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Thank You for all of the replies.
I ended up getting a rag and rinsing it under hot for awhile and then ringed it out. Then I covered the gas cap with the rag and held it there for a minute and keep rearranging it in order to keep the hot part of the rag over the lock. And it worked! After that I took it off and brought it inside to thaw out, before quickly running to the gas station before it could freeze again.
I really like the hand warmer suggestion. I didn’t need it this time, but I might carry some in the glove box from now on, just in case.
Thank You for all of the replies.
I ended up getting a rag and rinsing it under hot for awhile and then ringed it out. Then I covered the gas cap with the rag and held it there for a minute and keep rearranging it in order to keep the hot part of the rag over the lock. And it worked! After that I took it off and brought it inside to thaw out, before quickly running to the gas station before it could freeze again.
I really like the hand warmer suggestion. I didn’t need it this time, but I might carry some in the glove box from now on, just in case.
Well lets start with the basics. Did you check to make sure there wasn’t a burnt relay or fuse in either one of the fuse boxes on the inside or in the engine bay. If all the fuses are good then either there is a short in the wiring system, the motor you bought was bad, or the switches that control the windows have burnt out. To check for a short you will need a wiring diagram and then you’ll need to trace every single wire and check for damages.
Was the motor you installed brand new or used?
Well lets start with the basics. Did you check to make sure there wasn’t a burnt relay or fuse in either one of the fuse boxes on the inside or in the engine bay. If all the fuses are good then either there is a short in the wiring system, the motor you bought was bad, or the switches that control the windows have burnt out. To check for a short you will need a wiring diagram and then you’ll need to trace every single wire and check for damages.
Was the motor you installed brand new or used?
So to sum it up you have five basic options
1. Buy a scan tool.
2. Limp your car to an auto parts store.
3. Have it towed to a mechanic.
4. Find someone who will come out to your house and pull the codes.
5. Start throwing parts at it until its fixed or you’re broke, which ever comes first.
But if you really want to try to diagnose it without doing any of the options listed above i would start with a power balance test so you can determine the exact cylinder or cylinders that are misfiring. Then from there is just a long process of elimination starting with spark and fuel. but as mention before without a code there’s not a whole we can do to help you since none of us can look at the car.
Here’s a video
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE[/video]
I have never worked on an impala so i don’t know the ins and outs of the engine but for my Chevy i usually just disconnect and reconnect the fuel injectors one by one since the fuel rail is very easy to access on my vehicle. but so long as you can either disconnect fuel or ignition to one specific cylinder at a time you should have no problem performing this test. just remember to be safe anytime you’re working with either the fuel or ignition systems.
So to sum it up you have five basic options
1. Buy a scan tool.
2. Limp your car to an auto parts store.
3. Have it towed to a mechanic.
4. Find someone who will come out to your house and pull the codes.
5. Start throwing parts at it until its fixed or you’re broke, which ever comes first.
But if you really want to try to diagnose it without doing any of the options listed above i would start with a power balance test so you can determine the exact cylinder or cylinders that are misfiring. Then from there is just a long process of elimination starting with spark and fuel. but as mention before without a code there’s not a whole we can do to help you since none of us can look at the car.
Here’s a video
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE[/video]
I have never worked on an impala so i don’t know the ins and outs of the engine but for my Chevy i usually just disconnect and reconnect the fuel injectors one by one since the fuel rail is very easy to access on my vehicle. but so long as you can either disconnect fuel or ignition to one specific cylinder at a time you should have no problem performing this test. just remember to be safe anytime you’re working with either the fuel or ignition systems.
First I would start by replacing the radiator cap unless its already been replaced with the new rad. Because if the valve on the cap goes it wont be able to release the extra pressure. Then second i would look into the thermostat. If its not opening then you’ll once again run into a over boil or over pressure situation. Maybe do a boil test on the stove or something.
As mentioned before if you don’t find the root cause and fix the problem your going to run into more problems and more radiators down the road.
First I would start by replacing the radiator cap unless its already been replaced with the new rad. Because if the valve on the cap goes it wont be able to release the extra pressure. Then second i would look into the thermostat. If its not opening then you’ll once again run into a over boil or over pressure situation. Maybe do a boil test on the stove or something.
As mentioned before if you don’t find the root cause and fix the problem your going to run into more problems and more radiators down the road.
I wouldn’t just replace the radiator until you determine the cause of the original problem. A one year old radiator doesn’t usually just start cracking under normal operating conditions unless it was a very very low quality unit or it had a defect of some kind.
It also wouldn’t hurt to take the car to a different shop and get a second opinion as mentioned above.