Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I never did a full re-build of the 2.6L, just head gasket replacement and MCA jets, but I think the oil pump is chain driven and may be related to the counter shaft? I had a Factory Service Manual, but gave it to the guy who bought my Dodge Ram 50.
With the oil problem, is there and galley plugs that might have been left out?
What troubles did you have with installing the timing chain? Could it be installed with the cam out of phase causing the low cylinder pressure?
What issues did you have with the rocker arm assembly? Make sure to leave a minimum 0.010″ gap or more on the jet valve. I set my gap too tight and once the engine got to operating temp, the jet did not close all the way and I burned up the jet valves. Back around 1990 I think they were about $25/each?I must be tired, I though the topic was “hazing of new tires” lol
On a more serious note, I have seen some hazing incidents, and it seems to start with older workers who never got in trouble for pranks, and then the younger workers think it is OK and the cycle continues. This also seems to be more common in smaller un-professional shops, but would likely get you fired at a large professional shop or dealership.
I don’t know about that specific OBDII device, ut is seems marketed to the average consumer which could cause problems?
I have the “Torque” app on my phone. It uses a bluetooth OBDII device to communicate with the smart phone. I think it is $5 for the app and it gives general info and codes, but I like the “Track Recorder” plug-in that allows using the phone camera to video with an overlay of gauges or other vehicle info, sort of a poor mans data acquisition.
I use a garden hose too. Pressure washer really has too much force and will splatter grease and oil everywhere from a badly caked on engine. Also, the high pressure is more likely to get water into the (sealed) electrical connectors. As mentioned, plastic bags and tin foil can be used to keep water out of and away from areas you don’t want soaked in water.
I use the Sams Club “Members Mark” Purple Heavy Duty degreaser
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/mm-hd-degreaser-1-gallon/prod9260460.ip?pid=_CSE_Google_PLA_84715&source=ifpla&CAWELAID=730010300000318256&adid=22222222627000004798&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=79869639635&wl4=pla-44002167248&wl5=9028715&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=1247713&wl11=online&wl12=84715&wl13=&wl15=22972094435&wl17=1o3&veh=semsprayed on with a pump spray bottle. It is much like Castrol Super Clean, but less expensive. This is not recommended for use on aluminum, but I do as long as the aluminum is not polished. It will dull polished aluminum, but for most engine parts, that are as cast, it works great to get all the grease and dirt off. It also works good getting corrosion off battery terminals (just don’t get it in the battery.)
I usually only wash the engine compartment if I have to do major work in there just to make seeing things easier and make it a bit cleaner to work on.
Normally, I try to plan ahead and wash the engine before changing the oil. That way if water gets in, it will be drained with the old oil.Old weak valve springs will have way less pressure, and you can float the valves at a lower RPM, but I think that engine is a dual overhead cam design, and I would still suspect the cam timing is off?
Did a quick search, and you can pick up a used engine really cheap for those cars.
Found this one for $350, and less than 40,000 miles:http://www.weberbrothersauto.com/product.aspx?t=3468249&gclid=CMfr8r6O2NMCFQGqaQodydMNow
Rock Auto carries some body parts at really good prices, but I have never used them, so I don’t know how well they fit? You will need to get the parts painted to match.
Check out local auto paint supply stores. They can mix/match the paint and even put it in reusable spray paint cans if you don’t have a spray gun and compressor.http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2015,3,2.0l+l4,3310313,body,bumper+cover,1344
After 10 years I would think the battery is dead.
Fluid wise, it is going to be bad. Fuel may have evaporated, and left deposits and rust in the fuel tank and lines. I’d be worried about the brake system too.
Usually transmission, and gears will be OK as long as no water got in.
The engine could have several issues. I would almost expect radiator fluid leaks it it has fluid. I had core plugs rust out of a car that sat for several years.
Engine oil condition will depend on how much water/humidity got in the engine, but worse is all the parts where the oil has ran off and may have allowed rust to form inside the engine. You could pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to pre-lube the engine, but there will still be parts that won’t see oil until the engine starts (like piston pins.)I don’t know why some people love Subaru so much? My 2008 Impreza has had more problems than any car I have ever owned.
Sorry, just venting. Post brought up a sore point for me.Get another quote, and look for a shop that specializes in that vehicle make.
I think a complete rebuilt engine is around $3500?
Not sure where you live, but $80/hour shop rate is way less than what is charged in my area.
Also, $200 for parts sounds low.I found this on a search, they say around $1500-1600:
Overall I think having repairs on social media is a good thing.
As mentioned, the problem is there are videos that are good, and informative, but there are also many where the video is partly or totally incorrect.I have found that it is nice to just google a subject and see the repair process compared to having to order an expensive Factory Service Manual (FSM), then wait for it just to do a basic job. Recently I replaced the ball joints on my truck, and found a decent video on it, but I had to do more searching to find the correct torque specifications because the video did not include that.
On other videos, the so-called “expert” referenced parts incorrectly, which will cause mis-understandings if the watcher asks for the “part” at the part store, and receives something they really did not want because it referenced incorrectly in the video.
What condition is the distributor in?
You did not say what the timing is at that 22″ of vacuum, so it may be too far advanced for the “initial” timing?
I would check the advance curve, it may be stuck, or could have a broken spring?
Checking advance curve is done with vacuum advance disconnected. I would also check the PCV valve, and carb float level.