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that is not a common known issue for the 3800, it sounds like a very rare failure. sometimes the 3800 is known for having lifters collapse, perhaps a manufacturing error with the bearings in the roller on the lifter.
SIMPLE COMMENT TO THIS
In my experiences, when trying to be a mechanic, it was impossible to get a job because i didn’t have experience, I can’t get experience without a job, and I was tired of paying for tools, I just saw my passion for working on cars becoming a job I regretted, and owing my soul to the tool truck.As far as other jobs that require skill, I see the time and money it takes to get a education for them is hardly worth the effort at this point in my life, leaving my somewhat stable job that pays well, that requires my full dedication and attention, to go in soul crushing debt to get a education that hardly gets me in the door because I don’t have experience. And most of the skills trades jobs my shop offers that I work at aren’t all that worth it, and will basically leave me stuck to the job I am at until the debt is paid, which is not what I want, if other opportunities present themselves, I want that opportunity to leave.
MORE LENGTHY RESPONSE.
Here are my experiences when becoming a Mechianic, I graduated from MCTI with honors at the top of my class with Certifications through the state of Michigan such as, brakes, suspension and front end alignment, electrical, and engine tune up… now after getting all these certifications and my honors award and all my certificates, I was ambitions and ready to rock and roll!I go into the automotive program and immediatly get a job, but the job was sort of a flop. The job was a Mechanic for a lawn and landscape business with a few bays and a single lift, we worked on small trucks such as Dodge 1500s and 2500s, and Ford F-150 F-250 F-350 trucks. I did work on a few cars, but most of the work I did was on trucks. Most of these trucks spent time in excessive road salt, and were rusted to peaces, and most of the tools I had at my disposal were very basic tools that just about every mechanic starts off with.
The issue I had going in was I felt very overwhelmed and pushed, I was expected to perform like a experienced Mechanic, and I was fresh out of school, I replaced the Managers son who was now at this point working at a parts store, so the pressure was not only high for me because I was expected to work at his pace, but also know where all the places where in the town they were at so I could fix crap on the fly when it broke down in the middle of nowhere.
Long story short this didn’t pan out well, and i became very discouraged and bored with it, I started losing focus and slowing down, and eventually when the business got slow due to lack of snow to plow, and the summer lack of grass mowing due to drought, I was laid off and had to take all my tools back to be stored at my Grandpas.
Immediately after being laid off I tried to get another job as a Mechanic which seemed impossible, every shop wanted a Mechanic with experienced and cared nothing for my certifications or my school certificates or honor award, they wanted a guy with experience, but I couldn’t get experience if I couldn’t get in the door to a good shop where I could learn to be a mechanic…
The end result, I was running out of money, I needed to get the job to pay the bills, at the same time my cars engine had spun it’s rod and main bearings and I owed my grandpa money on the replacement engine in the car, so… I had to get a job and pay the bills! Got a job in a shop called Volcor and never looked back at the mechanics buisness.
Now I work at a place called Ventra that makes truck bumpers, stamps the steel, chrome plates it, and assembles the bumpers on the steel chrome plated or painted shells. Now again I have a opportunity to advance into a “Skills trade program.” But again here is the issue!
The “Skilled trade programs.” include… “Maintenance”, and Dir repair. just the two big ones, the issue I have with these programs is their “Apprenticeship program.” Now i could walk right in and show them all my certifications and all my certificates for the auto program, and the CAS program i took to get into auto which included Advanced algebra, measuring tools, ect… but it would mean nothing to them, and for the next 8 years I would owe my soul to the company for the costs of the program they want to put me through just to work the skills trades programs they require me to take. The issue I see is I don’t see the shop I am working at as a stable enough job to rely on them with that, and most of their skills trades programs aren’t actually that skilled… Most times guys just fix things with zip ties and duct tape just to get things by, and when ever there is something big that needs fixed they just bring in a outside company to work on things, so me it’s not even worth it.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=188310]Perhaps something to do with the ABS.[/quote]
This, sometimes with ABS the sensor in the wheel bearing assembly can be slightly damaged or the toothed ring cracked, this can cause a rapid pulsation in the pedal just before a stop when breaking without tripping any lights on the dash. it will cause the sensor to fail in such a way it simply sends a difference in voltage for that wheel to the computer causing the system to think that wheel has slipped, engaging the ABS.
My grandfathers truck is currently doing this, it’s pedal pulses just before a stop, but my grandfather doesn’t care because the truck still drives just fine, it’s more of an annoyance than a danger to him i guess.
[quote=”Bonnieman” post=188335]It certainly isn’t anything normal that we see in the US and I wouldn’t want those particles to start blocking any brake fluid passages.
If your car is still covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, bring the car to the dealer’s service department and have them explain why this is happening.
It may be a known problem.
Your dealer might insist on replacing the brake fluid and, in a country as humid as Malaysia, this is recommended every 20K km, anyway.[/quote]This is true, Break fluid with a exception of DOT 5 which is a silicone based fluid not used in cars is moisture absorbent, change your fluids frequently in those conditions. I agree with this statement, but to add, what do the small black peaces feel like when you hold or pinch them between your fingers? reason being the only thing that I can think of are the possible rubbers seals inside your master cylinder breaking apart and getting into your master cylinder.
Have you checked your parking brake, my grandfather had that happen to his truck once, his parking break was on, and it of coarse illuminated his parking break light, but it was only enough to turn on the light.
As for the whole diagnosis part, in order to really diagnose electrical issues you need the ability to test the battery and alternator. You always start with the battery then work your way up, static voltage for a battery should be around 12.6V and shouldn’t drop below 9.6V during starting, and it’s connections should be tight and clean just as you stated you checked, the charging system should have a voltage of reading of 13.5 to 14.5 Volts with the engine running at the battery, lower than that and it’s possibly a bad alternator, higher than that and it’s possibly a bad regulator.
put simply, turbochargers quite commonly require a PCM that understands boost, a fuel system that can keep up with the demands of the increased air flow and volume, and a engine and transmission and cooling system that can put up with the increased demands in power and heat.
Your transmission very well may not be able to handle the abuse.
Your cooling system very well may not be able to cool the engine under boost
Your fuel system very well may run lean and make your engine go bang.
Your head gasket very well may start exchanging coolant with other fluids in your engine
Your bearings and connecting rods may very well decide they want to be on the outside of your engine rather than the inside.
Your PCM very well may not only throw a engine light, but also may very well not understand boost, resulting in engine annihilation.
There are lots of factors involved with forced induction, you also have to consider positive crankcase ventilation and your break booster which will very well require your hoses being re routed after the turbo rather than before, and also insuring the turbo under boost doesn’t suck oil into the intake turning your car into a smoking locomotive that puts pressure on your break booster.
My more detailed response to this below made some time ago, and… my thoughts put simply, it’s never a cut and dry case whether or not it adds power, and how much power it adds, lots of factors involved, and yes the K&N kits are commonly over advertised.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/5-Engine-Modifications/51441-theory-on-aftermarket-intakes
Quite commonly when it comes to increasing power there is no cheep answer to making a car fast, and the biggest setback for making some cars fast is do they have the parts market to support adding power?
Can the transmission and support added power? and if not which is quite commonly the case, what do they have available as far as making your transmission a little more rugged?
Can the cooling system keep the engine cool when under boost? and if not what do the have available for better radiators and cooling systems that can keep the engine cool under added power?
Will the fuel system continue to add enough fuel for the increased air flow because of the turbo? if not are there parts available to meet fuel demands for boost?
and is there ways to tune or program your cars PCM to run boost?
How about the engine itself? can the crank, main and rod bearings handle the stress? how about the head gasket, can it take increased combustion chamber pressures?
I am not eric, but i know a few things about forced induction.
Under normal aspiration you have your natural 14.7 PSI of atmospheric pressure at sea level trying to get into your engine, if you are trying to increase power under natural asperation quite commonly people try to increase static compression and reduce the size of the combustion chamber volume by going with smaller combustion chambers or domed pistons or both, while at the same time promoting good air flow with large valves, free flowing ported and polished intake and exhaust runners, as well as changing the valve timing to promote better air flow at higher RPMs to increase power.
With forced induction however things are as you stated different, the air going into the engine is exceeding or greatly exceeding the 14.7PSI at sea level of atmospheric pressure, and you have a new set of challenges to meet, with forced induction quite commonly to keep the octane requirements lower people reduce compression and compensate by adding more boost, and with forced induction because you are cramming more air and fuel in rather than just compressing it tighter you are dealing with a lot more heat! especually if you are running alcohol or E.85 so you can play with more boost.
Good valve seats and valves as you stated are a must! because the exhaust valves are going to be opening and letting in much higher temperature gasses out during the exhaust stroke, as a result if the valves and valve seats aren’t up for the job, the valve seats can soften or even crack if they are crap valve seats, and you can loose a lot of power due to leaking compression! also good valve timing can help, with forced induction quite frequently a change in valve timing for a little more oreanted towards forced induction can help with a turbo, also good head gaskets, or even a decent head that can support the increased flow and volume of air, as well as hold up under the abuse is very important, so you don’t end up with blown head gaskets.
you have to forgive me because I don’t know as much about this engine as I do a 3800 or what ever, but if a engine is low on compression or has none there has to be a reason and I am trying to think of why…
I would personally check your valve timing too, valves possibly opening at the wrong time letting compression out?
squirt some oil into the cylinders and see if that brings the compression up, kind of odd you don’t have any compression at all.
as far as oil pressure, maybe the pump isn’t picking any oil up did you put oil in the oil filter and all that jazz?
when it comes to electrical issues with cars the first thing I always start with is the battery, the battery is the heart of the system, if it’s bad a lot of wonkey things can go on.
A batteries static voltage should be around 12.6 Volts, and shouldn’t drop below 9.6 Volts during starting. Your connections should be clean and tight to the battery, so should the grounds, check for corrosion at battery and terminals, sometimes a intermittent no start issue can be caused by loose or corroded terminals and fiddling with things can cause things to line up properly enough to start the vehicle.
i have moved this to service and repair questions answered here, and it sounds like a blown head gasket from my personal experience.
Carbon deposites wouldn’t necissarily form on intake valves because of a lack of fuel, carbon build up happens more commonly because of carbon build up because fuel is not being burned properly and sort of gathers on the valves as a soot.
Carbon build up is more likely to happen if your engine is running rich, without fuel you cannot have carbon build up because carbon build up is essentially a result of somewhat incomplete burned fuel.