Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Remove the lower cover so you can access the torque convertor. grab the convertor and try to turn it by hand. have someone watch the lower crank pulley . if you can turn the convertor either way slightly and get no movement from the lower crank pulley then you have a prob with the flex plate. they crack around the bolt holes were it mounts to the back of the crank shaft. as you twist the convertor you may here a cracking sound from that area as well. this sometimes sounds like a rod bearing going out.
First remove the upper engine mount ( the one bolting the engine to the radiator support ) next take a ratchet strap and attach it to the engine and then the radiator support. use this to pull the engine twords the radiator support. it will move some but don’t try and pull it to far. this will give you more clearance between the rear of the engine and the firewall. then you can access the plugs from the top. the best plug sockets to use are the double swivel ones but I have only seen them sold on the tool trucks ( mine are snap-on = pricey lol ) a standard plug socket and a single swivel plug socket ( both available at any parts store ) plus a variety of different length extensions and some patience will get the job done. here is a trick I use- I got a cheap visor mirror ( walmart ) and removed the clips from the back. glued some magnets to it and then stick it to the firewall. helps you to see back there and keeps both hands free.
Posting the brand name and weight capacity of the jack will be very helpful. I also recommend you head over to the site- garagejournal.com ( I am a member there under the same screen name- 619diofan ) there is a section in the tool area of the forum dedicated to hydraulic jacks. a member there is the mack daddy when it comes to repairing them. very good resource.
If you have oil inside the lower area of the intake then the lower intake plenum gasket is blown. it is still a good idea to cover all the bases by testing everything but 2nd gen rams are notorious for the intake prob. issues with # 8 cyl /plug are usually evidence of this as well as the oil inside the intake. if you do the intake repair get the upgrade kit from hughes engines. the kit comes with everything needed and will prevent the prob from happening again.
When you last changed the plugs what was their condition ? any oil fouling ? remove the air cleaner housing and open the throttle body plate and with a good flashlight look down into the intake manifold. if you see oil pooling in the lower area of the intake then you have a blown lower plenum plate gasket ( will be surprised if there is no oil ) this is a very common prob with second gen rams. when this happens oil is pulled into the intake and then into the cyls were it is burned which can cause a misfire. this will not set a code. also on the second gen rams the ecm/pcms tend to fail ( another common prob ) will start as intermittent missing then progress to stalling and shutting off. I would start with the lower plenum inspection first.
When you last changed the plugs what was their condition ? any oil fouling ? remove the air cleaner housing and open the throttle body plate and with a good flashlight look down into the intake manifold. if you see oil pooling in the lower area of the intake then you have a blown lower plenum plate gasket ( will be surprised if there is no oil ) this is a very common prob with second gen rams. when this happens oil is pulled into the intake and then into the cyls were it is burned which can cause a misfire. this will not set a code. also on the second gen rams the ecm/pcms tend to fail ( another common prob ) will start as intermittent missing then progress to stalling and shutting off. I would start with the lower plenum inspection first.
Floor jack with a piece of 3/4 plywood will be fine . have used this method in the past to drop turbo 350 , 400 trans and torque flights. far heavier then what you have. no trans pan damage. if possible wrap a ratchet strap around the trans and attach it to the jack .
Floor jack with a piece of 3/4 plywood will be fine . have used this method in the past to drop turbo 350 , 400 trans and torque flights. far heavier then what you have. no trans pan damage. if possible wrap a ratchet strap around the trans and attach it to the jack .
If you can get a Jasper trans I would go that route. Jasper only sells to shops so you will need to have one order it for you.
If you can get a Jasper trans I would go that route. Jasper only sells to shops so you will need to have one order it for you.
If you can take the car to a parts store they will test the charging system on the car. if you have a dvom you can test the alt output with car running by setting the meter to volt test and touching the leads to the batt terminals at the batt ( red to pos black to neg ) make sure to have the batt load tested ( parts store can do this as well ) a bad batt will not hold a charge.
If you can take the car to a parts store they will test the charging system on the car. if you have a dvom you can test the alt output with car running by setting the meter to volt test and touching the leads to the batt terminals at the batt ( red to pos black to neg ) make sure to have the batt load tested ( parts store can do this as well ) a bad batt will not hold a charge.
Make sure you have a fresh tune on the motor. cap , wires, plugs , oil change and air filter ( you would be amazed how this helps )check for a low idle miss ( vac leak ) especially check tb to intake mount gasket ( like to burn out at the rear of the tb ) make sure to get the cat good and hot before having the test ( 30 to 45 mins of freeway driving ) of course you are in the LA area so you may not get too far on the freeway in that time LOL , I am in so cal ( sandiego ) so I can relate. fact is cali is making it harder every year for older vehicles to pass .