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synthetic will trap carbon deposites from blowby better which is supposed to prevent sludge build up, something to keep in mind with synthetic oil is though it has the same viscosity as a conventional “dyno oil.” it flows easier through parts, this may take a engine that is usually a little noisy with conventional oil and make it a little more noisy.
i also know the 3100 and 3400SFI engines are known to have piston slap as the pistons wear out quickly inside the cylinders causing excessive play which can make a sort of ticking noise, with enough of the cylinders doing this i have often heard people compare the sound their engine makes to that of a diesel engine. also something to note is sometimes the rockers come loose at times in the 3400 SFIs so just keep in mind these things.
if you switch coolants do a thorough flush of the system, if you stick with the green you can just add, the choice is yours.
before you polish that throttle body consider this, if you have the N/A L-36 3800 series II engine, the Supercharged L-67 Series II has a larger throttle body that will bolt right on, get a new throttle body, or maybe one used or used and clean it up make sure it works correctly, bolt it on… this may…. give you a little more top end power, but also consider the fact the 3800 has long narrow intake runners going to each cylinder inside the upper intake plenum, so naturally its going to have a lot of low end pickup naturally, you trying to get more top end power with a throttle body will have little effect on performance, especially polishing.
in this process you can kill two birds with one stone, properly replace a sticking throttle body, free up any restriction that may be caused by the smaller N/A throttle body.
as Hockeyclark has stated increasing power is the last of your concern, your first concern is how it is going to affect your drivetrain, and that is even a factor in the W body performance world, lots of guys swap out the old in radiator tranny cooler for a larger external mounted cooler, when you put a greater load on your drivetrain your transmission is going to suffer the most, make sure it has plenty of opportunity to stay cool.
personally i would be really cautions about programs that change or effect your PCM, quite typically when someone does a “tune.” on their vehicle or in other words, when someone changes the settings on their power train control module that is more supportive of performance VS fuel economy or longevity of the vehicle they get a aftermarket power train control module for their vehicle that is specifically designed from the factory to give you better performance and to give you the capability to plug in a laptop or other device and “Tune.” your vehicle.
For my grand prix for example they do make aftermarket PCMs for my car, my cars PCM cannot be adjusted at all, in order for me to “tune.” my car it would require i get the aftermarket PCM from ZZP or another company that allow me to do so.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=168195]consider the fact that bearing supports 1/4 of the cars weight, and slams into pottholes, rocks, sticks, road bumps, and a host of other things, a hammer is going to do nothing more than all those things will do ;)[/quote] and at this point it has to come out, you really don’t have much other choice, hammer hammer!
consider the fact that bearing supports 1/4 of the cars weight, and slams into pottholes, rocks, sticks, road bumps, and a host of other things, a hammer is going to do nothing more than all those things will do 😉
and a propane torch will not damage your bearing, if you fear that take a VERY WET SET OF RAGS, and cover the bearing hub in wet rags, have a fire extinguisher ready in case, heat up the backing plate not the bearing hub.
if you had a vice i would suggest putting the backing plate into the vice as close to the hub as possible and give it a couple good wacks in the direction it has to come out on the hub itself.
thanks for the tip onyx, my grandpa had that issue with his Buick Century before i owned it, he replaced that turn signal stick himself to save money!
i would look at it first, make sure the wiring is in good shape and the electrical connections are not corroded, you don’t want to spend the money if you don’t have too, if you know its bad then replace it, more than likely it is, but just to be safe check the wiring and electrical connections.
i wish i could be right there holding that part in my hand to have a better look at it, usually the hub assembly on an automobile just unbolts from the steering knuckle and isn’t attached to a splash shield, perhaps the splash shield is part of the unit?
if you have codes for a map sensor that would explain rough idle and loss of power, first check the wiring too the sensor and the connections to make sure they are clean, then try cleaning it first with MAF sensor cleaner if it is the wired type which it probably is, if that doesn’t work then you probably have to replace your MAF sensor.