Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I don’t want to take my door panel off to get to the mirrior that would be too much trouble. I was trying to see if I can somehow use the same wire. It’s not worth it if I have to take the mirrior off.
I’m willing to do some “crafty wiring modifications”. I thought about maybe using a diode on each wire then putting a step down resistor to step down the 12v-6v on the running light side and then tame the wires together. but I have no clue how one of those works. Do you need to hook up the ground wire to the unit or can I hook it up to the car?
thanks all yall for your help! I just got a check engine light when I went to go start my truck and they are P0100 maf sensor malfunction, and P0110 iat sensor malfunction. my question now is do those codes have anything to do with each other? and where is the iat located I think it is on the maf sensor..
judging by the picks what if you just applied the parking brake and then put a screw driver or something to keep the hook from sliding back then release the parking brake.
If it was a vacuum leak why would it smooth out when the engine is warm? and if it was a sensor problem why would I not have a check engine light now?
Thanks yall for your time. my STFT numbers where -13 at idle when I reved the engine they droped as low as -1 then jumped back up to around -7 and was kinda going haywire. one the engine got warmer my numbers where -7 at idle of 1,000 rpms. then when I reved it would drop to -1. Both times when I let off the accelerator it would drop to 0. I forgot to mention that a month ago it was doing the same thing and I got a check engine light when I was driving down the road. I looked at the code and it was one of my O2 sensors telling me the system was lean I cleaned the MAF sensor and erased the code saw the code 1 week later and I erased it. haven’t seen it sense.
Like I said I replaced the idle control valve which is the same as the IAC and it doesn’t have a fast idle valve.