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however wouldn’t that mean as soon as the oil is hot, it will clatter and not have oil pressure even if I shut it down and restart it 5 seconds later?
I agree with wysetech on his thought on the wire may not making good contact with the tower. my guess is that maybe it didn’t snap all the down when you installed it, dielectric grease would help but only put the grease on the plastic part of the tower. it might let it slip all the way down instead of the rubber grabbing on the plastic and preventing it from sticking
what ever it is, it is on the right front side of the car more than likely related to the suspension system. what you do to check the axles is to rotate them by hand and look at the CV joint, if it has any play at all in that joint back and forth or rotationally I would take a video first for us to make sure it needs to be replaced then afterwards we should be able to decide what’s going on, by the way (this is a long shot) do you have a Go Pro camera or something similar? we could use it for testing and diagnosing.
I wonder is this has a vacuum operated brake booster that also affects the clutch? this sounds like a vacuum leak, is it doesn’t have enough vacuum in the city because the engine is mostly idling and not creating enough vacuum to properly work the booster the brakes will get hard but still function. on the highway your car is creating a lot more vacuum from driving so fast and even with the leak, it will still operate the brake booster effectively making it easier to press the pedal.
when the car is just shut off it drop to 13 but in the morning it will be about 12. I’m not sure of the brand of battery but I know it is almost brand new maybe like a month old, we did the test with the head lights, and all the police lights on as well. On this vehicle there is no volt gauge but there is an amp gauge, with everything running it reads about -10 amps and with everything off it’s around 1 amp in the positive. I’ll help him check the connections and everything later this afternoon.
just a note this is a heavy duty, standard police alternator with 2 V-belts running to it. Not the regular alternator that is usually found on the chrysler big blocks
I did have a scan tool hooked up and it was giving me a misfire code for cylinder 3 you can feel the engine physically vibrating from the misfire/dead cylinder, this is the windsor 4.6L V8 and what voltage should I be looking for? also I was getting the codes for lean on banks 1 and 2.
my thoughts are that your oil pump gave out, your lifters started clattering from the lack of oil pressure and eventually the engine seized from lack of lube.
did you properly adjust the carburetor after installation, It sounds like your low speed set screw is set a bit rich, but your high speed screw sounds fine. I would adjust the low until it idles fine and also revs fine. do this while the car is warm, don’t do it cold, it will make your adjustments rich.
they might have a flaw from manufacturing causing premature wear. When ever I “fix” a car there is probably a 10% chance of that part being faulty or installed wrong I’d say. my best guess is exactly what tomatofarmer1 said. the cause might be, not enough break in lubrication so during the break in period the valve stems and seals would be prematurely worn out.
maybe your starter is loose and is clunking as it’s cranking, why it isn’t starting is beyond me, you’ve pretty much listed everything a car needs to run, can you make a quick video of it trying to start?
my guess is that there is transmission fluid leaking and as the car warms up and it is contacting something hot like the exhaust pipe, you need to be extremely careful. transmission fluid although not at flammable as gasoline is still extremely flammable and has a potential to cause a car fire. you should find the source of the smoke as fast as possible for your own safety.
Good luck!