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Did you erase the DTC from the cars PCM after replacing the faulty part?
Did you erase the DTC from the cars PCM after replacing the faulty part?
If your going through the trouble of swapping it out, why not do a 3.8L and make it worth while.
If your going through the trouble of swapping it out, why not do a 3.8L and make it worth while.
For the price, it cant be beat. A quality tool with a very reasonable price. I wouldn’t call 125 for an impact gun steep though. Thats on the low end of the scale.
I personally have a Snap On Heavy Duty 1/2″ gun, the MG725 specifically. 1190 ft/lbs break away, 810 ft/lbs working. It gets the job done to say the least. Costs 3 times as much though, and is a little of the heavy side, weighing in at nearly 5 lbs.
For the price, it cant be beat. A quality tool with a very reasonable price. I wouldn’t call 125 for an impact gun steep though. Thats on the low end of the scale.
I personally have a Snap On Heavy Duty 1/2″ gun, the MG725 specifically. 1190 ft/lbs break away, 810 ft/lbs working. It gets the job done to say the least. Costs 3 times as much though, and is a little of the heavy side, weighing in at nearly 5 lbs.
any 2 post toggle switch from radio shack will do.
any 2 post toggle switch from radio shack will do.
A fairly strait forward job, requires only basic tools, can be a pain because there’s not much room to work. Just remember to make sure your front wheels and steering wheel are straight before installing the new shaft.
A fairly strait forward job, requires only basic tools, can be a pain because there’s not much room to work. Just remember to make sure your front wheels and steering wheel are straight before installing the new shaft.
Too many variables involved. You will have to take your car to a body or colision shop and have them do up an estimate for you. Remember, this is an estimate, and could end up costing more, Depends on how bad the rust is once its opened up.
It will be rather costly, but not a good DIY project. A job like this requires years of experience to get a good looking quality job done.
This is just a rough guess, but I would expect in the neighborhood of $300-$500 for a straight up cut, weld, and a rough grinding. Add an extra $800-$1000 for some quick body work and single stage paint. Unfortunately for the person paying, this is a labor intensive job, requiring specialized skills, so the price goes up.
Too many variables involved. You will have to take your car to a body or colision shop and have them do up an estimate for you. Remember, this is an estimate, and could end up costing more, Depends on how bad the rust is once its opened up.
It will be rather costly, but not a good DIY project. A job like this requires years of experience to get a good looking quality job done.
This is just a rough guess, but I would expect in the neighborhood of $300-$500 for a straight up cut, weld, and a rough grinding. Add an extra $800-$1000 for some quick body work and single stage paint. Unfortunately for the person paying, this is a labor intensive job, requiring specialized skills, so the price goes up.
You have worn parts. 2 inches of play is alot. Get it checked out, it may be unsafe and worse than you think.
Late model Dodges, Dakotas specifically seem to have an issue with the steering column u-joint wearing out. Ive replaced a few in the last year or so.
You have worn parts. 2 inches of play is alot. Get it checked out, it may be unsafe and worse than you think.
Late model Dodges, Dakotas specifically seem to have an issue with the steering column u-joint wearing out. Ive replaced a few in the last year or so.
Be more descriptive. Both what hooked to what power source.
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