[671tamuning]

[i]
When in ON, I don’t hear the pump “prime”.
Ok You say you have power to the pump on crank and you have a good earth but have you actually heard the pump run at all? Thought about putting battery voltage on the pump supply as a test just to make sure it goes or whether it’s so quiet you can’t hear it? The engine should still be able to start if the pump was actually working during cranking[/i]

While in ON, Pump is totally quiet, nothing at all.

While cranking nothing at all as well, I dont hear it or feel any movement as it should when the its powered.

This is a New Denso pump from the Toyota Dealership, I haven’t tried direct battery power yet, since I don’t want it to run dry. I’d hate to create a spark while it’s submerged in fuel. That would suck…

I’ll post wiring diagram soon

[671tamuning]

[i]
When in ON, I don’t hear the pump “prime”.
Ok You say you have power to the pump on crank and you have a good earth but have you actually heard the pump run at all? Thought about putting battery voltage on the pump supply as a test just to make sure it goes or whether it’s so quiet you can’t hear it? The engine should still be able to start if the pump was actually working during cranking[/i]

While in ON, Pump is totally quiet, nothing at all.

While cranking nothing at all as well, I dont hear it or feel any movement as it should when the its powered.

This is a New Denso pump from the Toyota Dealership, I haven’t tried direct battery power yet, since I don’t want it to run dry. I’d hate to create a spark while it’s submerged in fuel. That would suck…

I’ll post wiring diagram soon

[671tamuning]

[quote=”deckchair” post=56429]Bear in mind that the pump will only get power for the first couple of secs in the ON position, so if you’re checking for electrical power after that then you won’t see any. You’d need to be there already hooked up and have someone turn the key to catch it at the initial ON turn

Check your fuses, sometimes different ones for fuel pump supply ign ON and START

You say “earth is good” but is it? If you have 10v at the pump only on crank then pump should deliver fuel and engine start but then stall when you released the key. Check voltage drop between the pump earth terminal and a good ground when ignition just immediately turned ON and try also in the START position. Of course, there should be near 0v. If your seeing battery voltage then the pump ground is not good. Similarly you could do a resistance check between pump earth terminal and a good ground[/quote]

Yes I had someone turn it in the ON position, while I checked with a test light and the DMM, I get nothing.

Only when they cranked it do I get any reading on the DMM or the test light to come on.

When I’m on ground I get nothing. In the ON or Crank. I checked ground with test light while on battery + and it lit up on ground side of fuel pump. While cranking it’s still off.

When in ON, I don’t hear the pump “prime”.

When I crank, voltage at the pump is less than 10v around 9 – 9.8 It barely touched 10v but, still nothing.

thanks for the responses.

[671tamuning]

[quote=”deckchair” post=56429]Bear in mind that the pump will only get power for the first couple of secs in the ON position, so if you’re checking for electrical power after that then you won’t see any. You’d need to be there already hooked up and have someone turn the key to catch it at the initial ON turn

Check your fuses, sometimes different ones for fuel pump supply ign ON and START

You say “earth is good” but is it? If you have 10v at the pump only on crank then pump should deliver fuel and engine start but then stall when you released the key. Check voltage drop between the pump earth terminal and a good ground when ignition just immediately turned ON and try also in the START position. Of course, there should be near 0v. If your seeing battery voltage then the pump ground is not good. Similarly you could do a resistance check between pump earth terminal and a good ground[/quote]

Yes I had someone turn it in the ON position, while I checked with a test light and the DMM, I get nothing.

Only when they cranked it do I get any reading on the DMM or the test light to come on.

When I’m on ground I get nothing. In the ON or Crank. I checked ground with test light while on battery + and it lit up on ground side of fuel pump. While cranking it’s still off.

When in ON, I don’t hear the pump “prime”.

When I crank, voltage at the pump is less than 10v around 9 – 9.8 It barely touched 10v but, still nothing.

thanks for the responses.

[671tamuning]

I personally have both pneumatic and that 18v dewalt cordless impact you’re talking about..

I’m not a professional tech, but I’ve taken some schooling in automotive.

Air tools are the way to go if you’re looking for power and longevity.

I have a husky 26 gallon air compressor and the harbor freight “earthquake” impact wrenches both the 1/2 and the 3/8 drives.

I haven’t had any problems with’m in the 2 years I’ve owned them. I use them about once a week average.

The Dewalt 18v impact wrench I’ve had it for about a year and I haven’t had any problems with it. it’s an awesome tool, though a bit pricey, I mainly use it for my tire rotations and basically anywhere else on the vehicle I can fit it. It’s a pretty big tool and a bit heavy. I’ve also used it also for travel repairs for some friends and coworkers of mine.

But, it depends on your budget as well, That IR cordless impact is pretty steep..

[671tamuning]

I personally have both pneumatic and that 18v dewalt cordless impact you’re talking about..

I’m not a professional tech, but I’ve taken some schooling in automotive.

Air tools are the way to go if you’re looking for power and longevity.

I have a husky 26 gallon air compressor and the harbor freight “earthquake” impact wrenches both the 1/2 and the 3/8 drives.

I haven’t had any problems with’m in the 2 years I’ve owned them. I use them about once a week average.

The Dewalt 18v impact wrench I’ve had it for about a year and I haven’t had any problems with it. it’s an awesome tool, though a bit pricey, I mainly use it for my tire rotations and basically anywhere else on the vehicle I can fit it. It’s a pretty big tool and a bit heavy. I’ve also used it also for travel repairs for some friends and coworkers of mine.

But, it depends on your budget as well, That IR cordless impact is pretty steep..

[671tamuning]

Quoted From Jhowe93:

get a windshield visor, since you cant legally tint it, when you park, just set it up and it reflects the heat away.

yes…technically my tint level is illegal. But the summer heat here in vegas gets up to 120 degrees. The police usually turn a blind eye on such dark tint.

They really only do something if they pull you over for something else like speeding then they’ll add it to your citation.

As for my A/C, yes it still works but it’s a quad cab and plus when it gets as hot as it does here. the A/C has a hard time.

[671tamuning]

i borrowed my ase study guides from the public library. Check if your local library has one because they do get expensive…

I took the A1 and passed. It really helped to study even just a little skip the parts you already know…

[671tamuning]

I got mine at sam’s club for $70 it’s a torin 3.5 ton. I’m not sure if they are still carrying it though. I remember it was a seasonal item.

I’ve had no issues with it so far ive had it for almost a year now. i keep the gears greased and the wheels lubricated once a week.

I’ve purchased a rapid pump from harbor freight and when testing it, it wouldn’t go down…I returned it.

[671tamuning]

Thanks for the comment beefy!

I know you’ll be fine, I asked around some other guys and they said the hardest when they probably took was the A3(manual drive train and axles).

I havent taken that subject yet in school so, I don’t know what to say with that.

My instructor told me that when he took his L1, doors didn’t open for him they FLEW open! He said with the L1 cert. they want you and that you have your pick of the crop.

My next one I’m hoping to take this year is A7 and A6.

Good Luck!

[671tamuning]

I like kobalt. Snap-on’s too expensive even with the student pricing…

I have a friend who thinks kobalt is owned by snap-on.

He always says I have a snap-on torque wrench, then I check it out and it’s kobalt but, he says it’s still snap-on.

I tried to inform him that Matco is sister company with kobalt under the danaher corporation(according to the tool guy) but, whatever. Ignorance is bliss I guess….

[671tamuning]

thank you Beefy and dreamer!!

i appreciate the comments!

[671tamuning]

I use this stuff…I havent had any issues with it. Is this all right?

http://www.permatex.com/products/automo … ormula.htm

[671tamuning]

Quoted From gaseousmercury:

I personally have not used Permatex Brand silicone; I use 3M, the same as Eric. I will have to get a can of permatex and try it out. If you haven’t had problems wit it, keep using it. Refresh it when you do your brakes next. Brake Kleen will disolve the residual silicone and grime. Use extreme caution when using Brake Kleen aroud the rubber seals because it will degrade it. Such rubber parts show substantial resistance to the acetone in Brake Kleen. Be safe…..

I use brake cleaner on the metal parts of the brakes only but, thanks for the tip.

I picked the permatex because, I can’t find the 3M stuff anywhere besides amazon so, that’s why I stuck with it.

I get it on discount from pepboys or carquest I can’t remember how much it was but, I know it was less than $10 with tax.

[671tamuning]

check out your local goodwill stores, I bought a professional computer table for $50 and another $10 for a small filing cabinet I use for holding chemicals(it even had a lock and key).

It was $70 total with tax.

Then i just added my vise and hopefully a bench grinder when I save up some money.

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