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Anyone have tricks for replacing 1410 U-Joints? When I went to do this the caps are so long, they only press part of the way out of the yoke and I could not grab the caps and pull then out the rest of the way. they were also very tight in the yoke.
I got p***ed at them and just cut the trunion out with a plasma cutter, then pushed the caps through.sounds like a fuel supply issue. Could be partly/rusted fuel lines or even a small crack or pinhole allowing air to get sucked into the fuel line. Maybe a clogged fuel pickup in the tank?
Had that issue with a bad/cracked rubber line connection the tank pickup.
Easy way to test is just disconnect and plug original fuel line, then rig up a temporary fuel supply to the carb (Gravity fed, or electric pump from a gas can?)
If that works (you might want to just jump to this step) run a rubber fuel line from the gas can into the stock pump. If that works, you know the problems are before the fuel pump.The EFI throttle body usually has an idle bypass adjustment to set a base idle speed because it takes a small amount of time for the idle air control to trim the idle after closing the throttle.
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=176095][quote=”451Mopar” post=176094]I also used the replacement flat panel version in a 1997 Chrysler Concord 3.5L, and never had any problems with the engine in the car. The transmission finally went out with 230,000 miles on the car..[/quote]
I have a 97 Intrepid 3.5 that i still drive to this day.
Did you ever pull out the air silencer out of the intake tube?
That silencer choked the 3 inch intake down to an 1 1/4 but after i removed it the engine really woke up and it really surprised me how much more throttle the car had after.[/quote]
Yes, I removed the silencer. That was a good car, but did develop a starting issue in very cold weather, like 10 degrees or below. It never threw a code, and I think it may have been caused when they started putting 10-15% Ethenol in the fuel here. I replaced the temp sensor, but had the same issues. Luckly, there was a simple solution, Disconnect the temp sensor to put it in limp mode, then it would start. Reconnect temp sensor and no problems unless the car sat overnight on a very cold day.
I think it really needed a computer re-flash for the change in the amount of ethenol in the fuel.I started using K&N filters in the 1980’s when I had an off-road truck and was replacing the paper air filters several times a year. With the K&N filter I could wash it out, re-oil and re-use the same filter. That was the big selling point for me.
I also used the replacement flat panel version in a 1997 Chrysler Concord 3.5L, and never had any problems with the engine in the car. The transmission finally went out with 230,000 miles on the car.
I also use the K&N filter(s), 3″ tall 14″ round plus the filtered lid, on my 1971 Charger with a 700+ HP, 500″ stroker engine because my hood clearance limits the size of the filter, and the engine does need alot of airflow (using a 1050 cfm carb.)My commuter cars with small engines, 2.0L and 2.4L, both have pretty large filters for the engine size, and I use the Wix brand filters, replacing the filters about once a year.
The big difference is the tires material (softer rubber) and siping.
If you have low profile tires on large rims, it may be an option to use a smaller diameter rim (needs to fit brakes), and then use a tire with a higher sidewall to get back to the original tires diameter. This is not specific for traction, but the potholes and rough road conditions caused by the snow and ice. Also, if you get stuck, it will allow you to deflate the tires and gain a larger tire contact patch. The downside is slightly less responsive handling on dry roads.I still buy parts from them, and they also send out E-mails with closeout parts for my cars which are usually deeply discounted.
It is just the shipping / warehouse thing that drives me crazy, but I can see why it happens. I’m just used to Amazon prime (yearly fee and free 2-day shipping on most items) and Summit Racing ($99 order and free shipping.)My wifes car and my daughters car both use the same oil filter, so I just bought a case of the Wix heavy duty filters. I may cut one open to see how it compares to the others shown in theon-line videos.
been awhile, but is the #1 cylinder the front passenger side?
If it is, it should be fairly easy to get the the spark plug hole to do a compression and leakdown test (if you have a leakdown tester?
This would give insight to the ring and valve seat seal, and maybe the head gasket too.I would check the connections to the injectors too. The connectors can become brittle with age and crack.
For the price, the 500-piece kit looks nice.
If your a tech student you can get the 540-piece set for 50% off the list price Or about $649.
That is how I got my set.
I was actually taking welding classes at Lincoln Tech, but it qualified.
Snap-On and MAC also have 50% off tech student discounts.
Here is a link to my introduction post, and it has a link to a video of my cluttered garage, but shows the 540 tools.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/3-New-Member-Introduction/64132-451mopar-new-here-from-coFor the really large combination wrench sets not included in the sets, I found E-Bay has sellers that have the Craftsman large wrench sets (non-polished type.) Also, Harbor Freight has a decent large wrench set that should be fine for non-professional use as it is not often I need a 1″ or larger combination wrench.
For wobble extension sets, I bought some GearWrench brand off Amazon that I am happy with.
Don’t buy the Harbor Freight version, they are junk.
My friend had the Snap-On version that I like, but it is almost 10x the cost.
For torque wrenches, I like the CDI brand. This is a Snap-On company. Do a web search to find best prices.
Micro/click type 10ft-100ft 3/8″ drive CDI 1002MRPH (plastic / comfort handle) 1002MRMH (straight steel handle) About $120 – general purpose
Micro/click type 30ft-250ft 1/2″ drive CDI 2503MRPH / 2503MRMH About $160 – Larger fasteners, has longer handle for leverage.
Dial Torque wrench, dual scale 0-300 in/lb 3/8″ drive CDI 3002LDIN About $150 – Might not need unless working transmission/differentials?Wobble impact sockets are nice to have too, but usually not used much by DIY.
When is the engine series coming out?
I love the videos, and like that you don’t edit out problems that need to be resolved.
Keep up the great work.You might expand on the video, by using a dual or triple valve spring to explain why you need the outer and inner dimensions, plus show valve seat cups, locators and shims and why they are used.
As for the valve job, yes it will sink the valve into the head slightly. Usually a shim is used between the valve spring seat, and the valve spring to bring the spring install height (and pressure) back into spec. The valve train (rocker adjustment and/or hydraulic lifter) can usually compensate for the small change in the valve tip height.
The transmission needing to be rebuilt around 100,000 miles is a known issue, but the 3.3L engine is pretty good. The older Mitsu 3.0 had valve stem seal issues, but not the 3.3L. I’d do a compression/leakdown test and check that the PCV valve or bad gasket is not sucking oil into the cylinders, but this would likely show oil in all the cylinders? I don’t recall if the lower intake manifold is exposed to the engine oil (I think it is?) so it could be a bad manifold gasket allowing oil to be sucked into only one chamber?