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When you first start the truck (cold) the voltage gauge will usually be around 12 to 13-volts when the grid heater is on. Put the truck in gear and drive down the street to give it a a good amount of throttle so it builds boost (Heat) and the grid heater should shut off and the voltage gauge should show just over 14-volts.
Hopefully it is not an injector problem, that can get expensive.
I would try a bottle of the Red-line Diesel fuel additive “85-plus”, it does seem to clean pretty good.
Note: the Red line “diesel fuel catalyst” is the same as the “85-plus”.https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=31&pcid=11
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-70802/overview/Good video.
With many of these intake/exhaust bolt on parts, the amount of gain or loss depends on several factors.
1. If the original part was too restrictive in the first place, then the aftermarket part may increase power because of less restriction.
2. If the original part was designed correctly, then an aftermarket part may not show any gain.
3. If the original part was not “tuned” correctly for the engines power band, then changes in intake runner length, or exhaust tube length may make more (or less) power. I mention this because most newer engines are designed with fairly well tuned intakes and exhausts, and many of the aftermarket parts are designed to be used with modified engines (different cams, compression, head flow, and such.)Anyhow, I’m trying to say, it depends on what your starting point is.
Also, as mentioned in #3, some aftermarket parts are designed to work with a stock or near stock engine, while others may be designed for the racer who is totally re-engineering the engine and drivetrain.[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=177003]Many of these are the truth, but not the whole truth. So general information is generally true. Just like you can have two cams, both with the same lift and duration, even LSA, and they can be totally different due to the shape of the lobe.
[/quote]A agree with what you are saying, except you need to mention the lift and duration is the “Advertised”, or taken at just the one point. If the two cams did have the same lift and duration at all the points of the lobe, then they would be the same.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=176840]What drives me nuts is when people tell me you stroke an engine by adding longer rods. :pinch:[/quote]
First I heard of that one, but funny.
There seems to be many based on cams, carbs, and exhaust, like there is a magical version that is way better than all the rest.
I used to use wheel ramps (Front) and jack stands (solid rear axle), but now I have a 4-post lift 🙂
A good technical document from Chevron on gasoline:
https://www.chevron.com/-/media/chevron/operations/documents/motor-gas-tech-review.pdf
For me, the DIY user, Craftsman tools were sort of the standard most people have because of decent quality and cost, but lately I’m not sure if their quality is getting worse, or the competition is just getting better. I have a few Craftsman sockets where the chrome is flaking off, broken Torx bits, and in a few “kits” unstamped phillips bit (looks like a bullet), and duplicate sockets (Two 12-point, s/b one 12-point and one 6-point sockets in kit.)
Seems some of the lesser known DIY tool brands are getting better in quality, but sometimes it is still hit or miss depending on the specific tool in question.
A few years ago, I bought a Channel lock screwdriver set at Sam’s club that I really like.Sorry about the rambling, have a headace and took some meds.
That looks pretty odd if it was in the oil? It does almost look like rust, but I’m thinking it might be gasket material?
Plastic heater cores and intercoolers.
Although not a bad design, but a pain to replace would be the chain driven waterpump on a Pontiac Grand Am quad4 engine. It’s between the back of the block and firewall, and besides the fact it is chain driven, it also bolts to the block, front cover and thermost housing.
I can’t tell from the photo what the chunks are?
I’d cut open the oil filter and check it too, then spray the oil off the chunks with brake cleaner to see if they are aluminum, plastic, rubber, copper, steel, or lead?I cut the filter open on a new engine and it was pretty good, but had a few small RTV bits and vary small piece of paper shop towel in it.
I plan to do this on my old Jensen, and I’m almost expecting to find bits of valve stem seals and timing chain nylon teeth in the filter.
I’d rebuild the trans in the T&C.
Your noise description is too vague. I doubt it is a rod knock if the noise goes away? Maybe take a video with sound and post it?
I think what you want is a “stated value” policy, where you and the insurer agree on the value of the vehicle (no depreciation.) This is how most of the classic car insurance works. I have Hagerty insurance on a few cars, and it seems to cost close to 1% the agreed coverage value per year, so if you had $30,000 in coverage it might cost about $300/year? but this is classic car insurance with some limitations.
Not directly related to the Job situation, but they were talking about PTSD on the radio the other day about a movie called ACROMYM that you can get for free from the Veterans Business Network.
Interesting topic.
I just do this stuff as a hobby, but have got burn’t “helping” a friend of a friend a few times.
One was on old VW bug that needed a carb rebuild. Ended up needing fuel tank repair, fuel lines, electrical work, throttle linkage work, and someone et the valve lash too tight, and I think they used pliers because all the adjusters were rounded off.
Another was a guy who wanted me to build his engine. I designed an engine combination that would give him the best bang for this money, laid out the budget, everything. He takes it to the machine shop and gets the cheapest rebuild kit (about 7.5:1 compression pistons), a really big mis-matched cam, a crappy timing set and brings it to me to assemble. I talked him off the ledge when I showed him the old used stock valve spring pressures were way to low for the cam, but I think in the end he ended up spending as much money or more for a lower quality and power engine.