[Michele Pensotti]

Hey Eric, this video is…WOW :woohoo:

I was eagerly waiting to see the GoPro camera at work, and I have to say it gave me a completely new perspective on how you work and move around, sorta like being a smurf on the top of a giant’s head 😉

You are a lot more agile than one would think, your gym sessions gave their results!

I admit that with some of your sudden turns I also felt some motion sickness, but I cured that (at least partially) by lowering the video resolution, since my netbook was having problems to keep up with the HD frame rate.

It’s nice to see how you move and when you stop to think, because you do too! :cheer:
Well I thought I was the only one that stopped to think things around before actually getting the wrench (or whatever tool) in the hand and do my thing with it.

By the way, I have a colleague at work that likes nordic walking in the mountains and he did some videos when walking with his own GoPro , and he managed to put it on his forehead instead of his hat, and this caused a better “human eye” perspective, and the sudden swings or turns were less pronounced.

I don’t know, seeing your GoPro so high on the hat made me think “something will obstruct the lens visual” and in fact in the video there are some times when you are actually operating on something that is not visible or partially obstructed to the camera lens point of view.

Maybe lowering the camera support can do the trick?

However, a GREAT video , if the worst is this, what can we expect besides perfection? :cheer:

And also, you finally discovered the reason for those hesitations it has always had since the beginning and made you go “mad” to fix!
It was a thing that always bugged me and I’m happy it was finally fixed!

A nice last little present from the trusty Subie! Super happy with that! :woohoo:

About the voice over, maybe it’s me that particularly like listening to your voice , but it was ok.
Maybe you can improve the audio quality of the camera (with a new firmware or changing audio settings somewhere) and hopefully fix the cut-outs, in the meantime I really appreciated the whole package.

Thanks and…looking forward for the next POV video! :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

I can’t wait to see you actually weld that manifold! :woohoo:

It would be the first time we see you weld after the lessons from MrTig :cheer:

Have you ever tried to use a MIG welder? I have one and it’s quite “entertaining” to create or re-create parts from scrap metal 🙂

Oh, now that you mentioned Honda Preludes as being quite rare, I’ve been seeing a nice mint condition black one very near here.

Would you like to see some photos of it?

I had never seen a Prelude before, it’s actually a very nice looking car :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

I can’t wait to see you actually weld that manifold! :woohoo:

It would be the first time we see you weld after the lessons from MrTig :cheer:

Have you ever tried to use a MIG welder? I have one and it’s quite “entertaining” to create or re-create parts from scrap metal 🙂

Oh, now that you mentioned Honda Preludes as being quite rare, I’ve been seeing a nice mint condition black one very near here.

Would you like to see some photos of it?

I had never seen a Prelude before, it’s actually a very nice looking car :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Hello Xantia, what a nice nick 🙂

Just by chance is it somewhat related to your car’s model? 😉
Being a Citro-maniac (I have an AX and a BX) I could not avoid to notice it :cheer:

As for your ownership-tax-related situation, here in Italy the things aren’t much different

– mandatory yearly insurance; here too the price class uses a “bonus-malus”s system, and the price starts out highest in class 14 down to class 1 which is the cheapest; for each year without incidents a driver lowers his own class. If instead one does have an accident he does go up two classes
If you’re in 1st class, for a small car (1 liter engine), you can pay as low as 300 euros; for a bigger car the cost rises; if you’re in 14th class you’ll pay thousands of euros!!!!!! :sick:

– ownership tax; directly proportional to the KW of power of the engine; also, if the car is very polluting (lower Euro rating) , it will be surcharged to discourage its owner from polluting and instead change the car.

– bi-annual mandatory inspection (like the MOT in UK); depending on the region where one lives, the cost can range around 70 euros or more; this, of course, if the car actually *passes* the inspection.
If the car does not pass it, it will have to be repaired before it can circulate again.

Where I live (lombardy) there is a special reduction of the ownership tax if the car is over 20 years, and in this case one pays only 30 euros whatever the KW.
Also, if the car is accepted in a special old-cars club, the insurance is also reduced at a fixed price, around 200 euros

Also, here in Italy diesel costs a little less than gasoline; the advantage is even more pronounced since diesel cars have a better mileage.
However in this last years, a lot of people has purchased a bi-fuel car, that is a car that can run on gasoline OR LPG/Methane.
These gases cost about half of the gasoline price, and do pollute a lot less, but their yeld is a little poorer than gasoline.

One can also convert his gas-guzzling car into a bi-fuel car, with a little more than 1K euros.

So, lots of options, and lots of costs! 😆

The sad truth is we are sheeps and the government/oil companies/carmakers do shave and shave on our “fur” 😆 :silly:

Nice to meet you (probably) fellow Citronian 😉

Cheers to you and have a nice sip of LHM 😆

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Hello Xantia, what a nice nick 🙂

Just by chance is it somewhat related to your car’s model? 😉
Being a Citro-maniac (I have an AX and a BX) I could not avoid to notice it :cheer:

As for your ownership-tax-related situation, here in Italy the things aren’t much different

– mandatory yearly insurance; here too the price class uses a “bonus-malus”s system, and the price starts out highest in class 14 down to class 1 which is the cheapest; for each year without incidents a driver lowers his own class. If instead one does have an accident he does go up two classes
If you’re in 1st class, for a small car (1 liter engine), you can pay as low as 300 euros; for a bigger car the cost rises; if you’re in 14th class you’ll pay thousands of euros!!!!!! :sick:

– ownership tax; directly proportional to the KW of power of the engine; also, if the car is very polluting (lower Euro rating) , it will be surcharged to discourage its owner from polluting and instead change the car.

– bi-annual mandatory inspection (like the MOT in UK); depending on the region where one lives, the cost can range around 70 euros or more; this, of course, if the car actually *passes* the inspection.
If the car does not pass it, it will have to be repaired before it can circulate again.

Where I live (lombardy) there is a special reduction of the ownership tax if the car is over 20 years, and in this case one pays only 30 euros whatever the KW.
Also, if the car is accepted in a special old-cars club, the insurance is also reduced at a fixed price, around 200 euros

Also, here in Italy diesel costs a little less than gasoline; the advantage is even more pronounced since diesel cars have a better mileage.
However in this last years, a lot of people has purchased a bi-fuel car, that is a car that can run on gasoline OR LPG/Methane.
These gases cost about half of the gasoline price, and do pollute a lot less, but their yeld is a little poorer than gasoline.

One can also convert his gas-guzzling car into a bi-fuel car, with a little more than 1K euros.

So, lots of options, and lots of costs! 😆

The sad truth is we are sheeps and the government/oil companies/carmakers do shave and shave on our “fur” 😆 :silly:

Nice to meet you (probably) fellow Citronian 😉

Cheers to you and have a nice sip of LHM 😆

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

[quote=”Xyius” post=80539]I would go with what the manual says to put in and not try to switch oils just to see if it will fix your problem. (It isn’t likely to do anything damaging if you switch oils, but I am just strict like that) I have heard scotty kilmer recommend using AT-205 re-seal to fix problems like that. He seems to swear by it. I have never used it myself but it is worth a try I suppose.[/quote]

I have seen that Scotty’s video myself, and would have also purchased the AT-205 to solve my Fiat Punto’s JTD oil leaks, if it was available here in europe, but it isn’t (some problem with exporting it , since it ‘s considered an “hazardous material”) so I cannot really tell about its effectiveness.

Anyway I have always been using 5W30 oil in it since I purchased it used with 111000Kms in 2011, and this autumn I reviewed the user’s manual and it states that , besides 5W30, I can also use 10W40 semi-synt.

In the case of my Punto, 5W30 is reccomended for the coldest climates, 10W40 is more “general purpose”.

So I switched from 5W30 full synt to 10W40 semi-sinth and I noticed a noticeable reduction in the leaks, and now it doesn’t leave the usual small puddle of oil when I park it :cheer:

The curious thing is that the puddle did usually form when the car is hot, but then the leak stops when the car cools down; now it does not leak (that I can see at least! 😆 ) even when hot.

As a side note, besides the AT-205, I had found also another product that claimed the same “magical” seal swelling-softening-plasticizing abilities, and it is called “Liquid intellingence 230”.

Obviously it’s not available here either, so I could not try that neither. 🙁

That’s my two cents 🙂

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

[quote=”Xyius” post=80539]I would go with what the manual says to put in and not try to switch oils just to see if it will fix your problem. (It isn’t likely to do anything damaging if you switch oils, but I am just strict like that) I have heard scotty kilmer recommend using AT-205 re-seal to fix problems like that. He seems to swear by it. I have never used it myself but it is worth a try I suppose.[/quote]

I have seen that Scotty’s video myself, and would have also purchased the AT-205 to solve my Fiat Punto’s JTD oil leaks, if it was available here in europe, but it isn’t (some problem with exporting it , since it ‘s considered an “hazardous material”) so I cannot really tell about its effectiveness.

Anyway I have always been using 5W30 oil in it since I purchased it used with 111000Kms in 2011, and this autumn I reviewed the user’s manual and it states that , besides 5W30, I can also use 10W40 semi-synt.

In the case of my Punto, 5W30 is reccomended for the coldest climates, 10W40 is more “general purpose”.

So I switched from 5W30 full synt to 10W40 semi-sinth and I noticed a noticeable reduction in the leaks, and now it doesn’t leave the usual small puddle of oil when I park it :cheer:

The curious thing is that the puddle did usually form when the car is hot, but then the leak stops when the car cools down; now it does not leak (that I can see at least! 😆 ) even when hot.

As a side note, besides the AT-205, I had found also another product that claimed the same “magical” seal swelling-softening-plasticizing abilities, and it is called “Liquid intellingence 230”.

Obviously it’s not available here either, so I could not try that neither. 🙁

That’s my two cents 🙂

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Hello Adnoh 🙂 , I have a diesel car myself, and I live in Italy and here the diesels have about 50% of the car market nowadays, so I know lots of people that have diesel cars.

Let me tell you that the quality of diesel fuel varies A LOT from batch to batch, and the only thing that can help your engine stay alive and well is the fuel filter.
The fuel filter in diesels is even more important than on gasoline cars because it keeps water (which is contained in diesel fuel, sometimes) out of the fuel.
Remember that if ever some water should reach the high pressure rail fuel pump, and thus the injectors, it would KILL them both.

And these are quite costly parts, I assure you.

SO, if you want to do yourself a favor, change the diesel filter at least once a year; in fact it only has a definite capability to separate diesel and water, and it stores the excess water in itself.
When its water-storing capacity is full, it will let water pass beyond, so it will stop protecting your engine when it’s full of water.

Also, in winter use only diesel fuel that is specifically sold as “arctic” or “winter” blend.
Here in italy it’s sold as a standard in northern regions, but it’s always good to check BEFORE 😉

This special fuel contains additives that help it stay fluid even when it’s very cold outside; normal diesel fuel does turn into “paraffine”, which is A LOT thicker than diesel, and can clog both the fuel filter and the pump and injectors.

If it’s not available where you live, you can always put a separate additive that has the same function.
These are often called “diesel antifreeze”.

Also, every now and then I use a “diesel system cleaner” additive; this should help to keep the pump and injectors more clean.
It is also useful to pass inspections, if your engine does produce a lot of black smoke 😉

Hope this helps! :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Hello Adnoh 🙂 , I have a diesel car myself, and I live in Italy and here the diesels have about 50% of the car market nowadays, so I know lots of people that have diesel cars.

Let me tell you that the quality of diesel fuel varies A LOT from batch to batch, and the only thing that can help your engine stay alive and well is the fuel filter.
The fuel filter in diesels is even more important than on gasoline cars because it keeps water (which is contained in diesel fuel, sometimes) out of the fuel.
Remember that if ever some water should reach the high pressure rail fuel pump, and thus the injectors, it would KILL them both.

And these are quite costly parts, I assure you.

SO, if you want to do yourself a favor, change the diesel filter at least once a year; in fact it only has a definite capability to separate diesel and water, and it stores the excess water in itself.
When its water-storing capacity is full, it will let water pass beyond, so it will stop protecting your engine when it’s full of water.

Also, in winter use only diesel fuel that is specifically sold as “arctic” or “winter” blend.
Here in italy it’s sold as a standard in northern regions, but it’s always good to check BEFORE 😉

This special fuel contains additives that help it stay fluid even when it’s very cold outside; normal diesel fuel does turn into “paraffine”, which is A LOT thicker than diesel, and can clog both the fuel filter and the pump and injectors.

If it’s not available where you live, you can always put a separate additive that has the same function.
These are often called “diesel antifreeze”.

Also, every now and then I use a “diesel system cleaner” additive; this should help to keep the pump and injectors more clean.
It is also useful to pass inspections, if your engine does produce a lot of black smoke 😉

Hope this helps! :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Very interesting, I didn’t know Beetles had that kind of setup too 🙂

Thank you for this information! 😉

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Very interesting, I didn’t know Beetles had that kind of setup too 🙂

Thank you for this information! 😉

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Great job Jeff!

It might be boring, but in the end it will be very rewarding, both for your sight, the smell, and the health 🙂

I’ll have to do something like this myself on my AX; tried to skip some of the hard work by cleaning only the floor , but I know I’ll need to remove the seats to get to each and every spot!

Well done! :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

Great job Jeff!

It might be boring, but in the end it will be very rewarding, both for your sight, the smell, and the health 🙂

I’ll have to do something like this myself on my AX; tried to skip some of the hard work by cleaning only the floor , but I know I’ll need to remove the seats to get to each and every spot!

Well done! :cheer:

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=80240]Personally, I really like driving old cars. How do you feel?
[/quote]

I like old cars, they are….sincere, both when they work, and when they dont 😉
I know it sounds silly, but their simplicity is part of what makes me feel in control, and when I do something I know I don’t have to fight a thousand “intellingent” systems that try to fight my decision.

I understand this comes from my way of thinking about “driving the car”, and that is some very personal and private experience, where I try to “feel the road” through the car and through this feeling I do get a rewarding experience that in turn allows me to react and manage the controls at my disposition to the best extent I can reach.

I also understand that A LOT of people that drive a car do drive it only for…transportation 😆
Going from point A to point B, possibly withouth getting too much tired, withouth any accident, without stress, without consuming too much fuel, and without having to actually think about the path.

And modern cars do this very well, they insulate the drivers from “problems”, and from the bumps in the road, from the noise of the engine and tires, from the effort it takes to turn the steering wheel, from the effort it takes to get a correct temperature in the car, from the hassle of finding the road or looking for a gas station, etc etc…

Well I don’t like this at all, i *want to think* , I drive because I like the trip, for me it’s a rewarding experience and I *need* to feel it “unfiltered”. (like a cigarette 😆 )

In a way modern cars are more digital than you may actually think…in the sense that when they work always is “perfect”, but when something goes wrong then it all goes wrong, like 1 and 0 😉

Old cars are analog, they are literally filled with shades of gray, they start making a noise, and you know it’s the valves, then you feel that smell in the exhaust and you know it’s running rich, and then you pass over a bump and hear a “thump” and know the rear dampers are a little overcooked 😆

But she stills goes B)
She’s only telling you what she’d like 🙂

The simplicity is a road that can lead to something similar to trust, knowing, understanding.
Like an old trusty dog, you know how he is and he knows you, noone’s perfect, but the friendship stays.

And of course if it needs some repair you can count on its simplicity to make it a worthwhile experience. 😉
I’m not saying that ALL old cars are/were easy to work on!!! Some were real bitches, but in the end you know you can fix it, and don’t need to study quantum physics to understand WHY it’s behaving that way 😆

That’s my point on old cars 😉

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Michele Pensotti]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=80240]Personally, I really like driving old cars. How do you feel?
[/quote]

I like old cars, they are….sincere, both when they work, and when they dont 😉
I know it sounds silly, but their simplicity is part of what makes me feel in control, and when I do something I know I don’t have to fight a thousand “intellingent” systems that try to fight my decision.

I understand this comes from my way of thinking about “driving the car”, and that is some very personal and private experience, where I try to “feel the road” through the car and through this feeling I do get a rewarding experience that in turn allows me to react and manage the controls at my disposition to the best extent I can reach.

I also understand that A LOT of people that drive a car do drive it only for…transportation 😆
Going from point A to point B, possibly withouth getting too much tired, withouth any accident, without stress, without consuming too much fuel, and without having to actually think about the path.

And modern cars do this very well, they insulate the drivers from “problems”, and from the bumps in the road, from the noise of the engine and tires, from the effort it takes to turn the steering wheel, from the effort it takes to get a correct temperature in the car, from the hassle of finding the road or looking for a gas station, etc etc…

Well I don’t like this at all, i *want to think* , I drive because I like the trip, for me it’s a rewarding experience and I *need* to feel it “unfiltered”. (like a cigarette 😆 )

In a way modern cars are more digital than you may actually think…in the sense that when they work always is “perfect”, but when something goes wrong then it all goes wrong, like 1 and 0 😉

Old cars are analog, they are literally filled with shades of gray, they start making a noise, and you know it’s the valves, then you feel that smell in the exhaust and you know it’s running rich, and then you pass over a bump and hear a “thump” and know the rear dampers are a little overcooked 😆

But she stills goes B)
She’s only telling you what she’d like 🙂

The simplicity is a road that can lead to something similar to trust, knowing, understanding.
Like an old trusty dog, you know how he is and he knows you, noone’s perfect, but the friendship stays.

And of course if it needs some repair you can count on its simplicity to make it a worthwhile experience. 😉
I’m not saying that ALL old cars are/were easy to work on!!! Some were real bitches, but in the end you know you can fix it, and don’t need to study quantum physics to understand WHY it’s behaving that way 😆

That’s my point on old cars 😉

Live long and prosper (and stay dirty!)

10nico

[Author]

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