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Hope everybody had a happy and safe thanksgiving. I’ve had no luck with finding the connector, thought it would be easy since there is no glove box. It has the door but when opened you see all the guts. Found 4 connectors, three for airbag, at least one the other two doesn’t seem to do anything when I unplug them from some kind of box. I assume it’s an airbag module. And the fourth is for the AC. Either which way when they are unplugged the dinging continues. Seems like I got a car that shouldn’t exist. Lol my luck. If anyone has any further ideas I would appreciate it big time. Don’t want to cut the dinger, I need it so I don’t forget my lights or keys. I’m often rushing around and hate to admit it but that thing has saved me more than once. Thanks again
A little background on the car. It wasn’t a cruiser. Either a detectives car or some sort of community service car. Found paper work in the car with a detective name on it. So I’m going with a detective. There was never a cage put in and the normal back seat was never removed. The interior is mint so am quite positive it was never a regular cruiser. There was an issue with the auction and I ended up filing a complaint with the city for bait and switch. The car listed was not the car being auctioned. A few issues were reported and am fighting with the city’s fleet dept. would rather not call about that. I will see if I can find the connector and disconnect. Will report back as soon as I can
Not sure if this will help, but I have a 2001 jeep and the cluster RPM would die, the speedo would die, oil pressure would spike, voltage would spike, check engine, air bags, srs as I was driving. For a while my fix was to smack the cluster pretty good, after a while that stopped working. I took out the cluster and cleaned all contacts and put electrical greese in the plugs to ensure good contact. It’s been about 7 mo and all is well. Might want to give that a shot. Also if you have a scanner see if the PCM is displaying the same. I doubt it is and just the cluster
OK just some quick details, seat belt does work as far as when it is not connected the light is on and will get the ding ding. The air bags seem to function ok, passenger in the car and lights up “air bag on” when no passenger is in the car it’s off. No lights are on the dash so all seems healthy and normal. It only occurs when the dash cluster hits 75. GPS says 73 so I believe Nodak81 is correct. It must be some function but not sure to which. I will connect a scanner to see what the PCM is displaying for speed but assume it will match the cluster. My seat belt is on and the speed limit is 75 so it’s quite annoying if you drop under it stops or if you go over it stops but as soon as you get to 75 ding ding. Doesn’t matter if your going 80 and slow down or if 70 and speed up. 75 is the magic number. Thanks Nodak81, I did a search and couldn’t find anything, just a bunch of speed times 0-75 stuff like that. Hopefully will have some time this weekend or if it pisses me off to much on my commute tomorrow. Again thanks to all of you out there and happy thanksgiving
I might be a little late and seems the car is running good wich is great. Seen a few things you said and have found a few statements with error. I have a 99 civic which had a blown head gasket and was causing random over heating ( different from your issues) but performed the same test as far as compression. Found all cylinders had normal compression as well. Posted here and all said air in the coolant. It was a bad head gasket. 2,3,4 were leaking. Do a block test if you want to check a head gasket, faiel immeately on mine. Also Eric is right as far as aftermarket parts. After wasting thousands I only go to honda for parts. I don’t do this with my other cars, but with that honda 👿 despicably never use any ignition parts other than Honda or guarantee you will regret
👿 👿 :S Ok Had to go out of town for a few days and this weekend was to put all back together. when I took the car apart I brought the crank pulley to the pointer, the cam mark was good and the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1. Took all apart, the crank was never turned but the head was brought to a shop. When I got the head back i just allinigned the marks to TDC and all seemed to go togther fine, once belt and pilley were on all marks were good and when i put the distributor back on the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1, seemed good and put all back toghter. Car will not start :blink: cranking seems fine but seems that i have no spark? checked for 12v (blue/white wire to GND) at coil =OK, Ohm out coil and is 1.2 ohm’s the book says .45 – .55 ohm’s. Cant belive anything went bad with distributor was sitting untouched on work bench the whole time. I seem to have a habbit of running down the wrong road so before I do this I thought i would seek advice. Am I missing something any thoughts, could use them Thanks
👿 👿 :S Ok Had to go out of town for a few days and this weekend was to put all back together. when I took the car apart I brought the crank pulley to the pointer, the cam mark was good and the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1. Took all apart, the crank was never turned but the head was brought to a shop. When I got the head back i just allinigned the marks to TDC and all seemed to go togther fine, once belt and pilley were on all marks were good and when i put the distributor back on the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1, seemed good and put all back toghter. Car will not start :blink: cranking seems fine but seems that i have no spark? checked for 12v (blue/white wire to GND) at coil =OK, Ohm out coil and is 1.2 ohm’s the book says .45 – .55 ohm’s. Cant belive anything went bad with distributor was sitting untouched on work bench the whole time. I seem to have a habbit of running down the wrong road so before I do this I thought i would seek advice. Am I missing something any thoughts, could use them Thanks
Also no check engine light was on. I have a elm327 and that showed no codes, I know its not the best scanner butr would thing it would pick up something about the O2 sensors. I think it will not work for fule related issues though.
Also no check engine light was on. I have a elm327 and that showed no codes, I know its not the best scanner butr would thing it would pick up something about the O2 sensors. I think it will not work for fule related issues though.
Thanks for the reply Eric, I bought a spill proof funnel to bleed the cooling system. I dont belive the car has a bleed screw, so i attached the funnel and let it go for a hour and a half, bubbles never stoped. I day later repeated the same procees for two hours and again the bubbles never stoped. I watced your video on bleeding the cooling system and followed it to the T. I belive that process should have removed all of the air in the system. I agree about replacing everything before diagnosing, at the time thought it was the right thing to do. Lesson well learned. As far as the OM honda parts, another lesson well learned. After replacing the fan switch with a Honda one it did run much better, but still the overheat. By testing and second guessing my crap parts, I went through two thermostats even though the testing was correct, by eliminating parts one by one and with some help with the guys from the site it seemed a bad head gasket was the cause. it just threw me for a loop with oil and exaust being perfect, was looking for “milk” or smoke. So ripped off the head and brought to the local shop and the guy said cylinders 2,3,4 were leaking. I bought a good (i hope) steel head gasket around 200.00, would you coat that in the copper paint or just install as is? I would think that it being steel would not have to coat it with anything? thanks for the info as far as the two dowels, was looking everywhere for the other two with no luck. I cantt figure out why the head gasket went bad though, the car does have 180k and did over heat a few times, couldve that caused it? Thanks again and hope all is good with you, what youve done in my eyes is awesome thanka, Mike
Thanks for the reply Eric, I bought a spill proof funnel to bleed the cooling system. I dont belive the car has a bleed screw, so i attached the funnel and let it go for a hour and a half, bubbles never stoped. I day later repeated the same procees for two hours and again the bubbles never stoped. I watced your video on bleeding the cooling system and followed it to the T. I belive that process should have removed all of the air in the system. I agree about replacing everything before diagnosing, at the time thought it was the right thing to do. Lesson well learned. As far as the OM honda parts, another lesson well learned. After replacing the fan switch with a Honda one it did run much better, but still the overheat. By testing and second guessing my crap parts, I went through two thermostats even though the testing was correct, by eliminating parts one by one and with some help with the guys from the site it seemed a bad head gasket was the cause. it just threw me for a loop with oil and exaust being perfect, was looking for “milk” or smoke. So ripped off the head and brought to the local shop and the guy said cylinders 2,3,4 were leaking. I bought a good (i hope) steel head gasket around 200.00, would you coat that in the copper paint or just install as is? I would think that it being steel would not have to coat it with anything? thanks for the info as far as the two dowels, was looking everywhere for the other two with no luck. I cantt figure out why the head gasket went bad though, the car does have 180k and did over heat a few times, couldve that caused it? Thanks again and hope all is good with you, what youve done in my eyes is awesome thanka, Mike
Ok so the head is off, but when I removed it 2 dowel pins fell off. I collected them but only found 2. went online to buy replacements and only com two to a pack. My question is are ony two needed or should there be four. looked every where and can only find two so i guess thats all that is needed? thanks to everyone again, Mike
Ok so the head is off, but when I removed it 2 dowel pins fell off. I collected them but only found 2. went online to buy replacements and only com two to a pack. My question is are ony two needed or should there be four. looked every where and can only find two so i guess thats all that is needed? thanks to everyone again, Mike
Don’t think it is the meter. I would measure the AMP from the connector, maybe not enough current to drive fan, or the fan motor has to much resistance. You could OHM out to check. Compare with another or else it might be in line with what wysetech said