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I figured it out. The ac works amazing now! I put the orifice tube before the condenser (basically just switched the lines on the condenser) and that was causing the whole problem.
After I changed the order so the orifice tube was after the condenser and before the evaporator it worked great!
The car wasn’t done with me though, the hood didn’t want to close. After much frustrated searching in 90 degree humid new york weather I realized the hood latch was moved closed preventing it from closing. duh..
So psyched right now!!!! banana:
I figured it out. The ac works amazing now! I put the orifice tube before the condenser (basically just switched the lines on the condenser) and that was causing the whole problem.
After I changed the order so the orifice tube was after the condenser and before the evaporator it worked great!
The car wasn’t done with me though, the hood didn’t want to close. After much frustrated searching in 90 degree humid new york weather I realized the hood latch was moved closed preventing it from closing. duh..
So psyched right now!!!! banana:
I’m glad you brought that up, when I went to drain it, nothing came out. When they said “small amount of lubricant” they meant “small amount of lubricant”. It wasn’t until I added some pag150 to it that I was able to turn the compressor reasonably easy with a spanner wrench.
I’m glad you brought that up, when I went to drain it, nothing came out. When they said “small amount of lubricant” they meant “small amount of lubricant”. It wasn’t until I added some pag150 to it that I was able to turn the compressor reasonably easy with a spanner wrench.
Ok this is getting frustrating.
I changed the compressor, the condenser, the orifice tube the accumulator, the compressor to condenser lines, flushed the system and then put 4oz of pag oil in the accumulator and 4oz of pag oil in the compressor but now when I turn the car on the compressor is short cycling.
I evacuated the system and it holds a vacuum.I tried charging it from a 30lb canister to the harbor freight manifold gauges but it only takes a small amount of refrigerant and just sits there with the valve open.
I’m charging on the low side.
low pressures are reaching between 60-80psi and high pressures go up to almost 500. I know this is much too high.
What might be causing this to happen?
Ok this is getting frustrating.
I changed the compressor, the condenser, the orifice tube the accumulator, the compressor to condenser lines, flushed the system and then put 4oz of pag oil in the accumulator and 4oz of pag oil in the compressor but now when I turn the car on the compressor is short cycling.
I evacuated the system and it holds a vacuum.I tried charging it from a 30lb canister to the harbor freight manifold gauges but it only takes a small amount of refrigerant and just sits there with the valve open.
I’m charging on the low side.
low pressures are reaching between 60-80psi and high pressures go up to almost 500. I know this is much too high.
What might be causing this to happen?
Just wanted to revive this topic one more time, I had two minor questions:
On the manifold gauge it shows the temperature of the refrigerant (it’s relative to the pressure in the system too). When is the temperature of the refrigerant important? I’ve read it’s used for “fine tuning’ but I dont know what that means or how to fine tune that. Is there a chart for this?
Question 2: If the air gap on the compressor is too small what will the consequences be if we run it without adjusting it?
Just wanted to revive this topic one more time, I had two minor questions:
On the manifold gauge it shows the temperature of the refrigerant (it’s relative to the pressure in the system too). When is the temperature of the refrigerant important? I’ve read it’s used for “fine tuning’ but I dont know what that means or how to fine tune that. Is there a chart for this?
Question 2: If the air gap on the compressor is too small what will the consequences be if we run it without adjusting it?
Hey Eric, JTF gave the best advice. Also I got a second interesting answer to my o-ring question that I had on facebook along with some charging proceures.
I got in touch with the manufacturer of my compressor and I learned a lot of stuff based on their site. (4s.com) It’s really become quite the project but once this is done I’m going to be sharing all of my findings. I’ll make a video and post it on youtube in the near future and place a link in here as well. I’m actually pretty psyched about this project.
It should be completed next weekend.
Hey Eric, JTF gave the best advice. Also I got a second interesting answer to my o-ring question that I had on facebook along with some charging proceures.
I got in touch with the manufacturer of my compressor and I learned a lot of stuff based on their site. (4s.com) It’s really become quite the project but once this is done I’m going to be sharing all of my findings. I’ll make a video and post it on youtube in the near future and place a link in here as well. I’m actually pretty psyched about this project.
It should be completed next weekend.
I’ve decided to take whatever oil is in it out of it and keeping it on the side. Should there be a disaster I’ll just put it back in. Not like they’ll be able to tell anyway..
I think I’m over-complicating this, so I’ll just keep it simple. Few questions:
When I add oil to the new compressor it says to hold it upside down (pulley down I guess?) and rotate it. What exactly is the point of this?
Do I need to Push the clutch into the body of the pulley when I rotate it by hand so that everything gets coated?
One other question regarding reading the gauges. I get the point of the PSI/HG scale but what is the point of the scale for the R134a?
I’ve decided to take whatever oil is in it out of it and keeping it on the side. Should there be a disaster I’ll just put it back in. Not like they’ll be able to tell anyway..
I think I’m over-complicating this, so I’ll just keep it simple. Few questions:
When I add oil to the new compressor it says to hold it upside down (pulley down I guess?) and rotate it. What exactly is the point of this?
Do I need to Push the clutch into the body of the pulley when I rotate it by hand so that everything gets coated?
One other question regarding reading the gauges. I get the point of the PSI/HG scale but what is the point of the scale for the R134a?
Interesting. The manual said something along the lines that all service compressors come with 8 oz and should be “drained and retained”. My guess is that it comes with oil to prevent the compressor from seizing up while not in use and on the shelf before purchase.
By the way which ports should I add the oil from? I read suction side on both the accumulator and compressor but how do I determine those? Is the suction side of the accumulator the one leading to the compressor?
Is the suction side of the compressor the one leading to the accumulator?
Won’t adding oil to the suction side of the compressor damage it or will it just drop into the sump pit on the compressor?