Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
When cold, after startup, drive it pretty hard to build boost. The boost builds heat, and if it starts running normal, then it is likely the glow plugs.
If you watch, after changing the crank gear position, he uses a thin, small screwdriver to move the cam position to align the cam pin with the new can gear location.
I have the same Comp/Powerhouse tools, they make the job fairly easy. The error of the 0.050″ open/closing points is from the dial indicator tools rounded follower. It is not the same as the lifters roller diameter, that is why it is 1-2 degrees off on those open/closing points.
With that dial indicator too, it also comes with a flat face follower for flat tappet camshafts, but it is slightly smaller in diameter than the actual lifter, so it also will have a slight reading error at the open/closing points. These small differences in the tools follower make no difference when measuring the camshaft install center line, because your just measuring the same distance from peak lift on each side of the lobe. He measured 0.050″ before peak lift, and 0.050″ after peak lift. He could have used many different dial indicator values from peak lift, like 0.100″, or 0.150″ lift, as long as the same value is used on each side of peak lift (and you stay away from the opening and closing ramps where the cam will be more asymmetric.) Just saying that the 0.050″ measurement from peak lift should not be confused with the 0.050″ tappet lift numbers from the base circle.Nice video, good picture and audio quality too.
When installing the crank, it looks like the thrust bearing (end play) was not set as many do, by pushing the crank back, then forward again, holding forward thrust pressure while tightening the main cap that holds the thrust bearing?I’ll be 52 in December and have been working on cars since I was 13. I don’t do it as a profession, just a hobby, but I enjoy the work. Depending on the job and tools at hand, the repairs could be physically easy or hard. I do feel the aches and pains, but usually not any worse that if I went to a gym to workout.
Lately, I have been having medical issues with ear pain and headaches to where I don’t feel much like working on the cars, so I have on these car related web sights trying to remain motivated.Sounds like a nice truck. My wife asked me if I wanted to get a new truck, and I said no way, this one is paid for.
It’s a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie Quad cab, long bed 4×4 with the 5.9L Cummins diesel engine. It has been a good truck so far (only 125,000 miles),
but I just replaced the ball joints on it.The engine is a dual overhead cam in-line 4-cylinder engine that uses a coil pack, plug wires and regular style spark plugs from what I recall.
The original poster will have to specify if it is automatic or standard transmission.I sold my Ford after I had to do several repairs to it at 60,000 miles, including replacing the timing belt, and water pump.
It looks like the inner rack threads were aluminum, and the threads seized to the steel?
Being safety related, I don’t think I would trust just tapping the threads and installing the inner tierod.
Maybe repair with a heli-coil, but I’m not sure how difficult it would be or how much it would cost compared to just replacing the old rack?What is your location? Maybe someone could look at it with you?
Because it backfired, and the compression looks good, and you verified the cam timing, then I would make sure the spark plug wires are routed to the coil pack correctly? I think if the crank trigger was giving you problems, the computer would throw a code?
Also, make sure you have good engine and body grounds, and good battery cables.
With 3,500 miles, the break-in is done for the most part. I would do a oil/filter change to get rid of anything that may have gotten in the oil in those first 3,500 miles. The tow rating depends on the various truck options. The highest ratings are the standard cab, hemi with optional 3.92:1 gear ratio. I think all the versions with the 3.92:1 gear ratio are rated over 10,000 lbs. the models with the 3.21:1 gear ratio look to be rated a bit over 8,000 lbs?
Does it have the tow package with brake controller?
Man these new trucks are crazy expensive!There was a post about CRC GDI cleaner.
I think the service manual recommends a fuel system additive/cleaner every 10,000 miles (at least my KIA 2.0 Turbo does?)
The GDI high pressure fuel pump went out on it at 58,000 miles so it was covered under warranty.I don’t know any specifics on this transmission, but many manufacturers are getting very specific on the transmission fluids used?
Thats 10-degrees BEFORE TDC, and the only importance is so you can rough set the ignition timing so the engine starts easely after moving the distributor.
The disrtibutor rotor is under the cap, and has a brass tang that directs the ignition energy from the center (coil) terminal to each spark plug terminal.
At #1 TDC is will be pointing at a terminal which should be connected to the #1 spark plug wire.
Side note: Because of rotor to cap phasing, with the spark normally occuring 10-40 degrees before TDC, you would want to check the rotor pointing to the terminal somewhere in this area, not after TDC.