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When you try to put it in gear does the gear selector get stuck like somethings blocking it, or does the selector move without engaging the transmission?
If the gear selector is moving without engaging the transmission then its likely a shift cable or shift linkage. But if the selector wont slide into D, 1,or 2 at all then you probably have something get bind up. If that the case I would try to remove any covers or panels around the gear selector and look to see if anything is physically blocking it or if if anything is flexing or twisting as you attempt to change gears.
When you try to put it in gear does the gear selector get stuck like somethings blocking it, or does the selector move without engaging the transmission?
If the gear selector is moving without engaging the transmission then its likely a shift cable or shift linkage. But if the selector wont slide into D, 1,or 2 at all then you probably have something get bind up. If that the case I would try to remove any covers or panels around the gear selector and look to see if anything is physically blocking it or if if anything is flexing or twisting as you attempt to change gears.
How do u remove the cables from these type of terminals? I looked it up on YouTube but they don’t have any videos on these particular types of terminals. The only method i can see after examining them is to either rip them out or cut them off and hope i have enough slack left.
How do u remove the cables from these type of terminals? I looked it up on YouTube but they don’t have any videos on these particular types of terminals. The only method i can see after examining them is to either rip them out or cut them off and hope i have enough slack left.
i think there winning because everyone can vote twice. you can vote under your username and then sign out and vote again as an unregistered user
everybody here needs to vote. you don’t even need a YouTube Account to vote. so get over there and vote. Eric has dropped to second and is about 650 votes behind so get over there and vote
there was play in the tie rod prior to me replacing it. but when i went to remove my tie rod end i was able to do it by hand. it turns out that the jam nut was not jammed up against the end. when i put the new ones on i made sure to jam the nuts on both sides. the whole strut is brand new including the bushings so we can rule out bushing for the most part. unless Monroe sent me a faulty unit. so it has to be either inner tie rods or PS rack. i pretty sure the rattling was being caused by the loose jam nut. but popping noise has to be inner tie rod, PS rack, clock spring, or wheel bearings. but my moneys on inner tie rods or PS rack
Lets recap Brand new Struts assemblies (ie strut, spring, bushing, upper mounting hardware, etc) brand new outer tie rod ends, new oil pressure sending unit, new pressure hoses on the PS rack, and transmission flush) these are all the repairs done to the car in the last 3 months. in regards to the PS rack the pressure lines were leaking so i had them replaced. my mechanic who is usually really good at spotting problems never mentioned seeing a problem with rack while he was replacing the lines or during the test drive. he did notice the struts and rattling. and said my struts were blown which i already new.
i will have to recheck everything again when i get a chance and if it seems to be the PS rack then ill take it back to mechanic and have him thoroughly check the rack.
Thanks
Update: i put the new struts on and new outer tie rod ends. the steering is very smooth but it still pops. i can turn it left and right very smoothly until it pops and then its smooth after that. i think im going to have to do inner tie rods i didn’t have the cash to do them this time. but at least i can now officially rule out my strut bushings and my tie rod ends as the source of the noise.
Update: my struts have arrived. i have two Monroe ecno-matic strut assemblies. ill be doing the repair sometime this weekend. will i need to replace the lower mounting hardware (bolts, nuts, etc) or will the old ones do just fine? the new struts came with new mounting hardware for top but the bottom needs to purchased separately.
Thanks
If the problem is truly within the heater core i think the only way your going to get it fixed is to replace it. i would go through and eliminate all other possibilities and then just replace the core.
UPDATE: i finally ordered my struts. i ended up buying the Monroe Ecno-Matic strut assembles. there wont be here for about a week but once i get them ill do the repair and post a new update. then go from there.
the Auto Part store i use most often would be Auto zone unless im buying oil or something similar then i use Walmart.
The online sites i use are Autosheperd.com and rockauto.com i usually just compare the prices between the two sites and use the cheapest. which usually is rock auto
The biggest thing i want to know is how long they will last. for example lets say the Monroe’s would last 5 year and Leacree’s only 3 years then ill wait to buy the Monroe’s but if there about the same quality and will last roughly the same time then im just going to buy the Leacree’s. i just don’t want pay $180 for the Leacree’s only to have to replace again 18 months from now. when i could have paid $240 for the Monroe’s and have them last twice as long. but i cant afford to pay an extra $60 just for a brand name because i also need to renew the plates on my car.