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a common cause of this issue is the crank sensor, the vehicle will drive great for a while, then when it warms up it will just quit, as the crank sensor goes out the vehicle does not know which cylinder too fire its fuel injectors and spark plugs at what time… they commonly go out at high mielages, and i don’t know what codes they would set besides maybe some missfire codes.
other things that can cause your engine too stall out is the MAF sensor, it can cause the engine too not understand how much air is going into your engine… causing commonly a lean condition, causing your engine too stall beacuse there is not enough fuel in the fuel too air mixture, however you may see a code and it would commonly not just up and stall and not start like you are experiencing…
personally it sounds like a crank sensor too me, too replace it you will have to remove the Harmonic balancer and you will need a special pulley puller too get it off and probably a impact gun too get that nut off.
hope this helps
a common cause of this issue is the crank sensor, the vehicle will drive great for a while, then when it warms up it will just quit, as the crank sensor goes out the vehicle does not know which cylinder too fire its fuel injectors and spark plugs at what time… they commonly go out at high mielages, and i don’t know what codes they would set besides maybe some missfire codes.
other things that can cause your engine too stall out is the MAF sensor, it can cause the engine too not understand how much air is going into your engine… causing commonly a lean condition, causing your engine too stall beacuse there is not enough fuel in the fuel too air mixture, however you may see a code and it would commonly not just up and stall and not start like you are experiencing…
personally it sounds like a crank sensor too me, too replace it you will have to remove the Harmonic balancer and you will need a special pulley puller too get it off and probably a impact gun too get that nut off.
hope this helps
i agree with what he says, wires commonly go around that area for ABS systems, if you are working on your brakes or doing ball joints, tie rod ends or suspension components, sometimes a pickle fork as in your case, or another tool can slip and smack the sensor or break the wire… causing your system too go “hay, i am getting incorrect or no signal from so and so sensor…”
when working on cars i have noticed just as much as sensors fail the wiring going too them get broken or corroded and cause the failure, especially if the car gets worked on and they get damaged during the working process!
i agree with what he says, wires commonly go around that area for ABS systems, if you are working on your brakes or doing ball joints, tie rod ends or suspension components, sometimes a pickle fork as in your case, or another tool can slip and smack the sensor or break the wire… causing your system too go “hay, i am getting incorrect or no signal from so and so sensor…”
when working on cars i have noticed just as much as sensors fail the wiring going too them get broken or corroded and cause the failure, especially if the car gets worked on and they get damaged during the working process!
[quote=”college man” post=57841]The code may or may not set. :)[/quote]
thanks a lot, you and this website are the first too finally give me an answer that makes sense… the Pressure Control Solenoid typically fails when the engine reaches operational temperature, and if it does fail then how can it regulate pressures correctly too operate the transmission! now that i know what it probably is, i can finally take the next step and figure out how to get it fixed!
[quote=”college man” post=57841]The code may or may not set. :)[/quote]
thanks a lot, you and this website are the first too finally give me an answer that makes sense… the Pressure Control Solenoid typically fails when the engine reaches operational temperature, and if it does fail then how can it regulate pressures correctly too operate the transmission! now that i know what it probably is, i can finally take the next step and figure out how to get it fixed!
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=57803]Do you have any bog down? Does it seem as if the car always has it brakes applied? I got a simular issue my car will not shift out of 1st until it hits 40mph second i let off the gas car slows at a steady pace like i am using the ebrake.[/quote]
nope, it does not seem to bog, plenty of power, just neglects too shift till about 3,000 RPM or seems to go into neutral between first and second gear.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=57803]Do you have any bog down? Does it seem as if the car always has it brakes applied? I got a simular issue my car will not shift out of 1st until it hits 40mph second i let off the gas car slows at a steady pace like i am using the ebrake.[/quote]
nope, it does not seem to bog, plenty of power, just neglects too shift till about 3,000 RPM or seems to go into neutral between first and second gear.
thank you for your post! i did not know the pressure control solenoid could cause that many issues, however it never seems to go into a long shift adapt mode, nor do i ever get a P1811 code on my PCM for my transmission, maybe there is a ray of hope after all…
however could this be bad and not set any codes at all?
thanks again.
thank you for your post! i did not know the pressure control solenoid could cause that many issues, however it never seems to go into a long shift adapt mode, nor do i ever get a P1811 code on my PCM for my transmission, maybe there is a ray of hope after all…
however could this be bad and not set any codes at all?
thanks again.
i guess too me it depends where you work some dealerships pay ok if you can work the flat rate system but i have heard many mechanics say they would rather work dollar per hour pay beacuse the flat rate system can kill you! i am a fresh technician, i was working as a fleet mechanic fixing light trucks and changing oil on them, knew enough too drop a gas tank on a Dodge truck almost buy myself… but some things i needed too learn and lets just say they expected me too know everything off the bat.
i digress i was getting paid 10 bucks an hour too fix there crappy rusted too bits trucks, the workers we called “Mow ons” beacuse, well they mowed lawns and did landscaping did a poor job of taking care of there vehicles, some of them smelt so bad, 10 bucks an hour for that kind of job for me was low pay, but then i got laid off and now getting paid minimum wage too work in a crappy factory, what i would do for a mechanics job again.
i guess too me it depends where you work some dealerships pay ok if you can work the flat rate system but i have heard many mechanics say they would rather work dollar per hour pay beacuse the flat rate system can kill you! i am a fresh technician, i was working as a fleet mechanic fixing light trucks and changing oil on them, knew enough too drop a gas tank on a Dodge truck almost buy myself… but some things i needed too learn and lets just say they expected me too know everything off the bat.
i digress i was getting paid 10 bucks an hour too fix there crappy rusted too bits trucks, the workers we called “Mow ons” beacuse, well they mowed lawns and did landscaping did a poor job of taking care of there vehicles, some of them smelt so bad, 10 bucks an hour for that kind of job for me was low pay, but then i got laid off and now getting paid minimum wage too work in a crappy factory, what i would do for a mechanics job again.
I forgot too add, when i changed the fluid which was really no more than 10,000 miles ago, it was only in need of changing just a slightly darker color… it was not burnt, wasn’t black did’t smell funny, and there was hardly any particulates in the pan, the tranny fluid now is at a almost perfect level, just right, and its a nice pink color and smells just like it should… which further supports my theory its of some sort of strange electrical issue and the trans is not slipping.
thanks for reminding me too add that 🙂
I forgot too add, when i changed the fluid which was really no more than 10,000 miles ago, it was only in need of changing just a slightly darker color… it was not burnt, wasn’t black did’t smell funny, and there was hardly any particulates in the pan, the tranny fluid now is at a almost perfect level, just right, and its a nice pink color and smells just like it should… which further supports my theory its of some sort of strange electrical issue and the trans is not slipping.
thanks for reminding me too add that 🙂