[671tamuning]

A1 certified, I feel pretty proud of myself…

I wanted to take the A7(HVAC) also but, I could only afford the one test but,it was well worth it.

A good 5 of the questions had to deal with vacuum gauge fluctuations.

My advice to anyone whose planning on taking this test, study up on diagnostics vacuum gauge, oil pressure readings, compression, leak down testing, etc.

Looking over the test results I messed up about half of the diagnostic questions and aced the rest so, I’m currently reviewing on that right now.

All I need now is the 2 year work experience to get my patch and stuff. I’m planning on taking more tests in the future.

[671tamuning]

Thank you dreamer and rick!!

[671tamuning]

Quoted From Alex_talley:

I do most general replacement parts like brakes and such from auto zone because they do a 10% military discount

+1

I do the same too. It works for NAPA also but, it depends on the parts guy AND most dealerships..

[671tamuning]

MATCO, Last December they were offering us students a 60% off versus the regular 50-52% for example, I purchased a brake tool set from matco for $50 can’t beat that anywhere else I guarantee you it was normally $60, and its REAL easy to sign up. When I signed up with snap-on’s SEP program.

I had to wait a few days before the rep confirmed us as students. With MATCO you could pretty much get a discount on anything they sell, snap-on’s selection is limited to what you could get a discount on. Nothing against Snap-on they’re great, it’s just I’ve been picking matco more and they have decent customer service.

As far as tools, I would recommend Craftsman, Kobalt, Harbor Freight, Duralast, to start off… Stanley is good but a lot of their items now are 2 year or 3 year warranty.

Places to buy tools, Craigslist, ebay, swap meet/flea markets, pawn shops, yard sales.

Just start small and then build it up from there. Basically since you work at wal-mart I would buy the biggest stanley mechanics set they offer, if memory serves me right i believe it was $80? And then just build up on that set.

[671tamuning]

Quoted From dreamer2355:

You get what you pay for when it comes to automotive parts.

I prefer OEM parts from the dealer C8-)

I agree.

What’s funny is that before I actually make the purchase I’ll check the dealer first AND i’ve found that on some occasions it costs less at the dealer or a few dollars more, then I’d go for them.

Thanks for the input.

[671tamuning]

THANKS !!!

[671tamuning]

A picture would be nice, thanks for the tip!!

[671tamuning]

Quoted From CAdc2:

I plan on entering the automotive program at my community college as soon as I free up the time. Should be the next semester if all goes well. It has a great track record with its program so even though its not UTI or Wyotech, it isn’t going to somehow put me in a disadvantage. I would agree that you should check how good the program at the school is.

Community College, $3,000 – $5,000.

UTI, $30,000.

You decide.

[671tamuning]

I checked out that video already, thanks and that’s why I suspect a wheel bearing.
I just want to know if there is any other possible components that could also produce the same sound.

It sounds more of a squeaking sound.

I didn’t feel any vibration on the steering wheel.
I even rotated the wheels to make sure it’s not a tire or wheel issue, no changes to sound.

When I let go while accelerating it pulled slightly to the left.

When I hit a dip I didn’t hear any ‘clunk’ sound.

When I steer right I would hear the sound more especially if it is a sharp turn, but no clunking or loud thump sounds just the ‘loose wheel or squeaking noise’.

unfortunately, there was no speed bumps in my area (only a couple of dips) to test that portion of the suspension. ALSO I only checked the front wheels but, not the rear, if it was a rear wheel bearing which i doubt…

Thanks to all, please keep up the info.

Should I also recommend him an alignment?

[671tamuning]

Quoted From dreamer2355:

I have to completely disagree with you.

With advancements in automotive technology these days, you do need an education in all the fields of the automotive vehicle.

Anyone can replace parts, but it takes highly skilled and trained people to diagnose issues correctly, particularly when it pertains to electrical diagnosis.

The ability to be able to read and understand PID data and wave forms is crucial in my opinion for todays technicians.

I wasn’t being serious…

I thought you guys could have seen that my reply was just a joke.

Echo could have answered his own question.

I’m 1 year in tech school and I’m planning on taking my first ASE test next time they have it, I missed it this past fall but no biggie, I’ll wait for the next one.

Relax, let the good times roll.

[671tamuning]

member for which one?

sam’s club, you just walk into any sam’s club and say you want to be a member or if you have a friend that has a membership with them, tag along and buy the jack, so you don’t have to buy the membership. But, hurry because I believe that this jack is only seasonal so, I’m not sure if they’ll have it for much longer.

for craftsman, two ways, go into any sears at checkout tell the cashier you want to be a craftsman club member OR my way is just go to craftsman.com and sign up, it’s free and then they send you a shopyourwayrewards card so you can rack up points for purchases.

I buy my stands from harbor freight also, if you receive ads in the mail, they give you coupons for a lot of tools. I bought a “rapid pump” jack from them once, it failed on me, first use, i returned it, no hassle. so, I went and invested in a more quality jack. Walmart, also has good deals on 3 ton jacks.

[671tamuning]

Nah, you don’t need school.

[671tamuning]

keep the 3 ton brother, unless you have issues with it….

+1 with what skim said i do the same thing for a friends rsx, which is slammed to the ground. but also to other lowered vehicles.

[671tamuning]

whats up sarah, if your a craftsman club member they send you an email letting you know of some exclusive club member deals.

There’s one coming up in 2 weeks, They do a sale for a week. then you gotta wait again for another sale.

Sometimes, I’ll see a 3 ton floor jack for $60 on sale regularly $80.

Personally my floor jack I purchased from Sam’s club for $70 its a Torin Big Red 3.5 ton. Totally decent without breaking the bank. NO problems with it, I recommend it.

Don’t ask me how high it can lift cause I never measured the highest point.

I have an older 2.5 ton from walmart that i still use, i’ve abused that quite a bit and still works great.

hope that helps…

[671tamuning]

if you’re in a pinch and you’re in the middle of nowhere and the closest place only has the green stuff then go for it, otherwise i would stick to oem lubricants.

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