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Yes it increases the wires resistance. The standard volt/ohm meter does not measure low resistances very well because the can not supply the higher currents needed, and would include the resistance of the meters probes. You really want to know the voltage drop across the wire when high currents are running through it (starter motor cranking, headlighs and accessories on, ect.)
I found a link in another post to a place with good prices, but I saved it on my work computer.
I think it may have been:
http://www.automotiveworkwear.comI was looking at some of the “Red Kap” double knee shop pants. Has anyone tried these?
Heat has the effect of increasing electrical resistance in the wiring.
Bad electrical connections or resistance, especially in the battery cables, can cause ground loop electrical problems that can interfere with the ECU detecting the signals from the various sensors on the car.
Make sure the battery cables are in good condition, with clean connections at the battery, engine and body for the ground. The positive side may be harder to check, It usually goes to a bus bar in the fuse box under the hood, but a “ground loop” issue would be on the ground side anyhow.I’d be interested on your thought about FIF.
I have helped people out before, and it left me with a good feeling, but I knew most of those vehicles would likely be salvage in a year.
They also seem to snowball as you mentioned. They say one thing needs fixed, and you find everything needs fixed.Found this link that might be useful. Also check sway bar bushings.
http://www.lhforums.net/forums/showthread.php?21953-HOW-TO-Replace-Second-Gen-Subframe-Bushings!
I just did power stop brakes on my wifes’ car and they seem to be a good product.
A light smear of silicone grease on the caliper piston can help prevent rust and wear of the brake shim and caliper piston.
I don’t always do this, it’d pretty dry in Colorado and rust is not a major issue.
For me greasing the caliper pins or caliper slides is the most important part to lube.
Also, a small amount of disc brake silicone lube where the pads slide in the abutments.I don’t know a lot about this model, but the earlier LH cars with a lot of years/miles, the engine cradle to body mounts will deteriorate and become loose.
Check glove compartment for service records too.
If the engine is too clean, someone likely have had it apart for a reason.I don’t see how you are putting out all these ETCG and ETCG1 videos while running this forum too. That is a lot of work, I hope you know I don’t take it for granted. I’d have to say the ETCG1 videos and down to earth style is what got me to sign up here.
Check for intake manifold vacuum leaks. I think there were intake gasket issues on the 5.9L?
Found some info in the TSB 09-05-00:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68739Could be the aftermarket parts?
I posted earlier about the aftermarket front disc brake hardware on my wifes’ Kia Optima SX not clearing the rotor correctly.
I’m also doing a four wheel drum to four wheel disc conversion on my 1969 Dodge Coronet and running into issues with parts in the kit not fitting correctly, not to mention the instructions are not very good.I vote for another tool set 🙂
Sounds like you are looking for higher end tools which can get expensive.
It’s hard to beat the value of these Craftsman 250+ piece tool sets with the case
http://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-254-pc-mechanics-tool-set-with-75tooth-ratchet
, just need to add the larger combination wrenches, screwdriver set, and various pliers.
The Channel Lock and Gear Wrench tools are also pretty nice for lower cost tools.What are the engine codes?
I think you can borrow a code reader from the auto parts places if you don’t have one.Sorry, I don’t have a good answer. Good lighting. Maybe using a sharpie or other indicator on the stick that changes color shade when fluid is on it?
I’m new here too, just a car enthusiast who is between jobs so I have too much time on my hands right now.