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all these ideas suggested are good ideas and i support them myself, a leak down test won’t hurt either.
most vehicles are designed to shut off their AC Compressor at full throttle as to reduce load on the AC Compressor and also as to free up power for the engine. So if you are applying enough of your throttle going up hill its possible your AC Compressor is disengaging and as a result your AC goes warm.
it also is possible your engines radiator is getting really warm going up hill and heating up your Condenser to the point it can no longer condense the fluid going through it so it cant be condensed to re evaporate again but in that case your engine would have to be over heating and you aren’t complaining about that so it is less likely. My next question would be is how much throttle are you applying to go up hills?
what is your engine temperature at the time? also how far is the throttle applied when climbing mountains?
a compression test will tell him the compression of his engine, it will really give him a idea of what kind of condition the piston rings and valve seats are, not a bad idea, but doing a oil pressure test is also a good idea, this will help give him an idea what the bearings inside his engine are like, if there is excessive clearance in the bearings the pressure may be low, or even fluctuate excessively.
A compression test wouldn’t be a bad idea, but i believe this would be more critical if he was having issues with a rough running engine because of power being low on or a couple of the cylinders so the compression test probably isn’t the only thing he should do. and Bluesnut also stated it could be from the cam as well could be a multitude of things, having the oil analyzed won’t hurt either.
it is possible considering some detergents in synthetic oils may clean out a engine more, also a oil gauge on your instrument panel is no substitute to actually plugging a direct oil pressure gauge into your engine, that way you can not only measure oil pressure but how even your oil pressure is.
You can just keep driving it, but putting 10W-30 in it over 5W-30 won’t really help much as the vescocity of the oil will be the same for both when the engine is warmed up,
quite commonly the motors for the door locks burn out on the GM cars and you have to unlock them manually after a car gets so old, could be wiring too, or lack of proper lubrication to mechanical components, check to make sure that everything is clean and not bound up by dirt and grime, and then check the wiring and the mechanical and if all else passes then its probably the servos for the door locks.
agreeing with DaFirnz, if its designed for your truck it should be fine, but if not if its designed for your truck it may not cool efficently enough or fit into your truck, but you are probably referring to a aftermarket radiator for your truck.
Never knew the intake for the L-36 was oval ported, now i know…
Lower intake manifold gasket leaks on the 3800 are a very common known issue covered in my patter failures post, and its not just caused by the dexcool, i have seen cars converted to Glycol do it as well, including my old Regal. the simple issue is the gaskets are plastic as GrandPrix46 has stated, the engine gets hot and cold, hot and cold, the plastic gets brittle, and the little rubber parts that are designed to seal the coolant in crack and leak, it fails, coolant leaks out the sides of the engine from the intake manifold lower plenum or pool in the valleys through the bolts between the heads and the upper plenum, and worse case scenario the coolant leaks into the oil, and can ruin your rod and main bearings, shortening the life of your engine. The replacement gaskets have nice thick rubber seals much more adiquate for sealing than the thin rubber seals on the plastic gaskets, and the frames are made of metal, most mechanics i know recommend the Felpro brand, and that’s what they are commonly called “Metal Felpo intake gaskets.”
If you are going to replace the lower intake manifold gasket with the throttle body i would highly suggest also replacing the coolant elbows that link the lower intake manifold and front cover to the belt tensioner assembly that route coolant to the heater core, these are also made of plastic, and also get brittle and crack and leak, replace them with the newer aluminum replacement parts, for maybe a couple of bucks you will never have that issue again, VS having to frequently replace them, I have done this personally to my own Grand Prix.
what you have to keep in mind is that there are a lot of devices and “chips.” out there that claim to give you more horsepower and are mymics or rip offs, a lot of Ebay garbage, i would simply be cautious. There is also almost no gains to be had from a tune with a stock car, maybe pick up on a little acceleration and remove the the governor, tunes make a real difference when the engine is built for performance, especially with turbochargers where you can control how much boost the turbo puts out and your air fuel mixtures.
As GrandPrix46 probably already knows, aftermarket PCMs by ZZP for example are purpose built for tuning and performance, these are far more capable at giving you gains especually in the performance world, when people throw on 3.4Inch pulleys or turbos that’s typically what the do, just go with a aftermarket PCM.
P-0740 is the correct code.
Most vehicles have a torque converter clutch that are automatic, in that instance it is going to need a torque converter clutch solenoid, in the instance it malfunctions the torque converter clutch can get stuck closed or a common issue with the 4t60e and 4t65e transmissions in GM cars get stuck open and not close.