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yep… a lot of it has to do with brand loyalty too, my grandfather will only buy GM cars because he worked for oldsmobile, but for the longest time however he would buy Ford trucks, he liked the 300 straight six engine, and also liked the tighter turning radios of the Ford F-150, so he bought that over the Chevy Silverado almost every single time, that is until the discontinued the 300 straight six, he continued to drive his old red F-150 until it had hundreds of thousands of miles on it, then bought a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD and still has that truck today.
I however have no loyalty to any brand, I have a loyalty to the older vehicles because they where simpler and easier to work on, parts are cheep, why spend $30,000 to $50,000 on a brand new car, when you can get a beater and pay $3,000 and maybe with another $2,000 in some fixing have it running reliably? there are still some decent looking used cars that run great! my 2008 Grand Prix was purchased for about $8,000 with 86,000 miles and i could now pay off the loan completely if i wanted too, and the only reason i purchased the car was because it had the 3800 V6! that was what i wanted most, a W body GM car with that engine, because that is what i have owned all my life, and have had good luck with them. Also the dealership was a dealership that had given my parents reputable business time and time again, so i figured they would get my business too…
when modifying your car that adds a whole new element to the diagnosis, but adding intake parts typically frees up air flow which can cause a lean condition not a rich condition if the PCM does not adjust to the increase in airflow.
in this instance i would check the fuel injectors, if they are a type R fuel injector and not meant for that engine that may be causing the issue, i am guessing for the Type R engine you have freeier airflow through the intake and ports meaning more air needs more fuel so they made the fuel injectors bigger, your engines PCM may be tuned for lesser air may not be compensating… who knows.
some faulty sensors as you stated may throw a code for that particular sensor as well as the rich condition.
I would see if you can get any codes to narrow down the issue, but it seems like the car may be having issues with something like a coolant temp sensor or intake temp sensor, i imagine its cooler in the morning and that may have an effect, so when it finally warms up its warm enough for the engine to run.
but first i would check for codes, don’t know the exact procedure for extracting codes for your vehicle but i will look it up.
alright missed that last part, i was told once that o2 sensors can have a impact on how the transmission operates, but you may be having some transmission issues but with the noise you are describing and with the other symptoms i am not sure, can you make a video of the noise?
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t37841_ds614438
hope this helps
also see if someone can plug a scanner in see if you can get some codes, could be as simple as a blown fuse, could be as complex as something needs some repairs.
engine light? have you scanned for any codes?
could be a maltitude of things, and sounds like you may also be having some transmission issues. what does the transmission fluid look like? is it at a correct level? when you check your transmission fluid level make sure your vehicle is on a level surface and you are using the correct procedure.
there is way more than power too weight, there is also gearing, torque, tires, suspension,
Good example was back in the day when the C-6 Z-06 made its appearance i think in 2006 they where pretty much a direct competition Rival with the Dodge Viper at the time, and power too weight was a big thing they compared, the Corvette had 505HP, and the viper had 510HP, but the vette weighed a couple hundred pounds less, so Corvette claimed better performance because they had better power to weight ratio.
well then the Viper fans then pointed the finger at the vipers better engine torque, i can’t remember the values exactly but the viper had more torque than the Corvette, exceeding 500LBFT while the Corvettes was something like 470-490LBFT i couldn’t remember… so there was the argument for the viper fans back and forth the argument went, which was faster… and in the end car and driver did a review and i have the magazine somewhere, and the Corvette had better track times and a quicker quarter mile by a narrow margin, it was very close!
what really made the Corvette faster, was not only the fact that it had a better power to weight ratio, but the engine had a higher rev… i think the engine of the LS-7 7 Liter V8 was a grand higher, at 7,000RPM, and the vipers V-10 could if i remember correctly only muster a 6,000RPM rev, so the Corvette didn’t need as tall of gears and you could really rev the engine up high between gears which made the difference.
a bad cam position sensor will typically cause a crank no start issue, so will a crankshaft position sensor, i have also seen camshaft position sensors fail on chryslers and cause the engine to sputter and stall out, as it intermittently fails, and then once you go to start the car its working again.
more than likely a crank no start issue is caused by either a electrical issue with the ignition switch, the battery and its connections, or the charging system not charging, or maybe some blown fuses or bad grounds.
you are already taking the first step, checking the battery is most important, a battery should have a voltage of about 12.6V give or take .2 volts or so, and should not drop below 9.6V on a fresh full charge during starting, another good way to check if its the battery or its connections is too turn your lights on bright, then have someone observe the lights, turn the kea to start the car, and if the lights go dim when you do that more than likely you have a dead battery or bad connections too the battery.
also make sure your battery connections are tight and clean.
scan for codes, see what codes you have and let us know, that can narrow things down, there can be a multitude of things that can cause this.
almost sounds like a miss, do you have any codes or a engine light?
could be just a missing cylinder, or internal engine damage that is causing a loss of compression on a cylinder and causing low power on a cylinder and some oil also to be burned in the process, hard to tell, that sounds a lot like you are missing on a cylnder or two, rather than a knock…
this is what rod knock sounds like, in a 3800 anyways.
not a happy noise, almost like finger nails on a chalkboard, but its not really going to all sound the same.
Moving this to service and repair questions here, had the same issue by the way, had a code for the Coolant temperature sensor, and because the code was on as a safe measure the PCM kept the fans on…
if you have a engine light, and a code for the coolant temperature sensor, then try erasing the code and see what that does, worked for me. if not, you may need a coolant temp sensor, or something may be wrong with the wiring too it, also check your coolant levels.
eeh… i have some experience with modifying cars and yes bypassing the EGR can throw codes on your PCM, its a common modification among the 3800 performance enthisiest, which also includes free flowing cats with a 3 inch exhaust which the system can also be picky about the cat… but there are PCMs you can get re programmed that will ignore the EGR and even a cat delete, but these modifications are meant for track use only and are illegal in most cases. however this doesn’t stop most of the guys from doing it anyway.
now your lumpy idle however…. not sure that might be caused by the EGR buypass, but before we say it is, get the codes read and lets see what you have.