applies a ground to the motor by activating a transistor in the blower pack resistor.

Since there was a direct short through the BPR, I believe that the large amount of current fried the BPR, hence bypassing it resulted in the motor running.

I’m going to test it today to see if the BPR is indeed fried as well

[6speeddakota]

Ok, so here’s the update, I replaced the motor because it was shorted, the new one didn’t work when I plugged it in. I noticed that the connector was melted so badly that the pins were actually touching each other, causing a direct short to ground, I replaced the connector with new terminals, AND STILL NOTHING, AARGH!!!! So I jumped the ground side of the motor to ground and it runs at full bore all the time.

By bypassing the blower pack resistor, the motor runs. The blower speed control is on the ground side of the blower fan, so the climate control always delivers power to the motor with the key on, and it applies a ground to the motor by activating a transistor in the blower pack resistor.

Since there was a direct short through the BPR, I believe that the large amount of current fried the BPR, hence bypassing it resulted in the motor running.

I’m going to test it today to see if the BPR is indeed fried as well

[6speeddakota]

I actually posted this before the car was in my posession, the kid who owns it had just bought it and it wasn’t very well taken care of because all of the lights were actually burned out, I replaced them and they are working just fine, thanks a ton from everyone who contributed, I really appreciate the input

[6speeddakota]

the dimmer works, the gear indicator and the radio lights dim but the , gauge lights just don’t work. Also has factory stereo

[Author]

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