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[quote=”college man” post=167491]I would leave the rotors and pads if they are good. You have service everything that matters.
The only piece left is the mc. I would replace the hoses first to see if things change. I know you
said they look good but you won’t see the expansion. What you could try is clamping off the
rear hoses and see if the pedal comes up. this will tell you if the mc is working and the rubber
lines are at fault. If you can find stainless braided lines for the car install them.[/quote]I agree. Rubber brake lines may have been damaged when the upgrades were installed?
Check the rear hub bearings and also the hub runout in case the hub flange is bent. I doubt all 3 sets of drums were bad?
2.5L “Iron Duke” – Really? Designed as a tractor engine and used in 1980’s GM cars. I think the 1980 carbureted version maybe had 80-HP. At least the later EFI version got good fuel economy, but the torque to yield head bolts would break and blow out the head gasket.
My vote would be the Offenhauser.
The Buick 3800 is also good
I’m a Mopar guy, and they had some decent engines (and some junk too.)
I never has a slant 6 but hear they are good.
The V-8’s are strong and can be built to double their advertised power rating fairly easily.
The nice thing with some of these older cars, is the drivetrain (transmission and rear diff) could take the extra power.The Chrysler 3.3L V-6, and 3.5L SOHC engines were pretty good for the 1990’s
[quote=”CordiaMad” post=167463]I’m old school too so i know where Eric is coming from..
carburetor is so simple to use and tune and affordable.
efi you need to be nerd to be able to tune it,them ecu,injectors way too
costly and reality is it will only save you fuel not performance!
that’s my opinion .[/quote]I’m old school too, but most carbs don’t work well out of the box at 6,000+ ft altitude.
I have invested quite a bit of money (maybe around $1,000) in “tuning” parts for both Holley and Carter/Edelbrock carbs.
Really it is less expensive to have the engine professionally chassis dyno tuned.
Engine dyno tuning is also good, but the tune can change quite a bit unless using the same exhaust, air filter, ignition and accessories that will be on the car.
I also did a port EFI swap using an older “Edelbrock XT” kit which does not have all the features of the newer ECUs.
I am swapping the XT ECU out for a FAST 2.0 ECU, so yes my first foray into EFI was expensive, but I hope to learn from my mistakes.Really need to find out what the “shimmer” or particles are.
Often on an engine rebuild or major maintenance, anti-seize, moly lube, and other assembly lube (hopefully no sealer) will mix into the oil and create a shimmer in the oil.Have a link to the other discussion, I must have missed it?
If you plan to change the jets often, get the quick change fuel bowls. They allow changing the jets without removing the fuel bowls. They come with a special screwdriver that holds the jet when installing/removing.
What is the rest of the fuel system? You will need a higher pressure pump and boost referenced fuel regulator.
As for the carb vs EFI, I have both on my cars. My issue is not which one, but the quality of “pump gas”.
#1 – It seems the pump gas here wants to vaporize and boil at fairly moderate temperatures when used in the low fuel pressures of a carb, although the worst part is when using a mechanical fuel pump, the low pressure of the suction side increases the likely hood of vapor lock. Since you are boosting the engine, I’m sure you will be using a higher pressure electric fuel pump, and when under boost, the fuel to the carb and in the bowls will be under higher pressure, but under no-boost conditions the fuel might boil in the bowls if the carb gets too hot.
The EFI keeps the fuel delivery under high pressure to the injector.
#2 – The carb has “hidden costs” when it comes to tuning. Depending on what changes the carb may need, parts like Jets, air bleeds, metering plate restrictions, power valves, accelerator pump cams, and vacuum secondary springs can really add up.
With the EFI you just tweek the software.
#3 – Sort of going along with “hidden costs”, With your carb setup, you need a boost referenced regulator, and ignition retard control box. If you are using electric cooling fans, you would need a separate fan controller.
You can get all this in the EFI, and may reduce the wiring and number of sensors used compared to running multiple boxes/systems.
#4 – Cost. The cost and quality of aftermarket EFI is finally starting to come down. The new player in TBI injections seems to be FiTech.
I haven’t used the FiTech, but they look nice for the cost.
http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystem8-InjectorKitClips were installed correctly, but I found there are two different style of clips listed, and I’m not sure if either aftermarket one works correctly?
I’ll have to get a photo, but the clips that came with pads looks like these (photo from RockAuto):
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3056766&cc=1502890&jsn=344I should have kept the original clips when I did the original brake job.
The recess of the center “V” part does not seem the correct width and the edges if the “V” contact the outer edges of the rotor.
I used a dremel to clearance that area and they seem to work fine. I’m just curious if others have ran into this issue, or if there is a specific brand or part number clip that does not have this issue. I might call the dealer to see if I can get an OE hardware kit?I just installed the PowerStop Z23 kit (rear pads and rotors) and front pads on my wifes 2012 Kia Optima.
It has the drilled/slotted rotors both front and rear, just different manufacturers.
I had to use Stop Tech front rotors because PowerStop does not sell the larger turbo sized rotors.
The pads are really grippy, and work great, but I just put them on so I don’t know how they will do long term?
The rear PowerStop rotors have a zinc plating and did not seem to have any oil or cosmoline on them when I cleaned them.
The Stop Tech rotors have a bare cast finish with e-coated hub and outer edge, so they had a film of cosmoline or oil on them.I just used the Redline SI-1 in my wifes Kia optima and it seems to work good.
The Diesel fuel additive is great too.For cheap OBD2 scanner, Got a cell phone, get the “Torque” app
https://torque-bhp.com/and a OBD2 to bluetooth adaptor.