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Oil changes are cheaper than engines. Every 4000 kms [2500 miles] for me. Dont matter if it still looks clean or not. $30 for oil and a filter every 4k kms is cheap insurance.
Oil changes are cheaper than engines. Every 4000 kms [2500 miles] for me. Dont matter if it still looks clean or not. $30 for oil and a filter every 4k kms is cheap insurance.
Oil is cheap. I change it every 2-3000 miles. Keeps everything nice and clean inside. If the engine in your truck has 8k miles already, just keep up with regular oil changes.
Oil is cheap. I change it every 2-3000 miles. Keeps everything nice and clean inside. If the engine in your truck has 8k miles already, just keep up with regular oil changes.
These care were built with fuel economy in mind, not performance. Picking up 40HP is a pretty high goal, and wont be accomplished with a few bolt-ons like an intake and exhaust. Also, because they were built for fuel economy, the transmissions are geared rather high and thus reduce torque and hp at the wheels.
High compression pistons, performance cams, some head work and professional tuning would be required to even start getting near your goal. The above mentioned would be maybe a 25HP gain, and thats being optimistic.
The most cost effective way of obtain a 40hp gain would be a turbo and a good reliable tune.
I dont think there will much available for a good quality turbo kit for this car, so piecing together a custom kit is likely the only option. So figure $1000-$1500 for a good turbo, piping, Inter cooler, waste gate, BOV, MAP sensor, Exhaust, other misc parts, plus fabrication to make it all fit, and then you will need your ECU tuned to make it run right, and be reliable. And thats if its possible to chip and tune the ECU in your echo. A stand alone system may be needed to make it all work. They are not cheap, or easy to install. Also have to question the strength of these these engines. Im not confident it would last long under boost in stock form, for example, breaking a connecting rod, or melting a piston.
These care were built with fuel economy in mind, not performance. Picking up 40HP is a pretty high goal, and wont be accomplished with a few bolt-ons like an intake and exhaust. Also, because they were built for fuel economy, the transmissions are geared rather high and thus reduce torque and hp at the wheels.
High compression pistons, performance cams, some head work and professional tuning would be required to even start getting near your goal. The above mentioned would be maybe a 25HP gain, and thats being optimistic.
The most cost effective way of obtain a 40hp gain would be a turbo and a good reliable tune.
I dont think there will much available for a good quality turbo kit for this car, so piecing together a custom kit is likely the only option. So figure $1000-$1500 for a good turbo, piping, Inter cooler, waste gate, BOV, MAP sensor, Exhaust, other misc parts, plus fabrication to make it all fit, and then you will need your ECU tuned to make it run right, and be reliable. And thats if its possible to chip and tune the ECU in your echo. A stand alone system may be needed to make it all work. They are not cheap, or easy to install. Also have to question the strength of these these engines. Im not confident it would last long under boost in stock form, for example, breaking a connecting rod, or melting a piston.
Your vehicle only has 2 O2 sensors. Bank 1 Sensor 1 [up stream] is in the exhaust manifold, while Bank 1 Sensor 2 [downstream] will be either in the Catalytic converter, or immediately after it.
Most likely the Bank 1 Sensor 1 oxygen sensor is faulty, but be sure to inspect for open shorts in the wiring before replacing. Could be as simple as a corroded connection causing this code.
Your vehicle only has 2 O2 sensors. Bank 1 Sensor 1 [up stream] is in the exhaust manifold, while Bank 1 Sensor 2 [downstream] will be either in the Catalytic converter, or immediately after it.
Most likely the Bank 1 Sensor 1 oxygen sensor is faulty, but be sure to inspect for open shorts in the wiring before replacing. Could be as simple as a corroded connection causing this code.
[B]Update[/B] [March 27, 2013]
Took the head to work today to clean and lap the valves. All went fairly smooth. #4 Exhaust valves are toast though. Ill have to pull apart my spare head and steal a pair from it. Gave the seats a cleaning with a mini brass wheel and a quickie in the parts washer. Hopefully tomorrow I can start cleaning up the Intake runners.
Valves all cleaned up.
[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm300/Defcon1_Admin/Valves.jpg[/IMG]
Just tidying up. Removing all the carbon buildup from the valve seats before lapping.
[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm300/Defcon1_Admin/CleaningValveseats.jpg[/IMG]
All 16 lapped and a quick cleanup in the parts washer. Some very minor pitting in a few of the seats. Nothing to loose sleep over. This isnt going to be a 600hp race engine so im happy with how it turned out.
[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm300/Defcon1_Admin/LappedCleaned.jpg[/IMG]
#4 exhaust valves. Theres no helping these. Time to start tearing down my spare head for a pair of valves and re-lap #4 exhaust.
[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm300/Defcon1_Admin/4exhaust.jpg[/IMG]