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not necessarily it sounds as if the timing is 1: too retarded or 2: the advanced curve isn’t working
Edit: check the vacuum lines to the vacuum operated advanced curve
The undercoatings are good IF you sanded down all the rust before you do it, otherwise you trap the moisture in and it eat away at your car just as fast if not faster than if you didn’t put the undercoating on, there is only a couple of ways to save your car now and one is expensive and the other is risky, the riskier option is to do what peshewa said and hope the there is enough metal there to repaint it and seal it up after you have sanded off all the rust to bare steel the better option is to either replace the rusted area or graph in a new piece metal after you have cut out the old rusted piece
I didn’t exactly grow up with these motors either but I’ve drivin the olds and the buick. I actually prefer the buick 455, that 455 made that 1972 buick riveria fly! the olds was a a close socond though but I have a feeling it was carb issues making it hold back as much as it did. both were a blast to drive though
sounds like your ignition timing is off, adjust your distributor cap until it runs at it best then take it to a shop to have it properly timed or (if you have a timing light) do it yourself
[quote=”TCC” post=132869] any personal experiences with certain engines anyone would like to share?[/quote]
one of the reasons I was mentioning the Ford 300 I6 and the Chevy 350 was because of personal experience I already said my story about 350, but the Ford I have some good experiences with too, I remember my fathers truck (which had the same exact drive train as my current truck) He was driving it one day and then a it started clacking. it sounded similar the an old school diesel, very loud and mechanical sounding. the truck made it home and then my father called my grandfather (this was a long time ago before cell phones were very prominent at least in my family and also my dad knows nothing about fixing cars), my grandfather said it sounded like a lifter was sticking and to simply add in a quart of slick 50 (this was the old formula with like 50% Teflon in it, not the new crappy formula), he added it in and tafter about maybe 5 minutes of running the clacking was completely gone and he got another 200,000 miles out of this truck before he sold it, and at that point it was still running great.
Ford 300 I6: 1965-1996
here is my best guess, Rust from not using the car all winter on your input shaft has your clutch stuck just barely in the into the engaged position not enough to make the car move per-say but enough to make it not shift, this would cause the clutch not going all the way down, the reverse situation has kinda stumped me but I believe there are 2 cables (or linkages depending on the car) that go from your shifter to the actual transmission if one is rusted in place it would cause the stuck shifter.
I remember a 1965 Mustang that came through one time, it had a dead rat in it that had been there for so long that all you could find was a bit of fur and a skeleton. the cool part is that the skeleton was untouched from the day it died and even the tail bones were still in alignment.
the lean mixture would cause the misfire and sorry I assumed you had the twin tanks, most of your model trucks have the twins, anyways, the hum is a good thing because that mean the the fuel pump is working, the easiest thing to do for you is a simple fuel filter replacement, you don’t know how often this other guy who owned the truck before you did it if ever. A fuel filter for that truck is $25 but a real pain to do because of the “quick release” clips that require some special tool to get it out.
how was the performance upon acceleration? does this happen with both fuel tanks or on one of them? If it’s only one tank I would say fuel pump is bad, if it’s with both tanks, I’d say fuel filter is clogged up
I cant say unless i were to see it but I remember my truck when the U-joint started going out, it would clunk between 1st and and 2nd, but it did fine everywhere else except for a small squeak at all speeds.
Yes it would help but if there is rust inside the sheathing it will still bind, a new throttle cable might be the best fix, they aren’t to expensive to replace on most cars
Check your U-joints, they might be going out and the excess play might be making a clunk, luckily they are very cheap and easy to fix