Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I always use a driver that fits inside the core plug.
Using the flush mount driver was likely mushrooming the top of the core plug, and that is why you were getting the metal shavings off the top of the core plug.
For sealer, I use the Permatex Indian Head shellac. A bit on inside the core plug hole, and then on the edges of the core plug. Some will ooze out so I clean up the extra with a cloth and acetone solvent.The longer and smaller the hose, the more pressure drop at the tool.
You likely have a single stage compressor that might have max air pressure of 125 PSI?
A dual stage compressor can produce over 175 PSI.I have an old single stage 5HP 60 gallon compressor. The outlet and outlet hose are 1/2″ and goes to a filter/regulator/oiler that are all 1/2″. the outlet of the oiler is a 1/2″ quick disconnect, but I have an adaptor to connect up the 3/8″ hose which is what I normally use.
I have a cheap impact that works OK, but dosen’t loosen really tight stuff, and then I have a nice Snap-On impact that works way better at the same air pressures, so the quality of the tools matters and also make sure to keep them oiled.If your a car person, there is some regret in selling any car you previously owned. Even with the not-so-special cars, there will be times that you recall some special moments related to the car. Example: My 1997 Chrysler Concord LX was the car I had when I met my wife, and we went on a long roadtrip in the car. Sometimes I miss the car, but not in the condition it was in when I sold it with 230,000 miles on it.
It all depends on the condition it is in.
Does the crank turn? Have compression? Engine run? Burn oil?Plugs look a bit rich, but I was expecting them to be oily too?
Any oil entering the combustion chamber has very low octane rating and can cause knock, but that does not seem to be the issue?
High engine temperatures, and high air inlet temps can also cause engine knock, but it sounds like engine temps are normal, and I assume using the stock air filter assembly?
Sounds like ignition timing is OK too?
I don’t know Honda engines, but the compression ratios look OK, except #3 wet at 190 seems high to me? and looks to be 30-40 higher than the rest?
Could there be excessive valve lash or cam wear on that cylinder (closing the intake valve sooner than the other cylinders?)Nice video. I did not know the front cam bearing could not be installed from the back on the FORD.
I have one of the universal cam tools, I think it was around $200.
That cam plate will keep the cam from moving forward, and the timing chain cam gear will keep the cam from moving backwards.
Some engines do not have a cam plate between the cam and timing chain gear, and the combination of the oil pump drive and tapered cam lobes with flat tappet cams keeps the cam from moving forward, but when switching to a roller cam, then a thrust button is needed that goes between the cam/cam gear and the timing chain cover to keep the cam from moving forward.Tough one. I have too many “project” cars also. Not sure if it is the “car guy” in me or I’m just a hoarder, assigning them some sentimental value making them hard to part with, even though I doubt I will get some of them back on the road. I held onto my first car for 30 years even though it had not ran the last 20 years, then I finally sold it to a friend in the car club because he needed parts to finish his car.
If the vehicle is as far-gone as you mentioned, it may be better to sell it, but take pictures, keep the VIN number, and get the buyers information. Keep in touch to try to keep track of the car. Then in the future, when hopefully finances are better you might be able to track the car down, and buy it back maybe in running condition? Or buy something similar that is complete. The truth is it usually is less expensive to buy a completed project, then to build the car up from just a shell.[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=177514]Have you ever wondered why you see so many cars up for sale at meets and shows?
It’s because the owner after investing a considerable amount of time, energy and money in to it has discovered they went the wrong direction, and the project hasn’t turned out to be what they were expectiing, and often has turned into a POS with bad drivability and lots of gremlins.[/quote]
I think your over-generalizing, but I do agree that many people who try modifying cars for the first time will get in over their heads because they don’t have the correct knowledge and experience. I think too many car shows give the impression that everything goes together in an hour with no issues. They almost never show how much time is spent planning out the project, ordering parts, waiting for the parts that may be back-ordered, having to buy or source other parts and fasteners that need to be included, but were not part of the original plan or kit, and then having to modify or fabricate parts that don’t fit or work correctly. Then they cut out many hours of labor.
Another example is a friend of mine, who I met when he was asking questions about his car, he bought a car off E-Bay sight un-seen, that was in much worse condition than he thought, so being enthusiastic he decided to buy a cheap mig welder and attempt body panel replacement / body repair even though he had never done it before. I can’t fault the guy, I did the same too when I was in high school, but he got discouraged and took the car to a professional body shop which found even more issues with the car resulting in a large repair bill, and many months of waiting for the car. Then a long story about life happening while the car just sat for years, and then he sold the un-completed car for a large loss of money. I know the person who bought the car, and I think is is still in storage in the same condition it was 10-years ago when my friend sold it.
Really need to evaluate how bad the rust is. You really can’t weld to rusty metal, so you need to see how far you need to go to get good steel to weld to.
Not sure on this hack, but you might be able to make a sheet metal “cap” with flanges, and then use body panel adhesive to glue it into place?What the others said. On my lightly used summer car only car (like 2000-3000 miles/year), usually just change the oil in the spring. I don’t know if I would trust changing it every 2-3 years because of the condensation issue, and really, it’s not a big expense. A tank of fuel costs more than me changing the oil.
When I look at the Ryobi cordless tools they look almost exactly like the Hitachi tools?
I should take my Hitachi to Lowes and see of the batteries interchange.From the post, I was not sure if it was just trolling. 205 psi is pretty high and says it is higher with the valve loose, than tightened?
I have some older Hitachi 18-Volt Li tools I got for fathers day (at least 5-years old?) and the batteries have been great. All the tools have also been very good except the chuck on the small drill. I originally got a “kit” with Circular saw, reciprocating saw, drill and light. I then bought the impact as a “tool only” which really kept the cost down. I think the “kit” may have came with the 1.5Ah batteries, and I found a deal on Amazon for a pair of 3.0Ah batteries, so I have 4 battery packs now.
I noticed the new version of the tools they changed the battery style, so they won’t work with my older batteries. The impact is sort of wimpy, only 70 ft/lbs I think, but is small and lightweight. I have a larger Craftsman C3 19.2Volt impact (won it in a drawing!) that works great on biger stuff, I think it is rated at 300 ft/lbs. For really tight stuff, I use the air powered Snap-On Impact.Because I’m 6’2″ and 300 pounds, I really dislike heater cores, under dash work, and stuff inside the car, it just kills my back and shoulders trying to contort under the dash.
I don’t mind the smell of gear oil and trans fluid, usually good money in those repairs.
Forgot to add, I’m over 50 years old. When I was younger, I threw my back out lifting a rear differential wrong, then broke my shoulder skiing, stress cracked my legs, and had other ankle/knee injury when in the military. Now I have some arthritis, mostly in my right shoulder and knee.