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Yeah every time I have pulled an engine in a car with an automatic, it has been, brace up the transmission and pull the engine.
On a car with a manual transmission, it’s always been brace up the back of the engine, drop the transmission and pull the engine.
What drove me to ask is that I watched a video of a swap and the engine the guy had, still had the transmission on it.
Didn’t consider he might have disassembled the front clipNovember 12, 2016 at 10:24 pm in reply to: theres gonna be objection, piston and ring replace #871975ok.. after a lot of thought and research we decided to do a complete rebuild with all the associated machine work, had to replace the block, rebuilt the head, new cam all new everything, total cost 2200 but it’s like new now so I call it a win
okay.. for the sake of update, I replaced the fuel pump and filter and screen. no joy..
I poured over a diagram that explained the situation to me in clear technese, but sadly I didn’t understand it.
turned out that one of the coil packs was bad and that causes the problem mentioned.the car starts and dies then the fuel pump keeps pressure for about 3 seconds and power to the fuel pump stops.. i tried a jumper wire to force the fuel pump to run at full output and no change except the fuel pump stayed running
i’m thinking also.. does anyone know whether this car requires premium gas, i know that’s not the current issue.
I took the fuel line off from the rail and cycled the ignition,, I got good fuel pressure for a second then the fuel pump stopped pumping.
I’m going to check for voltage at the fuel pump when the engine is cycled, I expect to get voltage for about 3 seconds then none.
while i’m doing that if anyone has any suggestions..I got time to mess with this again today and got the seat out.. i’m wondering if the sheetmetal cover for the fuel pump access just pries off or is there a method?
any idea where the fuel filter is on this 2000 celica gt i have to wait for the service manual they didnt have it at the parts store
One of the things that really made me remember that story was the “whirring or grinding” noise that seemed to be coming from the trans… because this distributor is at the rear of the engine tucked down under the curve in the firewall it could make it seem like it’s coming from there.
One of the things that really made me remember that story was the “whirring or grinding” noise that seemed to be coming from the trans… because this distributor is at the rear of the engine tucked down under the curve in the firewall it could make it seem like it’s coming from there.
Gremlins… not the AMC type, the annoying “It’s not even supposed to be able to DO that” type.
Gremlins… not the AMC type, the annoying “It’s not even supposed to be able to DO that” type.
Did you test for voltage at the contacts inside the socket?
Did you test for voltage at the contacts inside the socket?
I know this probably ISN’T the problem, but I read the whole thread and it put me in mind of a dodge van that a friend had back in 2006 it had very high mileage and started doing a lot of the stuff you’re describing. We went over it with a few other shade-tree mechanics and many suggestions were thrown around, finally It was decided that maybe a module inside the distributor might be the problem.
So, we get this module and replace it, and Wallah when we start it, it runs perfect… “I told you suckers” says Duane, who suggested that it was this module, so we take it for a test drive and after about a mile it starts to misfire worse than ever. We limp it back to the garage and I take off the distributor cap to see if the module was not tightened down correctly, and when I’m messing with it I notice there is a huge amount of play in the shaft itself. To sum it up the distributor shaft bearings were GONE and the resulting slop in its movement was the cause of all his woes.I know this probably ISN’T the problem, but I read the whole thread and it put me in mind of a dodge van that a friend had back in 2006 it had very high mileage and started doing a lot of the stuff you’re describing. We went over it with a few other shade-tree mechanics and many suggestions were thrown around, finally It was decided that maybe a module inside the distributor might be the problem.
So, we get this module and replace it, and Wallah when we start it, it runs perfect… “I told you suckers” says Duane, who suggested that it was this module, so we take it for a test drive and after about a mile it starts to misfire worse than ever. We limp it back to the garage and I take off the distributor cap to see if the module was not tightened down correctly, and when I’m messing with it I notice there is a huge amount of play in the shaft itself. To sum it up the distributor shaft bearings were GONE and the resulting slop in its movement was the cause of all his woes. -
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