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Thank you all! This Missouri State Inspection is a pain if you have a leaking rack and pinion. I guess I could spray it down prior to inspection and they may not notice?
Otherwise maybe the 92-96 civic manual rack’s will fit the 92-96 prelude?
I think I mis understood what the op meant by surging, like surging at idle? Commonly caused by air in the coolant system. Meaning the Idle Air Control Valve operates by the smooth passing of air free coolant to idle high when cold, low when warm. An up-down like idle is detecting the lack of coolant or air in the passing of the coolant which causes the sensor to read an alternating cold/ hot idle scenario.
To fix that, just lift up the front of the car with a high-lift (24″ or greater) jack at the designated loop point near the radiator. There’s a metal loop, hookable like loop. Lift there. Pull radiator cap, fill reservoir to submerge the overflow hose. Run engine with heat on high, while front of car is high enough that the tip of the radiator cap is surely higher than the heater core. This will force air up as it wants to do and burp until no air buddies and buy a new radiator cap while your at it. What you do is add coolant until you see no more bubbles and once it over-flows, place cap on. Otherwise there is a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing near the egr/ vtec solenoid. I run a clear vinyl hose from the bleeder nipple to a clear plastic bottle with a hole in the cap just big enough to have an air tight seal, submerged in 1-3″ of 50/50 coolant. Crack bleeder until no more air bubbles, though lifting the front end up with the cap off is easier. That fixed my ’94 & ’95 accord’s up-down idle after I replaced the thermostat.
I have owned a 95′ and now own a 94′ Accord EX and I like them because I’ve researched them to holy heck and worked out all the kinks.
5-speed Accord EX F22B1’s don’t surge. Surge like give it power .. and nothing .. not going like it should. Like roar of open throttle body/ yet not equal to it’s propulsion. Could be ignition control module, but I have worked on many F22B1 Accord’s all 5-speed and not once had a surging issue. Though the Auto’s surged all day long, just not going anywhere and fuel mileage suffers greatly.
You’ve done everything that would fix the issue on a manual, though your driving an automatic. I 110% suspect automatic transmission is on it’s way out. Used replacement auto’s are not expensive, search craigslist and find a garage that can install it. The transmission alone is $100 for the auto on craigslist, get one from a low mileage engine.
Once you have the new transmission installed, do not use Honda ATF. Use Amsoil 110% full synthetic transmission fluid to prevent this from every occurring again. AMSOIL also guarantees around 100,000 miles per change on their transmission oils.
Okay so your running a 1995 Civic EX which has the D16Z6 1.6L SOHC VTEC engine.
So crank no start you say? Replace the cap, rotor, and all spark plugs ngk g-power will do at proper gap (Specified by a sticker under the hood).
After replacing all plugs and gapping, leave one out and plug into the wire and rest on exhaust manifold or metal. Have friend crank to notice if spark occurs or not and if it’s a clear ark. After complete install back into the cylinder head and attach all wires to all gapped plugs.
Once you’ve determined that much, while friend is in car leave ignition off, use 17mm socket to crack primary fuel rail nut just slightly. Have friend move key from off to on, not engine start. In a properly operating fuel pump it will spray out, quickly tell friend to turn off and tighten 17mm after test.
Spraying yes/ no? replace fuel pump with the O’Reilly Auto Parts lifetime warranty import direct pump since it’s smaller and higher tech than oem. It can also handle low tank beating a lot better. Though try not to run it dry, no less than 1/4 to be sure the pump will not fail.
Replaced with import direct pump/ spraying properly out of 17mm bolt? YES/NO? If not remove main fuel pump relay under steering wheel it’s a small brown box clipped up under there. If you have soldering skills, remove brown cover and pull the computer pcb. Re-heat and re-solder all connections as a free resolution to failing solder joints. At that point you should have proper spraying from 17mm bolt on fuel rail.
At that point you should be golden, otherwise it could be the distributor is too far advanced or retarded to set to center by loosening 3 bolts. Center meaning equal distance gap to the left and right of top center distributor bolt. Usually perfect is a tad say 1-2mm gap to the left of the top distributor bolt and no gap at the right. For a tad bit more high rpm power, 3-4mm gap to the left of the primary top distributor bolt and 0 gap to the right of the bolt.
Still no start? Try feeding the throttle body a squirt or two of carb cleaner/ starting fluid/ or plain old 91% isopropyl alcohol. At that point it should start right back up. You may clean the crankcase before your next 5w30 oil change, 10 minutes of idling on 32oz of 91% isopropyl alcohol in the crank to free debris and thoroughly cleanse the whole engine. Then change with fresh 5w30, and as far as oil consumption the d16z6 and y8 commonly sucked oil down from the valve stem seals (Usually $250 repair including valve adjustment).
Next dump a full 32oz of isopropyl alcohol in the gas tank on a completely full tank and let it run through to 1/4 tank. At that point if your still having trouble, an additional 32oz of isopropyl alcohol on a full tank may be necessary to thin/ break-up/ and break-free pressure robbing debris in the fuel system including the injectors.