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I can say i relate to this, if someone loves their car or at least takes care of it i try to show good quality of work and show it a little extra love than i believe your average technician would. But if something comes into the shop with new species of mold growing on the interior and the owners idea of proper engine lubrication be that the crankcase sludge be of a specific consistency then i usually just do the repairs and send the car on its way.
To add to what College man stated if the alignment numbers are within spec that is what is most important, with that being said check your alignment and if everything is within spec then everything should be fine…
bad aligment is typically caused by bent or warn suspension components such as ball joints, bushings, ect… or bent subframe or frame… but i would have the actual aligment of the car checked and if that is within spec as College man stated, this should not effect your vehicle.
engine temperature should not exceed 220 degrees in most automobiles in any condition, engine temperatures are typically regulated with thermostat and fans between 190-220 degrees, on a cold day my car will run at its coolest 185 degrees but when it is parked on a hot day just idling at a parking lot the most it will reach according to my scan tool is about 221 degrees and the fans kick on… and this is with a aftermarket under drive water pump pulley.
as previously stated when driving up hill your car may run a little warmer, (mine does too with extended up hill hauls…) this is normal because the engine is working harder to pull the car up hill. as long as your engine temperature does not exceed the maximum that your car is rated car, and that is probably 220 degrees you should be fine.
best thing i can tell you is drive the truck over a peace of large cardboard and see where the leak drips, fallow the drip up, if you have to jack up the truck, remember a leak follows gravity down, and typically doesn’t reverse from the ariflow of the vehicle.
good places to check for leaks are the pan gasket, the seals like the front seals for the torque converter, and drive shaft seal too, and yes dipsticks can leak too, if you have too jack it up and put it on stands to see what you are working with and where the leak is coming from that would be a good start.
i just use your typical grease you use on suspension and steering components, go to a auto parts store and ask for some grease for ball joints and tie rod ends and you should have no issue finding some…
i would encurage you post this on the work in progress page as well, would be a interesting post as you go along with the project.
with enough ambition you can put what you want in that truck, with the tools and what not to do the job, i imagine anything from a Ford F-150 or other vehicles will fin in the van with some fabrication.
largely because plastic is cheep, you can use rubber hoses i would just make sure its something that won’t get eaten away by gasoline vapors, something that is oil resistant, and something that won’t get sucked closed by vacuum, did it all the time when fixing broken plastic lines for fuel system issues like PCV or what not.
i would make sure the mating surface for your drum on your hub surface is clean and make sure the hub is not spinning out of round or bent, make sure the drum isn’t wobbling as it spins… make sure the drum is firmly seated agents the hub, also try taking a couple of lugnuts and tighten them by hand so the drum is centered on the hub as possible.
also have a look at this
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
its kind of difficult to diagnose ticking noises or any noises on a internet forum… a ticking noise can be caused by a multitude of things.
I am not a honda expert but i know for a fact adjusting valves is not a easy task, i would make sure you are adjusting them correctly and to check for anything warn or bent or anything out of place too, it may not be your valves that are ticking could be something else, do you have a video of the ticking sound?
you could have a bad 02 sensor as college man has stated, but i wouldn’t replace parts until you know for sure that is the issue, by checking weather or not that part is bad.
there are really no PCV codes that i am aware of, PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation and as College man has already stated a P1151 is for a lack of switching on the upstream 02 sensor, this can mean it is bad or you have a lean condition as College man has stated. again check your 02 sensor readings with a scan tool with live data if you can, voltage of a upstream 02 sensor should fluctuate between .300 to .800 volts
if you had issues with your catalytic converter you would have a code for the catalytic converter itself being below efficiency, and as far as noises, do you have a recording of the nose you are hearing? hearing a noise can help a lot of us narrow down the issue… And as far as losing power with a bad catalytic converter, that is if the material inside melts down and restricts exhaust flow, and at that point that is a result of a REALLY bad catalytic converter failure and is not very common, typically they just wear out and aren’t as efficient as they should be anymore, and will make it difficult to pass emissions testing in some states that require emissions testing.
I have also moved this topic too service and repair questions answered here… this will help you better get help.