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ALL timing is good. Timing belt is in perfect condition. so are the sprockets. Checked distributor timing. Everything is where it should be.
Any other ideas?
ALL timing is good. Timing belt is in perfect condition. so are the sprockets. Checked distributor timing. Everything is where it should be.
Any other ideas?
The wheels are disconnected from the engine in “neutral,” so no, the transmission is not holding the car. In park, the transmission *is* holding the car.
In drive, the car tries to move forward, against the e-brake.
As far as I know, it’s normal for the car to roll a bit with it in drive. I know for a fact, that properly adjusted e-brake will not hold a manual car in place when it’s in first.
However, your e-brake *should* hold the car on a steep heel, in neutral, with the ebrake up.
The wheels are disconnected from the engine in “neutral,” so no, the transmission is not holding the car. In park, the transmission *is* holding the car.
In drive, the car tries to move forward, against the e-brake.
As far as I know, it’s normal for the car to roll a bit with it in drive. I know for a fact, that properly adjusted e-brake will not hold a manual car in place when it’s in first.
However, your e-brake *should* hold the car on a steep heel, in neutral, with the ebrake up.
grinding is only when the wheel is reaching the end of its turning radius it is automatic in D4
That does sound like either one of the problems I mentioned. It is most likely completely separate from your other issue.
grinding is only when the wheel is reaching the end of its turning radius it is automatic in D4
That does sound like either one of the problems I mentioned. It is most likely completely separate from your other issue.
also turning the wheel all the way in either direction results in a grinding if held and a thumping if turned is this normal?
No, it’s not. See if giving the car gas (in neutral) makes the steering wheel easier to turn. That’s an easy way to check if your pump is starting to go. The “grinding” is there if you turn the wheel, even when stationary, or only when turning? In either case, it sounds to me like you need to check your CV-joints and tie-rods. I know that’s a long shot, but it’s an easy check.
As far as the acceleration, manual or automatic? It could indeed be stuck in 1st of auto…
Not even going to speculate further until you give more details on that.
also turning the wheel all the way in either direction results in a grinding if held and a thumping if turned is this normal?
No, it’s not. See if giving the car gas (in neutral) makes the steering wheel easier to turn. That’s an easy way to check if your pump is starting to go. The “grinding” is there if you turn the wheel, even when stationary, or only when turning? In either case, it sounds to me like you need to check your CV-joints and tie-rods. I know that’s a long shot, but it’s an easy check.
As far as the acceleration, manual or automatic? It could indeed be stuck in 1st of auto…
Not even going to speculate further until you give more details on that.
I have been getting screwed at shops for the past 8 years or so. Every time. That’s why I started working on my car. Mechanics straight up disconnect random sensors or break things. For example: Take a car in for a clutch change – “lol lol we couldn’t get an exhaust bracket off so we had to order a new one, lol lol $150 for both of them and extra $60 for labor lol.” I just changed that bracket 3 months ago, but whatever, come to get car “lol lol there is some strange pause in acceleration, we think we need to change your throttle body, car came in with CEL lol, that will be $400” – it didn’t, I ran codes before giving it to them. Whatever, ask them to just give car back. Go through throttle stuff – find that they disconnected my throttle position sensor. And what can you do about it, nothing really, short of idiotic things like slashing their tires or something.
I have literally tens of stories like this, both at dealerships (the worst actually) and random shops. I am not rude at all, I don’t ask them anything annoying, etc. Just seems to be the norm, happens to all my friends to. Don’t get me wrong – I respect what mechanics do (I think much more so than a person who doesn’t know all the things they have to understand) and not saying all of them are like this, obviously, but damn.
I think part of it is them not liking working on older cars, even if they are clean / bolts aren’t seized. Also, with older cars, it’s easier to justify that “x randomly broke.”
That’s my $0.05.
I have been getting screwed at shops for the past 8 years or so. Every time. That’s why I started working on my car. Mechanics straight up disconnect random sensors or break things. For example: Take a car in for a clutch change – “lol lol we couldn’t get an exhaust bracket off so we had to order a new one, lol lol $150 for both of them and extra $60 for labor lol.” I just changed that bracket 3 months ago, but whatever, come to get car “lol lol there is some strange pause in acceleration, we think we need to change your throttle body, car came in with CEL lol, that will be $400” – it didn’t, I ran codes before giving it to them. Whatever, ask them to just give car back. Go through throttle stuff – find that they disconnected my throttle position sensor. And what can you do about it, nothing really, short of idiotic things like slashing their tires or something.
I have literally tens of stories like this, both at dealerships (the worst actually) and random shops. I am not rude at all, I don’t ask them anything annoying, etc. Just seems to be the norm, happens to all my friends to. Don’t get me wrong – I respect what mechanics do (I think much more so than a person who doesn’t know all the things they have to understand) and not saying all of them are like this, obviously, but damn.
I think part of it is them not liking working on older cars, even if they are clean / bolts aren’t seized. Also, with older cars, it’s easier to justify that “x randomly broke.”
That’s my $0.05.