Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Just a little update.
I found my a/c works pretty much 100% with the recerculation button on. (had to turn my fan down as it was getting too cold-Mind you today was over 90*)
Anyone can give me any tips. Since it was over 90* today in NY with the a/c on without recerculation it was borderline warm, but still partly cold.
Anyone here want to see the reading on my gauges?
Should I have a/c on low or high (Fan) when I connect my gauges?
Doors open or closed?
Thanks everyone
Thanks Marc. I am going to test the expansion valve as you said. If it test ok I am going to go ahead and do what I said. I wont lose much, just about $100 including a new OEM condenser. and I am fairly confident I will not mess nothing up Eric, but thanks for the concern. I have vaccumed down and recharged a few cars already with great success. Diagnosing on the other hand is not as easy.
Thanks everyone, thanks Eric.
Well I am not COMPLETELY guessing however I am NOT 100% sure moisture in the system is my problem.
To properly diagnose it you would need a manifold gauge set
I do have a set.and observe the pressures and compare them to a temperature chart to evaluate the systems performance
I had a bit of trouble with this perhaps I could post here with temperature during my test and high and low pressures and someone could help?it could be an expansion valve that’s not working properly
Would a bad expansion valve cause partial cooling or just no cooling what so ever?it could be the cooling fan isn’t working,
My cooling fan is working.it could be a small leak somewhere,
I don’t believe it is a leak, I owned the car 5+ years and it has not gotten worse.it could be debris in front or behind the condenser,
I was thinking about this as well, perhaps when I get a chance ill take a look.Quoted From rice400:
An easy way to check for a restriction is equalizing time. Run the engine for a while and then shut the AC off. It shoud take at most 60 seconds for both low and high side pressures to equalize. If it takes longer, you have a restriction
Restriction could be a bad expansion valve?
My cabin filters are clean.
Will consider putting dye.
I have to look up the oil amount for receiver is there actually a considerable amount inside there? Didn’t even know there was.
I have 130k ish and its only $60 so I might just do it.
I wonder if I can order the PAG oil from Honda.
Yea Eric is the one who made me think of doing the receiver drier.
Bubble flare tool for brake lines.
Not really a tool, but I also bought a service cart from Harbor Freight its the red one with the 3 trays high.
I believe they are the same as OEM speaker connectors. The 2 pin connector to jump for codes your talking about?
I have a set from gear wrench as well. I beat the shit out of them, I put pipes on them and do the double wrench trick all the time. These things are tough. Well worth the money.
If the clutch is pressed in wouldn’t the input shaft bearing be the problem and not the throw out bearing?
Is it me or does Scotty ALWAYS go under the cars with just a jack. I am surprised I am the only one who noticed. Hes very informative, but not very thorough. He also does some “half ass” fixes in a video or two. Either way I am subbed to him and enjoy watching his videos either way. His intros do get annoying at times.
Ok, thanks. I know some scanners go as far as even allowing you to turn on and off certain circuits and what not. And some probably that I don’t even know about.
I just want an alternative than going to autozone to get my code read. So I can read it at home. (Even though its free at autozone) saves the drive.
What do you mean will not aid in the diagnosis? I don’t mind if it doesn’t give me an actual description if that is what you mean?
I browsed the forum a bit, and many guys are asking about some pretty high end snap on stuff. I am not looking for anything near that. I am just a backyard guy trying to maintain my own vehicle. If you have a thread that you think may interest me I am all ears. (Or eyes)