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Hard to tell from the pics. If the weld is through and they pass the bend test, start progressing to thinner and thinner metal. TIG really shins on thin stuff like 18, 20, 22 gauge sheet metal. When you can weld thin stuff without blowing through but still get full penetration, you’ve arrived. Doesn’t look like it’ll take you long to master it. I wish I had access to a tight machine.
Hard to tell from the pics. If the weld is through and they pass the bend test, start progressing to thinner and thinner metal. TIG really shins on thin stuff like 18, 20, 22 gauge sheet metal. When you can weld thin stuff without blowing through but still get full penetration, you’ve arrived. Doesn’t look like it’ll take you long to master it. I wish I had access to a tight machine.
Forget the bike motor — too many problems… only make torque at pretty high RPM’s makes for no fun driving heavier (than a bike) vehicle; no reverse so you have to use some other mechanism to be practical.
Lot’s of modern inline 4-cylinders would fit well. Honda, Nissan, etc. Check out this wild Mini with an Acura motor. http://www.britishv8.org/Other/MarkHeller.htm. Turbo it if the power to weight ratio isn’t enough for you w/o it.
Forget the bike motor — too many problems… only make torque at pretty high RPM’s makes for no fun driving heavier (than a bike) vehicle; no reverse so you have to use some other mechanism to be practical.
Lot’s of modern inline 4-cylinders would fit well. Honda, Nissan, etc. Check out this wild Mini with an Acura motor. http://www.britishv8.org/Other/MarkHeller.htm. Turbo it if the power to weight ratio isn’t enough for you w/o it.
Not bad and definitely shows improvement! If you’ve continued practicing over the past couple of months you’re probably a pro by now. It’s a little hard to tell cuz the pics are a little blurry, but it looks like the weld temp is just about perfect where you’re getting good penetration but not burning through. Test is to butt weld two pieces and then clamp one in your vise. Bend the other back and forth – the metal should break not the weld.
I did a little oxy aceteline welding back in school but have a 2nd hand MIG welder now. It is way easier to get the hang of MIG than gas. One thing I found is an auto-darkening helmet is awesome. Once you use one you’ll never want to weld with goggles or a flip style helmet again. I use a cheap harbor freight one and it’s served me well.
I’d love to learn to TIG weld, but the machines are just way too expensive!
Not bad and definitely shows improvement! If you’ve continued practicing over the past couple of months you’re probably a pro by now. It’s a little hard to tell cuz the pics are a little blurry, but it looks like the weld temp is just about perfect where you’re getting good penetration but not burning through. Test is to butt weld two pieces and then clamp one in your vise. Bend the other back and forth – the metal should break not the weld.
I did a little oxy aceteline welding back in school but have a 2nd hand MIG welder now. It is way easier to get the hang of MIG than gas. One thing I found is an auto-darkening helmet is awesome. Once you use one you’ll never want to weld with goggles or a flip style helmet again. I use a cheap harbor freight one and it’s served me well.
I’d love to learn to TIG weld, but the machines are just way too expensive!
Well, change in plans… I took Friday off to work on the car and let my kids hang out ith their cousins, but the day before I found out my sister in law decided to donate the car as is and get a replacement vehicle. Probably not a bad decision as the difference in tax write off vs what she could sell the car for less the parts to fix wasn’t that much. (Not only that but I don’t think she’s been changing the oil regularly because the slime and varnish on the rocker assembly was about 1/4″ thick so who knows how long it’d have been till the next major repair). But, I’m kind of bummed at the same time because I was really curious to see how bad he damage was (or wasn’t).
So, instead I got the exhaust on my MG reworked (it kept pulling loose on the passenger side) and replaced the belts on my wife’s Highlander. Her belts were only about 4 or 5 years old (75k miles maybe) but they were so dry they were cracking when I squeezed them. Not sure if they were cheap replacements or if that’s just due to the TX temps but I put Gates belts on.
Now I just have to change the brake pads on my son’s car (with him so he’ll learn) and change the oil on my MG and the cars should be good for a while again.
Oh yeah — I still need to do my taxes before the 15th too. I keep trying to forget that!!
Well, change in plans… I took Friday off to work on the car and let my kids hang out ith their cousins, but the day before I found out my sister in law decided to donate the car as is and get a replacement vehicle. Probably not a bad decision as the difference in tax write off vs what she could sell the car for less the parts to fix wasn’t that much. (Not only that but I don’t think she’s been changing the oil regularly because the slime and varnish on the rocker assembly was about 1/4″ thick so who knows how long it’d have been till the next major repair). But, I’m kind of bummed at the same time because I was really curious to see how bad he damage was (or wasn’t).
So, instead I got the exhaust on my MG reworked (it kept pulling loose on the passenger side) and replaced the belts on my wife’s Highlander. Her belts were only about 4 or 5 years old (75k miles maybe) but they were so dry they were cracking when I squeezed them. Not sure if they were cheap replacements or if that’s just due to the TX temps but I put Gates belts on.
Now I just have to change the brake pads on my son’s car (with him so he’ll learn) and change the oil on my MG and the cars should be good for a while again.
Oh yeah — I still need to do my taxes before the 15th too. I keep trying to forget that!!
There must be some other trick. Key in any position, foot on brake, shifter still locked. I think think the brake switch must need power to be recognized.
There must be some other trick. Key in any position, foot on brake, shifter still locked. I think think the brake switch must need power to be recognized.
Quick question… almost all of my limited experience is on little British cars and they’re all stick shifts. I went ahead and started removing some parts on this Honda – including the alternator so battery is disconnected. Is there a trick to shift it into neutral w/o any electrical power or do I need to tape up the alternator hot lead and reconnect the battery to get it out of park and into neutral?
Quick question… almost all of my limited experience is on little British cars and they’re all stick shifts. I went ahead and started removing some parts on this Honda – including the alternator so battery is disconnected. Is there a trick to shift it into neutral w/o any electrical power or do I need to tape up the alternator hot lead and reconnect the battery to get it out of park and into neutral?
Thanks both. Bent valve(s) was my 1st guess, just thought checking some oil from the pan would be easier/quicker and if there is metal in it I’d save some time because if it is the bottom end, I’d probably look for a replacement motor rather than rebuild it.
Looking forward to the info. She got a Chilton’s and it calls for removing just about everything – throttle body, accelerator & cruise cables, fuel rail, all the emissions hoses/tubes… about the only thing I don’t recall it calling for is separating the upper and lower intake halves. I’m hoping I can get away with leaving most of that connected and still get the head off.
Thanks both. Bent valve(s) was my 1st guess, just thought checking some oil from the pan would be easier/quicker and if there is metal in it I’d save some time because if it is the bottom end, I’d probably look for a replacement motor rather than rebuild it.
Looking forward to the info. She got a Chilton’s and it calls for removing just about everything – throttle body, accelerator & cruise cables, fuel rail, all the emissions hoses/tubes… about the only thing I don’t recall it calling for is separating the upper and lower intake halves. I’m hoping I can get away with leaving most of that connected and still get the head off.
Love TR6’s – but don’t just restore it, improve it. Check out some of these for inspiration… http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-Triumph-Conversions.htm. Especially this one… http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/CalvinGrannis.htm