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if you look up top on the toolbar right next to the spell check there is blue square. this can be used to maximize the text box. this will put it in full screen and when your done typing you can click it again to minimize.
i like to let my car idle until the needle reaches about 1/4 inch above the C before i drive. but i try to keep my RPMs low until it reaches normal operating range.
what kind of filter is it stock, basic, performance, etc and how old is it? Have you confirmed that a clogged filter is not the problem? more specifically how old was the filter at the time of these events? since its only happed 3 times over the last 2 years im thinking that maybe the filter is starting to get clogged causing low air flow and as a result it dies you then eventually change the filter based on your maintenance schedule and then don’t have any problems for awhile until the filter starts to get clogged again. just a thought
One last question at the times this happens were you in park idling, coming to stop, or accelerating. If you were accelerating then i would go with filter or air system being clogged. because with sudden acceleration the engine’s demand for air would suddenly increase and if a blockage of some sort was restricting the airflow then the engine wouldn’t be able to meet demand for air and die.
My personal opinion would be their Skill and knowledge. its great to have good tools and access to good information. but what’s the point if you don’t know how to use it.
are looking to just change as in drain and refill or are looking to do more of a flush? as Fader stated above the best place to start is checking the fluid and paying close attention to the color, smell, consistency, etc. if the oil is dark or smells burnt then its likely it hasn’t been changed in a long time. Flushing a transmission with more than 80,000 miles that has never been changed before can cause problems within your system such as slipping. if your fluid is just slightly off in color and smell than you should be able to get away with draining the fluid and replacing the filter and then refilling.
I don’t think you would need to replace the timing belt gasket so long as the gasket is still in good shape when your done. as for the bolts i would use the torque wrench to tighten just so you don’t over tighten. but if you don’t have a torque wrench then i wouldn’t worry about it
Check out this video by Eric if you haven’t already. removing brake drums, The easy way. Hope it helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-WXqIKjHQ&feature=channel_video_title
the only time ive ran into slow load times is when i was previewing a topic prior to posting or when using the search feature. other than that i haven’t really had much of a problem with the site.
IDK about the PS rack welds breaking. because if i recall correctly u mentioned that it was very difficult to steer the vehicle. my steering is loose but i sill have relatively good control of vehicle especially under 50 MPH. the movement is about 2-3 inches at most. it most noticeable as the speed is increased. around 75 mph the car will start to sway left and right. as the speed is increased the worse the sway is. ill try and take a closer look at the welds next time i climb under there.
As far as the control arm bushing how do i go about determining if there bad and the severity of the problem. i haven’t gotten a good look at them but i went looking around during my last oil change and from what i could tell they looked ok but ive never had to diagnose bad bushing. so i just need to know what to look for. do i do just a visual inspection? or should try prying with a pry bar looking for movement? any tips and tricks would be great.
one more thing is that every time i hit a bump or a rough spot in the road my car likes to jump to the left. im pretty this just caused by my left strut being blown and my right strut being worn which as result is causing uneven dampening across the suspension. this has just become apparent in the last couple of days. would u guys agree with that or is there something else going on here?
im going to try and record a video of the problem and sound next time i get it on stands. i might have someone who could steer while i take a look at it.
i did an oil pan on a 98 town and country. i only put one bead of RTV around the pan and then placed the gasket on. as far as the bolts i didn’t put anything on them. i just hand tightened them and then torqued to spec. if i were you i would put just a bead on the pan and a dab of RTV every 2 – 3 inches on the gasket, u could even do it every inch if you wanted to. I filled the pan up with oil right a way and ran it within 20 minutes after install and didn’t have a problem. so u should be fine but doesn’t hurt to be safe. so i would suggest at least waiting an hour. and if you have the time then just give it 3.
make sure to thoroughly check your radiator, hoses, and block. on your radiator look on top and bottom for cracks inspect the drain plug which would be towards the bottom. if you have a radiator cap closely inspect the cap and the area where it screws on. check your hoses for any cracks or holes. on block the usually towards the bottom they have a drain plug. so check there to. also be sure to check your reservoir or overfill tank. A pressure test is also a great way to find the leak as mentioned above. but if you don’t have a pressure tester than you’ll have to rely on visual inspection
i agree with O’Reilly being the cheapest. i haven’t had to much experience with O’Reilly. but just the other day i went around to auto zone O’Reilly’s, and advanced auto parts to price inner tie rods. AZ priced me $28 I dont remember what kind of warranty though, O;rReilly priced me $17 with a LLT warranty and advanced priced me $17 with a 1 year warranty. i know AZ price matches so i might have AZ price match or just buy at O’Reilly